Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Sub Dial Variations
Vintage

Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Sub Dial Variations

By Philipps · Dec 16, 2008 · 17 replies
Philipps
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Philipps, a dedicated collector, shares his extensive research on the Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 "Red Sub" from 2008. His work highlights the subtle yet crucial dial variations that distinguish different production batches, offering invaluable insights for both new and seasoned vintage Rolex enthusiasts. This detailed analysis helps illuminate the complexities of early Red Sub dials, particularly the 'Meter First' versions.

From the research i did last 2-3 years, i now know that the earliest Redsubs are made with 2.1xx.xxx serial and with early '69 caseback stamp.
My addition to tropical dials brought me to the meter first serie 1680's because we see that in serveral early batches the black dials nicely faded into a tropical brown
[when worn in the right condition & off course never serviced, because rolex did change these dails in earlier days for free into a new black one ]
After seeing - buying many redsub's i discovered that there are 3 differnt 'Meter First' versions instead of the till then known 2 versions.

here the 3 types side by side....








First in line was the one with the long F that goes over the T from FT starting with the 2.1xx serial, it has closed 6's and the red paint was printed on top of the white submariner.
I managed to find a Proto type version where the minuterie hasn't been printed on the dial,
we see the T Swiss <25 print at 6 o'clock but no rest of the paint or even the no pressure print on the surface of the dial
and also first one that has been discovered in an 'original' matching case to the dial: 2,1xx serial

Here a big scan to see all details clearly...






with tropic 39 i like it the most...





Second & third version where delivered at the same time, starting with 2.2xx serial. Diffence between the 2 is the print and the fact that one has the red submariner directly printed on the dial and the other not...



Here a 2,29x.xxx Brown where the red is printed direclty...






and here a 2,38x.xxx serial with red over white print and thin font...






2 & 3 version Meter First side by side; you see the difference, it's small but evident, red directly and red over white print....


Here a red directly that has been service by Rolex NY and got a extreme relume ;- )




Here a red directly with great looking original patina indexes...




Here a scary FAKE meter first dial....focus on the last 2 lines on the dial and you see it's NOT ok


If you don't see the wrong details, compare it with this dial and you see the differences...


For me imho the change from meter first to feet first came the line when they changed from meter first to feet first is probably 2.421.8xxx I come to this conclusion because i havea 2.421.7xx complete with B+P and i saw a feet first, open 6's with serial 2.421.9xx







Some rumour are told that Rolex decided to change the Meter - feet position because the export to US was gettibng strong. Or maybe because they changed the dialmaker, i don't know what made them change their mind but once it was printed differently we don't see the colour of the dial change anymore and it made the meter first Redsub to a very rare sportversion only being produced for a short experimental time...

Here a nice and komplete Feet First with 3.1 million serial with slightly open 6's...










and last one is like we started, with closed 6's but now with Feet First...


Show yours!!!!

regards Philipp This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2008-12-16 06:50:58 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-12-25 15:12:01

About the Rolex Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680

The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.

This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.

For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.

Specifications

Caliber
Cal.1575
Case
steel
Diameter
40mm
Dial
black
Water Resist.
200m
Crystal
Acrylic (Plexiglas)

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
DR
DrStrong
Dec 16, 2008

yes these watches are really sexy...here my two ex-1680's to share:

MI
michaelmcc
Dec 16, 2008

love those red subs. m " target="_blank"> " border="0" alt="Photobucket">

PH
Philipps
Dec 16, 2008

Best to you!! Enjoy, rgrds.P

MI
michaelmcc
Dec 16, 2008

And I really appreciate them. I wear when I want to impress my nato loving friends M.

MT
MTF
Dec 17, 2008

Phillips, Thank you for your detailed and meticulous research report. For a newbie and even experienced collectors, the many minor variants of dial is worrisome. Is every variant shown officially supplied to Rolex? If so, that means that any faker can claim: "Oh - that's just another vintage variant!" Regards, MTF

AM
amanico
Dec 18, 2008

I'd even say...Anthology! Informative, and what about these pics??? You really kill me with these brown Red Subs! Here my small attempt to your greatissime post: Best. Nicolas

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