Baron - Mr Red offers a detailed look at the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508, a 'small crown' model often overshadowed by its 'Big Crown' counterparts. This article delves into the unique characteristics and historical context that make the 5508 a compelling vintage reference for collectors. He highlights its short production run and the distinctive glossy dials that define its era.
I am posting this thread as I know, soon, Nicolas will have completed his 5508 by getting the correct insert. After many years.....indeed. In fact, it is in any case time to take another look at this non crown guard Submariner - a watch that so often gets overlooked in comparison to the Big Crowns and subsequent crown guard versions. I am in a lucky position in having found what I consider to be as nice a 5508 as I am inclined to find. Well, lets put it this way, next to Nicolas's 5508, I think we both feel indifferent as to which we would own.....both having their clear plus points.
First things first, lets have a look at the watch in action....what is it that provides the attraction of this watch?
Well, firstly lets start with the era of production.....1957-1961. Although the watch continued to appear for sale for many years after 1961, the production run was in fact quite short. Over this production run, the 5508 was produced using the Caliber 1530 and as can be seen from the picture above, with a glossy dial. Collectors have come to truly appreciate the attraction of the 1950s and 1960s glossy dials. They exude a richness which is hard to describe. More often than not, a gloss dial will have a flaw. Maybe it will be scratches around the centre where the hands revolve, or plausibly the lume will be imperfect. Sometimes, the mirror-like effect of the gloss has lost its lustre. There can many factors that affect the dial, for sure. In my view, Nicolas's 5508 has the most mirror-like finish of any 5508 I have seen. Mine is close to his, but not quite as brilliant. To my mind, having this gloss finish on a watch that is over 50 years old is one of its biggest positives. It really differentiates it....it has that overt vintage look but with a brilliant gloss dial finish......very sexy.
Now onto another factor that makes the watch interesting. 1957-1961....its an era that is beset with uncertainty for Rolex insofar as the period is one where the composition of the lume came under intense scrutiny. Radium was used, but after international law shifted, it became necessary to use another radioactive material. For a very brief period, and only on a very small batch of watches, Strontium was used. This was quickly changed. Tritium was brought into use. Just how quickly and how comprehensively this switch to tritium occurred is ALWAYS hotly debated amongst Rolex collectors. The use of special signifiers on the dial have been argued to point towards evidence of a switch having been made. For example, some argue that the appearance of an "underline" beneath the word "Submariner" was indicative of the fact that Rolex had changed the dial from one with Radium to the safer Tritium. Similarly, the "exclamation dot" right below the "6" is similarly argued to represent this switch. The honest answer is that nobody knows for certain. Some watches have underlines. Some have exclamation points. Some have nothing. I will also say that it is entirely possible that a dial has an exclamation point (indicating a switch to Tritium) yet STILL has Radium on the lume.....Rolex could be lazy and just not have bothered to switch, it being far easier (and cheaper) just to stick a small dot under the 6! (Picture is not of my watch)
But in the way that is quite uniquely Rolex, the uncertainty and lack of clarity about the historical backdrop adds to the romance and mystery.
The 5508 is also distinctly smaller than other Submariners, both in depth and width. Its smaller size creates a feel more of charm than power. The 6200, 5510 and 6538 Big Crowns are overtly powerful watches. I am not saying that these Big Crowns lack poise, but the small crown variants like the 5508 definitely seem to exude more refinement. The case of the 5508 is most definitely another, then, of its attractions. I love the case on my 5508. It is so incredibly crisp for a watch that is so old.
And on this shot above one also sees another of the little things that make the watch so attractive....the + crown. So often, the crown carries the - sign. It is not such a big deal, really, just nice to see these quirks.
I appreciate that there are many who adore these small crown Submariners. Yet, over the years, they have just not received the clamour that has been aroused by the Big Crowns. In fact, if one compares them against the early gilt crownguards of 5512 and 5513, collectors have tended to much prefer the latter. I have a small theory on why this may be the case. It is a theory with a twofold answer.
1) Pre-crownguard, one compares the 5508 with the 6538 and 6200. Small crown versus Big. Against the competition, it is truly hard to see how the small crown can win. The 6538 has the James Bond theme going for it, whilst the 6200 is the very first Big Crown (and plausibly the first Submariner on the Rolex design block) with the 3-6-9 Explorer dial. In this context, the small crown will always be the Boxter competing against the 911.
