Rolex Submariner 5508 No Crown-Guard Acquisition
Vintage

Rolex Submariner 5508 No Crown-Guard Acquisition

By amanico · Dec 20, 2009 · 60 replies
amanico
WPS member · Rolex forum
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Amanico's acquisition of a Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 provides a fascinating look into the challenges and triumphs of vintage watch collecting. His detailed account of finding a "no crown-guard" Submariner with an exceptionally preserved dial offers valuable insights for enthusiasts navigating the complexities of authenticity and condition in the vintage market. This post highlights the enduring appeal of early Rolex dive watches and the meticulous criteria collectors apply.

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Here it is, my friends.

It's been a long time I fell under the charm on a Sub without crownguards, and each time I saw one, and tested it, there was something wrong, like a redone dial or a service dial ( on all the 6538 I saw, and on some of the 5508 which crossed my way ).

In some cases, the dial was good, but too " tired ", I mean, in a poor condition, or it was the case which wasn't nice...

There was always a problem which made me pass my way, till...two weeks ago.

While visiting with some firends my Vintage Dealer, I saw this one:



It was love at first sight!

On this 5508, one thing is really amazing: The condition of the dial.

This watch was bought by my dealer some 10 years ago from a guy who worked at Rolex, and which never ( or almost ) wore it.

Some 5 years ago, he sold it to someone I know, who wore it a bit, but really just a bit...

So, as you can and will see, the condition of the case is great, and the dial is quite immaculate.

As the watch was kept for a long time in a safe, it didn't often see the light, and didn't have the time to turn in a yellowish brown color.

Hence these green and perfect indexes.





The white outlines are very subtle, and the green / grey / olive indexes ( don't really know how to correctly describe them ) are still glowing in the dark, loosing their luminosity in a few hours.

The hands were obviously repainted, but in the same color than the indexes.

The other thing which doesn't look correct for this watch is the insert of the bezel, and maybe the bezel itself, but I can always hunt one...

What do you, the experts, think?



The laquered gilt dial gives an uncomparable depth to the watch, and a superb allure.

I'm literally mesmerized by the contrast with the indexes, and the nice silver and gold writings and minutes indexes.

You really don't need to have a complicated dial to make a superb watch!

Another superb detail is the lack of crownguards, which is nowadays unusual for any modern Submariner.



As we speak of lack of crownguards, I hesitated a long time ( certainly a too long time, if I judge by the crazy value reached by these models ) between a 6538 and a 5508 / 6536, or, to be more concrete, between a small crown and a big crown.

The 6538 Big Crown



The 6538 is a stunning watch, and I consider it as a Grail for a Vintage Diving watch collection, as well as the Panerai 3646 or 6152, or a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Milspec.

Here, with a close cousin, an early Fifty Fathoms.



Do you notice the familiar rectangular and round indexes, on both of these watches?

It has an impressive look, due to its thicker case and bigger crown.

It gains in strength without loosing in elegance, which is awesome, and rare.

So, to be honest, the 6538 has been my first choice, but as I said above, finding one with the correct dial is nearly impossible, or at least very difficult, and once you found it, the price reaches stratospheric heights...

But a very nice 5508 is all except a second choice, if it comes with a superb and rare dial as on this one, so no regrets, only love!

smile

The thinner case is an example of elegance for a Diving watch, IMO.

Compared to its competitors of the moment, the Rolex Sub was the only one to offer a screw in crown, which was a real plus, regarding the water resistance.

The case hides a movement which can be considered as a tractor, reliable in any circumstances, and very accurate The 1530.

Here, the screw in case back, with the usual writings, and some manual indications which show that the watch was serviced in 2005, as well as the production year ( 3rd Quartal 1959 ):





Once the case back removed, a view on the Cal 1530:





On mine, as you can see, there is no butterfly rotor, but it doesn't seem to be a problem, as, AFAIK, both were admissible on this model.

Some macros of the movement:





Another nice surprise is that the watch came with a rivetted bracelet in impeccable condition.



I love a lot the applied crown on the buckle, which has more charm than the new ones.

Inside the folding buckle, the date...I / 69...Which matches with the date inside the case back:



The Wrist Shot test is convincing...





The size of the watch ( 38 mm ) is perfect, and the presence on the wrist is impressive.

The green / grey touch of the indexes is something uncommon on a Vintage Watch, and adds to the charm and the Beauty of this timekeeper.

I kept the best picture for the end, as I really had the feeling to get it directly from the shop, 50 years ago.



A kind of delicious journey into Time...

Best to All,

Nicolas This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2009-12-21 01:07:42 This message has been edited by amanico on 2009-12-23 21:25:12

About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508

The Rolex Submariner reference 5508 represents the No Date series within the Submariner model range. Produced from 1958 to 1962, this reference is distinguished by its black dial that has developed spider patina over time.

The 5508 features a 37mm stainless steel case fitted with an acrylic crystal and rotating bezel. Water resistance is rated to 200 meters. The automatic Cal. 1530 movement provides 42-48 hours of power reserve. The watch is paired with a steel bracelet.

This reference appeals to collectors focused on vintage Submariner variants from the late 1950s and early 1960s production period. The spider patina dial condition represents a specific aging characteristic that develops over decades. Within the No Date Submariner lineup, the 5508 occupies the position of a four-year production run reference with the Cal. 1530 movement.

Specifications

Caliber
Cal. 1530
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
37 mm
Dial
Black with spider patina
Water Resist.
200m
Crystal
Acrylic

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The Discussion
HA
hans_jorgen_1968
Dec 20, 2009

Hi Nocolas Finally.....! What a nice and almost perfect Christmas gift to yourself. That is true a rare catch you have made here. And many thanks for taking us to the journey and presenting these beautiful pictures. I especially like the calibre pictures and the last picture. Anyway, I will start saving now ;-) BR Hans This message has been edited by hans_jorgen_1968 on 2009-12-20 03:13:14

GA
gazoz
Dec 20, 2009

and it is in pristine condition it looks amazing congrats to you and if you get bored or tired of it please keep me in mind

KB
kbc.2222
Dec 20, 2009

A early BIG Christmas present to u self :o) Really great catch my friend...Big Congrats... Best Chung

RY
Ryan5446
Dec 20, 2009

What a great watch and what a good find. Your patience has been rewarded. Something that becomes more and more important in vintage collecting these days. Thanks for the great write up and congratulations on a great find my friend. Cheers steven

BI
bimbeano
Dec 20, 2009

A superb catch, and next time you first put a post before you show it to some of us in the flesh .... it's better to have a heart-attack at home than in Paris ! Can you do a shot on a snowy Parisien roof for me please ? Just make sure it doesn't slide down ... . Cheerio El Bimbo

JO
joeyza
Dec 20, 2009

Simple breathtaking. There really aren't words that can do it justice. Congrats and great pics too!

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