Rolex Submariner 5508 No Crown-Guard Acquisition
Vintage

Rolex Submariner 5508 No Crown-Guard Acquisition

By amanico · Dec 20, 2009 · 60 replies
amanico
WPS member · Rolex forum
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Amanico's acquisition of a Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 provides a fascinating look into the challenges and triumphs of vintage watch collecting. His detailed account of finding a "no crown-guard" Submariner with an exceptionally preserved dial offers valuable insights for enthusiasts navigating the complexities of authenticity and condition in the vintage market. This post highlights the enduring appeal of early Rolex dive watches and the meticulous criteria collectors apply.

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Here it is, my friends.

It's been a long time I fell under the charm on a Sub without crownguards, and each time I saw one, and tested it, there was something wrong, like a redone dial or a service dial ( on all the 6538 I saw, and on some of the 5508 which crossed my way ).

In some cases, the dial was good, but too " tired ", I mean, in a poor condition, or it was the case which wasn't nice...

There was always a problem which made me pass my way, till...two weeks ago.

While visiting with some firends my Vintage Dealer, I saw this one:



It was love at first sight!

On this 5508, one thing is really amazing: The condition of the dial.

This watch was bought by my dealer some 10 years ago from a guy who worked at Rolex, and which never ( or almost ) wore it.

Some 5 years ago, he sold it to someone I know, who wore it a bit, but really just a bit...

So, as you can and will see, the condition of the case is great, and the dial is quite immaculate.

As the watch was kept for a long time in a safe, it didn't often see the light, and didn't have the time to turn in a yellowish brown color.

Hence these green and perfect indexes.





The white outlines are very subtle, and the green / grey / olive indexes ( don't really know how to correctly describe them ) are still glowing in the dark, loosing their luminosity in a few hours.

The hands were obviously repainted, but in the same color than the indexes.

The other thing which doesn't look correct for this watch is the insert of the bezel, and maybe the bezel itself, but I can always hunt one...

What do you, the experts, think?



The laquered gilt dial gives an uncomparable depth to the watch, and a superb allure.

I'm literally mesmerized by the contrast with the indexes, and the nice silver and gold writings and minutes indexes.

You really don't need to have a complicated dial to make a superb watch!

Another superb detail is the lack of crownguards, which is nowadays unusual for any modern Submariner.



As we speak of lack of crownguards, I hesitated a long time ( certainly a too long time, if I judge by the crazy value reached by these models ) between a 6538 and a 5508 / 6536, or, to be more concrete, between a small crown and a big crown.

The 6538 Big Crown



The 6538 is a stunning watch, and I consider it as a Grail for a Vintage Diving watch collection, as well as the Panerai 3646 or 6152, or a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Milspec.

Here, with a close cousin, an early Fifty Fathoms.



Do you notice the familiar rectangular and round indexes, on both of these watches?

It has an impressive look, due to its thicker case and bigger crown.

It gains in strength without loosing in elegance, which is awesome, and rare.

So, to be honest, the 6538 has been my first choice, but as I said above, finding one with the correct dial is nearly impossible, or at least very difficult, and once you found it, the price reaches stratospheric heights...

But a very nice 5508 is all except a second choice, if it comes with a superb and rare dial as on this one, so no regrets, only love!

smile

The thinner case is an example of elegance for a Diving watch, IMO.

Compared to its competitors of the moment, the Rolex Sub was the only one to offer a screw in crown, which was a real plus, regarding the water resistance.

The case hides a movement which can be considered as a tractor, reliable in any circumstances, and very accurate The 1530.

Here, the screw in case back, with the usual writings, and some manual indications which show that the watch was serviced in 2005, as well as the production year ( 3rd Quartal 1959 ):





Once the case back removed, a view on the Cal 1530:





On mine, as you can see, there is no butterfly rotor, but it doesn't seem to be a problem, as, AFAIK, both were admissible on this model.

Some macros of the movement:





Another nice surprise is that the watch came with a rivetted bracelet in impeccable condition.



I love a lot the applied crown on the buckle, which has more charm than the new ones.