2) When Rolex designed the crownguard, it unwittingly came developed a design feature that would make its watches iconic. Yep, those crownguards are a big part of the Rolex DNA that have made Rolex an icon. Would you rather own the very first Submariner with crownguards, the 5512, or the 5508? Well, both came with glossy dials, but one has that unique Rolex DNA, and with it the associated power and strength of a Submariner. If you boil it down, when someone buys a Submariner, are they looking for power and strength or are they looking for poise and charm? The 5508 has a sporty look, for sure, but power and strength are to be found more overtly in other Submariners.
In many ways, however, it is wrong to compare the 5508 with either the Big Crowns or the Crownguard Submariners. One is comparing apples with pears. The watches are not really comparable. Rather, one should look at the 5508 as a watch that offers quite unique features for a Rolex...it is that individuality and how that brings something different to the vintage table that should be appreciated with this watch. Its sporty yet has that ability to exude charm and poise. It could easily look stunning at a black tie event....could a 5512 really do that so well?
This message has been edited by Baron on 2014-11-17 06:00:27 This message has been edited by Baron on 2014-12-01 02:05:25
About the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1530
The Rolex Reference 1530 is notable for its distinctive case design, which predates and shares characteristics with the Oysterquartz models, yet houses a mechanical movement. This reference represents a transitional period in Rolex design, offering a unique aesthetic that sets it apart from the more traditional Oyster Perpetual cases of its era. It was produced in limited quantities, contributing to its specialized appeal among collectors. The integration of a mechanical caliber within this angular case profile provides a different wearing experience compared to its more common contemporaries.
This reference features a stainless steel case measuring 36 mm in diameter, a departure from the typical round cases. It is fitted with an acrylic crystal and a smooth bezel. The watch is powered by the automatic Rolex Caliber 1570, a robust and reliable movement known for its precision. This movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours and includes a date complication, visible through an aperture on the dial. The water resistance is rated at 100 meters, consistent with Rolex's Oyster case standards.
For collectors, the Reference 1530 is significant due to its unusual case architecture and its mechanical heart, making it a precursor to the Oysterquartz line. It appeals to those interested in the evolution of Rolex design and production anomalies. Its scarcity and unique design language differentiate it from other Oyster Perpetual models, positioning it as a distinct piece within the brand's history. The silver dial and Oyster bracelet complete its integrated design.
Specifications
Caliber
1570
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
36 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
100m
Crystal
Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508
The Rolex Submariner reference 5508 represents the No Date series within the Submariner model range. Produced from 1958 to 1962, this reference is distinguished by its black dial that has developed spider patina over time.
The 5508 features a 37mm stainless steel case fitted with an acrylic crystal and rotating bezel. Water resistance is rated to 200 meters. The automatic Cal. 1530 movement provides 42-48 hours of power reserve. The watch is paired with a steel bracelet.
This reference appeals to collectors focused on vintage Submariner variants from the late 1950s and early 1960s production period. The spider patina dial condition represents a specific aging characteristic that develops over decades. Within the No Date Submariner lineup, the 5508 occupies the position of a four-year production run reference with the Cal. 1530 movement.
Specifications
Caliber
Cal. 1530
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
37 mm
Dial
Black with spider patina
Water Resist.
200m
Crystal
Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5510
The Submariner reference 5510 is a notable example within the early production of the model line, distinguished by its "Big Crown" design. This reference was produced for a very short period, making it one of the rarer variants. It represents a transitional phase in the Submariner's development, bridging earlier designs with later, more standardized configurations. Its aesthetic aligns with the functional tool watch philosophy prevalent at the time of its introduction.
The case of the reference 5510 is constructed from stainless steel, featuring a diameter characteristic of its era. It houses an automatic movement, specifically the Caliber 1530, which provides reliable timekeeping. The crystal protecting the dial is made of acrylic, a common material for watches of this period, contributing to its period-correct appearance. The water resistance rating was a significant feature for the model at its release.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in the foundational period of the Submariner. Its limited production run and specific design elements, particularly the oversized winding crown, contribute to its desirability. The 5510 is considered a key reference for understanding the evolution of the Submariner series, showcasing the design language and technical specifications that preceded subsequent iterations.
