A Visit to the Godfather: Vintage Rolex in Provence

The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, often recognized by its distinctive orange 24-hour hand, was introduced as a tool watch for speleologists and polar explorers. It offered enhanced legibility in low-light conditions and a fixed 24-hour bezel to distinguish between AM and PM in environments where day and night cycles are obscured. This model stands apart from its GMT-Master sibling by focusing on a specific utility rather than multiple time zones, making it a specialized instrument within the Rolex professional line.

This reference features a 39 mm stainless steel case, housing the automatic Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. A robust acrylic crystal protects the black dial, which is characterized by its luminous hour markers and the prominent orange 24-hour hand. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters, suitable for its intended robust use.

Collectors value the 1655 for its unique aesthetic and its position as the original Explorer II. Its fixed bezel and distinctive hand set differentiate it from later Explorer II iterations and other Rolex sports models. The reference appeals to those who appreciate purpose-built watches and the early design language of Rolex's professional series, representing a specific chapter in the brand's history.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 1665 is a significant model within the brand's professional tool watch lineage, distinguished by its enhanced water resistance compared to contemporary Submariner models. This reference was developed to meet the demands of professional saturation divers, featuring a helium escape valve (HEV) integrated into the case side, a key differentiator from other Rolex dive watches of its era. It represents a period of innovation in deep-sea horology, offering a robust solution for extreme underwater environments.

This reference features a 40 mm stainless steel case, designed for durability and resistance to high pressures. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 1575, a chronometer-certified movement known for its reliability and precision, offering a power reserve of approximately 42 to 48 hours. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal, contributing to its water resistance rating of 610 meters, and typically features a black dial with luminous hour markers.

For collectors, the reference 1665 is notable for its functional design and its place in the evolution of professional dive watches. Early examples, often referred to as "Double Red Sea-Dweller" (DRSD) due to two lines of red text on the dial, are particularly sought after. Later versions feature all-white text. The presence of the helium escape valve and its robust construction make it a distinct and historically important piece for those interested in the development of specialized timekeeping instruments.