Richard Mille SIHH 2014: Fakes and Novelties

Andrew H. reports from SIHH 2014 on Richard Mille's controversial decision to ban live photography at their booth, a measure taken to combat the rising tide of sophisticated counterfeit watches. This post delves into the brand's rationale and introduces new releases, highlighting the challenges luxury watchmakers face in protecting their intellectual property.

It is a sad state of affairs in the world. And in this, I fully support Richard’s decision and hence what I am about to report.

Richard took the decision last night (Sunday) that there would be no live photos and no photos on the stand this year. I am in complete agreement. In the last few months an ever increasing number of fakes have been seen being sold on the internet and the standard of the fakes has reached a point that measures have to be taken. The problem reached a peak with the arrival in the Boutique in Paris of an ‘all-black’ skull RM052 that was a fake. It was a fake on two counts. First, no ‘all-black’ skull exists in the Richard Mille line up. There has been a gold skull/black case and a black skull/gold case, but no ‘all-black’. Second, the movement was not a true tourbillon and hence on closer inspection was obviously fake. Nonetheless, this was serious. In the words of a Richard Mille spokesperson, the case was very close to the mark.

Hence, the very mechanism by which photos can be brought to collectors and connoisseurs over the world: digital cameras and the internet, are also the mechanism by which very precise imaging can be rendered and the transmission of the high precision images across the globe. Richard has taken the decision, which makes absolute sense in my book, to stop the high-resolution photographs this year. The protection of the brand requires such measures. If you have any doubts, look at the policy of Hermes and Rolex: any fakes, if found are seized (allowable under French law), and destroyed. The distribution and potentially the manufacturer of the fakes will be sought out and prosecuted to the full extent of the law.

The dilution of the brand is a very serious matter. It affects both collectors and enthusiasts for the brand. A Richard Mille original watch should be just that. If you have spent your money on such a watch, then you want to be sure that there is not some ‘almost’ copy available. While there is pride in ownership and attainment, the uniqueness of the watch for you is an absolute. Second, someone else is ‘free-riding’ on the brand and the uniqueness in watches that Richard has built. He is protecting both collectors and enthusiasts, and the people who work for Richard Mille S.A..

From my perspective, perhaps the saddest element, and the watch I loved the most on the stand, was the fully working RM039 tourbillon. What an unbelievable watch!! Launched about two years ago before Richard had worked everything out completely, the fully finished and working watch is a marvel of mechanics. Just stunning to look at and a fully functioning aviation slide rule. It is beautiful and if I get permission to post a photo, I will do so, but without further adieu, here are this year’s runners and riders from the press kit.

RM007-01



A new version of the very popular ladies watch. This version now utilizes the in-house caliber. The inner bezel can come in a combination of materials including white ATZ ceramic or other colours; with or without diamonds. This watch now comes with a metal bracelet in precious metals.

RM019-01 Natalie Portman

Designed and made for the film star of the same name (that’s Natalie Portman), the baseplate is black rhodium plated 18K gold, with the bridges as a spider design (made from 18K white gold and diamonds). Limited edition of 20 pieces.



RM035-01

With an upgrade in the to the RM027 last year, this year it is the turn of the younger brother! The RM035 gets the NTPT carbon case treatment, with the red accents. The RM team have also gone further and tested this one out to shock tests at 5000G. I loved the RM035, and this one has added to that, so an improvement worth the effort. The picture certainly in this instance does not do the watch justice.



RM036-01 Competition G-Sensor Sebastien Loeb

Created for the rally driver Sebastien Loeb and the watch that he will be wearing in WTCC competitions and other sporting events in the coming year. A manual wind tourbillon with a 70 hour power reserve. The G-sensor can be rotated via the bezel to measure G-forces up to 6G. The case is made out of a carbon composite and titanium.



RM037 Ladies Automatic

In house movement with the larger case (over the RM007). Once again a variety of coloured ceramic and gold can be found in various editions of the watch.



RM050-01 Toubillon Chronograph G-Sensor Lotus F1 Team Romain Grosjean

A combination two complications: one from the Jean Todt special edition of last year, and the RM050 chronograph. A manual wind tourbillon chronograph, not a split second chronograph, that is both the watch for the driver and for the team (as Richard Mille is now the team sponsor). The case can either be NTPT carbon and red gold, or just NTPT carbon. Stunning watch in the metal as the red gold bridges and hands give real depth to the watch. Probably my favourite of this year’s offering from Richard Mille. A limited edition of 30 pieces.



RM051-01 Tourbillon Tiger and Dragon Michelle Yeoh.

Another version on the same watch, but with hand carved Chinese characters that comprise Michelle’s name. Limited edition of 20 pieces.



RM060-01 Flyback Chronograph Regatta

Richard Mille’s first technical watch for use in navigating the seven seas. Obviously related to the Diver’s chronograph: RM032, the RM60-01 adds navigational capabilities that can be read off the bezel scales. A neat trick that uses time related to the degrees of the compass to establish direct position (using the sun). Basically a wrist sextant. The first time I have seen this in a wrist watch. My second favourite out of the new collection.



RM061-01 Yohan Blake

For every big brother RM watch, there is a younger brother to go with it! And this time, it is the Yohan Blake. Same movement as the RM035 and RM055, but with the stylized bridges, a Zirconium compound for the case upper and lower bezels and NTPT carbon for the inner case band. The crown has protectors and the watch is built to withstand a massive 5000G shock.



RM063-01 Dizzy Hands

A watch that can produce a random time setting, and the actual time setting. When the pusher in the center of the watch is pressed, the sapphire dial rotates counter clockwise, while the hour hand rotates clockwise (both dial and hands move at different speeds). The new time has no resemblance to the actual time. Press the same button again and the watch returns to the actual time.



Sorry there are no live photos, but then a few spoil it for the many.

Andrew H

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Below are the official press pictures of the Richard Mille SIHH 2014 collection

- Anthony