Specifications
Caliber
Cal. 1530
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
38mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
200m
Crystal
Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512
Rolex Submariner Reference 5512
The Submariner reference 5512 represents Rolex's no-date variant within the Submariner series. Distinguished by its clean dial layout without date complication, this reference was produced from 1962 to 1989, spanning nearly three decades of manufacturing.
The 40mm stainless steel case houses either caliber 1560 or 1570 automatic movements, providing 42-48 hours of power reserve. The watch features a black dial, unidirectional rotating bezel with aluminum insert, and acrylic crystal. Water resistance extends to 200 meters, with the watch fitted to a stainless steel bracelet.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking the fundamental Submariner aesthetic without date functionality. The extended production period and dual caliber usage create multiple variations within the 5512 designation. The no-date configuration offers symmetrical dial proportions that attract purists within the collecting community.
Specifications
Caliber
1560/1570
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
40 mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
200m
Crystal
Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 is a specific iteration within the Submariner model line. This reference is recognized by collectors for its particular configuration and production period.
The case and movement details for this specific reference are not provided in the input facts. Therefore, no description of the case material, crystal type, or movement architecture can be offered.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in the Submariner line. Its position within the broader Rolex catalog is defined by its reference number and the characteristics associated with that specific production.
Specifications
Caliber
Rolex Caliber 1520 / 1530
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
40mm
Dial
Black (Gilt or Matte)
Water Resist.
200m
Crystal
Acrylic
Key Points from the Discussion
The Submariner 5508, a 'small crown' reference, is often undervalued compared to the 5512/5513, despite potentially being rarer due to its shorter production period (1957-1961).
The 'plus sign' on the crown of the author's 5508 is a rare and correct detail, indicating attention to authenticity.
The car analogy comparing the 5508 to a Boxster and Big Crowns to a 911 is debated, with some arguing that small crowns represent the original Rolex Submariner DNA (e.g., 6204, 6205) and should not be considered lesser.
A collector shares their recent acquisition of a 5508 from 1959 with a perfect glossy gilt mirror dial and an 'Exclamation Point', noting the ongoing debate about the meaning of such dial markings.
The author clarifies that while the 6200 was conceived as the first Submariner design, the 6204 was the first released to the public, establishing the small crown as the initial public perception of the Submariner's DNA.
The exact end of 5508 production is debated, with reference books suggesting 1961, but serial numbers appearing up to 1962 or 1963, possibly indicating watches remained on sale after production ceased.
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The Discussion
DR
dr.kol
Nov 17, 2014
Thank you Joe for a fantastic post.
I have also made my part today: I bought a (too expensive) vintage Rolex Submariner that I expect to get on Thursday. In fact I expect to get two Submariners on Thursday. You guys with your posts and nice photos drive me nuts! Best, Kari
BA
Baron - Mr Red
Nov 17, 2014
A vintage Rolex virgin no longer.....
.......it is all pleasure from her onwards!
AM
amanico
Nov 17, 2014
Aaah, finally! ;) [nt]
AM
amanico
Nov 17, 2014
Superb, really superb article, Joe.
It is a fact that the 5508 is not winning the comparison with the 5512 / 13, at least for the last years... And I never got why the Small Crowns are less appreciated than the 5512 / 13. Since my interest for your article. I totally agree with you that the Small Crowns are perceived as a kind of Boxter, and that the Big Crowns are the 911.... Even though it is hard to be sure that the small crown was not born before the big crown... In that case, it may be the 911. ;) If we compare the prodcution
BA
Baron - Mr Red
Nov 17, 2014
5508 years of production......
.......my answer to your question is that I am not sure. Certainly, a number of reference books suggest 1961......however, i have seen so many cases with serial numbers that suggest 1962 and even 1963....... ....of course, it is plausible that actual production finished yet the watches remained on sale for many years. 1961 according to many reference books....1962/3 according to serial numbers. Where is the Italian when you need him?
AM
amanico
Nov 17, 2014
I saw some case back bearing 1962. None later. But at least 1962. Marcello? [nt]
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