Inside the folding buckle, the date...I / 69...Which matches with the date inside the case back:



The Wrist Shot test is convincing...





The size of the watch ( 38 mm ) is perfect, and the presence on the wrist is impressive.

The green / grey touch of the indexes is something uncommon on a Vintage Watch, and adds to the charm and the Beauty of this timekeeper.

I kept the best picture for the end, as I really had the feeling to get it directly from the shop, 50 years ago.



A kind of delicious journey into Time...

Best to All,

Nicolas This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2009-12-21 01:07:42 This message has been edited by amanico on 2009-12-23 21:25:12

About the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1530

The Rolex Reference 1530 is notable for its distinctive case design, which predates and shares characteristics with the Oysterquartz models, yet houses a mechanical movement. This reference represents a transitional period in Rolex design, offering a unique aesthetic that sets it apart from the more traditional Oyster Perpetual cases of its era. It was produced in limited quantities, contributing to its specialized appeal among collectors. The integration of a mechanical caliber within this angular case profile provides a different wearing experience compared to its more common contemporaries.

This reference features a stainless steel case measuring 36 mm in diameter, a departure from the typical round cases. It is fitted with an acrylic crystal and a smooth bezel. The watch is powered by the automatic Rolex Caliber 1570, a robust and reliable movement known for its precision. This movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours and includes a date complication, visible through an aperture on the dial. The water resistance is rated at 100 meters, consistent with Rolex's Oyster case standards.

For collectors, the Reference 1530 is significant due to its unusual case architecture and its mechanical heart, making it a precursor to the Oysterquartz line. It appeals to those interested in the evolution of Rolex design and production anomalies. Its scarcity and unique design language differentiate it from other Oyster Perpetual models, positioning it as a distinct piece within the brand's history. The silver dial and Oyster bracelet complete its integrated design.

Specifications

Caliber
1570
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
36 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
100m
Crystal
Acrylic

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The Discussion
HA
hans_jorgen_1968
Dec 20, 2009
I am speechless

Hi Nocolas Finally.....! What a nice and almost perfect Christmas gift to yourself. That is true a rare catch you have made here. And many thanks for taking us to the journey and presenting these beautiful pictures. I especially like the calibre pictures and the last picture. Anyway, I will start saving now ;-) BR Hans This message has been edited by hans_jorgen_1968 on 2009-12-20 03:13:14

AM
amanico
Dec 21, 2009
I was even doubting to get one, Hans

But this one fell at the right moment, indeed. You know this feeling, when you know that it is the good one for you. That's exactly what happened for my 1655, now for this gorgeous 5508. I will calm down a bit, and then go back to the hunt on another nice piece... Very best, and thanks for your enthusiasm, my friend. Nicolas

HA
hans_jorgen_1968
Dec 21, 2009
The hunt is on

Hi my French Friend ;-) Someone on this forum uses the phrase "Good Hunting". Lets call him Bill. I believe that is true. The hunt is also a big and interesting part, and makes the catch, when and if it comes even better. ...now back to the search of some of those Rolexes, eh back to work.. ;-) BR Hans P.S. May the hunt be with you ;-) P.P.S Whats next up?

AM
amanico
Dec 21, 2009
Still have 3 Vintage Rolex to lock

The 1016, the 1675 or 6542, and the 16 550 Explo II Transitionnal... The 6542 is damn hard to find in good condition and authentic, and a very nice, sublime 1675 and 1016 are also not that easy to catch. But it is part of the pleasure, and an important part! Best, my friend. Nicolas

HA
hans_jorgen_1968
Dec 21, 2009
Thats "explore" the hunt..

... But at the end of the day (or when we retire) will we have a damn nice collection (with some luck...). But must be in good condition and original. Othwerwise no interest. BR Hans This message has been edited by hans_jorgen_1968 on 2009-12-21 07:12:08

GA
gazoz
Dec 20, 2009
Wow!!! what a catch Nicolas

and it is in pristine condition it looks amazing congrats to you and if you get bored or tired of it please keep me in mind

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