Vintage
DrStrong's in-depth review of the 18k Rolex Submariner ref. 1680/8 offers a fascinating look into a vintage anomaly: a solid gold tool watch. His personal quest for this specific reference highlights the unique appeal of its matte black dial, high plexi, and distinctive gold hue, setting it apart from later gold sports models. This article delves into why this particular reference continues to captivate collectors, exploring its historical context and unique aesthetic features.
I have been hunting a Submariner 1680/8 for quite a long time, as I have always been fascinated by the concept of a vintage toolwatch made of solid gold: It is a quite common concept today, but back in the 1960's only a twisted mind could imagine to produce a full gold version of the rugged 200m waterproof Submariner !
A couple of years ago, I had a close reference, a full gold GMT Master ref. 1675/8. But to my eyes, the case of this watch was missing a little bit of thickness and the brown dial was not showing enough contrast with the gold color of the case.
Now I have found my perfect 18k vintage Rolex with1680/8 !
To me, the most desirable features of this Submariner – especially compared to the later full gold sports models of the sapphire era – are the matte black dial, the high plexi and the very “warm” color of the gold: something between yellow and rose gold. I find less charm in the contemporary gold Rolex watches that are made of more “yellow” gold and carry black glossy dials.
The reference 1680/8 (/8 is the Rolex code for yellow gold, but in fact the case is stamped “1680” like the steel version) was produced between 1969 and 1978, with either a black or blue dial and a color matching bezel inlay.
Here’s the blue dial model on a leather strap (Photo: Ravagnani):
The dial of the Gold Submariner is quite different from the one fitted in the steel model, as the text is printed in gold and the hour indexes are raised with a very small tritium spot in the middle: they are the famous "nipple" indexes ;-) The minute markers are also longer than on the usual Rolex dials and the Rolex logo is also made of solid yellow gold.
The movement used in the watch is he same as in the steel model: the classic Rolex self winding cal. 1575 with the date feature.
The winding crown is the usual Submariner 7mm triplock crown, but it is of course in gold. Concerning the plexi, it has the famous “cyclop” magnifying lens; its height give a lot of character and vintage charm to the watch:
In the Rolex catalog, the watch was available either on a leather strap with a gold tang buckle, or on a heavy solid 18k Oyster bracelet reference 9290 with a brushed/polished finish. Here’s the impressive Oyster bracelet:
Like the steel version, this bracelet has diver extension hidden in the clasp in order to be worn over a wet suit ! (Photo: A. Shear)
Here’s a rare version of the watch with Oman logo dial (Photo: Ravagnani)
And the description of the watch in the 1970’s Submariner booklet:
The original ad for the 1680/8 is one of my favourite, it has a sense of humor that you don’t see often in these kind of ads (Photo: Jake’s Rolex World):
Finally, here’s one last picture to show you the beauty of this watch !
This message has been edited by DrStrong on 2010-06-08
The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.
This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.
For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.
Its always great when you eventually find something you have craved. You are right....to seek a Sub in solid gold requires a sort of twisted mind! I am not sure its any different today than 30-40 years ago. Subs are quirky beasts at the best of times. But to have one in solid gold....oh yeah, you are now a firm member of the twisted club. Confirming this view is, without doubt, those pink flip-flops sandals! Classy. Congratulations on this watch. Hope to see it in the flesh in a week or two.
Marine Blue WITHOUT 'soigne' effect on surface, different typo and a SWISS that doesn't go though the 30 minute dash we normally see... ;-)
Strong - VERY strong. Congrats Dr.Strong!
Massive, black and gold. A pure beast on the wrist, but still wearable by its size. This is just WOW and definitely not for me because too much character. Enjoy it and thanks for this post cheers Francois
This color combo is really nice. The black dial with the splash of gold hands and markers IMo keeps the sportiness and doesn't scream a chunk of gold. So have you taking this sub out diving yet? -MW
on getting a watch that you really wanted.... Although a sub, I guess that you are not going to dive with it... Unless it was recently serviced by Rolex...... Very interesting matte dial..... what year is the watch? A few months ago a saw a vintage gold watch (different model though) and thinking about it, in retrospective, you are right about the quality and the feel of the bracelet.... Congratulations again Cheers
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