Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 Travel Time Chronograph

Mark in Paris · 2014-05-17T07:05:30Z

Discover the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 Travel Time Chronograph. Mark in Paris reviews its clever dual time zone complication and design evolution.

Mark in Paris

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

20 replies12703 views4 photos

Mark in Paris shares his evolving perspective on the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5990, a Travel Time chronograph he initially underestimated. His detailed account, informed by a presentation from Patek's chief watchmaker, highlights the ingenious engineering behind its dual time zone complication. This article offers valuable insights into the practical benefits and design considerations of this complex Nautilus reference, particularly its user-friendly and robust travel time mechanism.

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Hi everyone,

You know I like the Nautilus line. I've been invited in Paris this week to discover the 2014 novelties and, hence, the new Nautilus 5990.

From the pictures of the Basel fair, I still love the line of course: I like the dial layout and its 2-tone color that matches perfectly with steel even if, on the other, hand I may find the two new pushers at 9 o'clock quite a strong modification as regards to the Nautilus usual hinge design on this side. This evolution, as you understand, is due to the 5990's new complication.

This feeling has improved once more as I could handle the watch the other night.

You already know that the 5990 is the 5164 Aquanaut Travel Time's complication added to a 324 caliber chronograph in a Nautilus case.

The Aquanaut is not my favorite Patek, however I think I missed a very important thing: how interesting and clever is this travel time complication.

The chief watchmaker of Patek was here to explain how it works.

Firstly and most important, the hour hand is able to go forward or backward (with the pushers at 9 o'clock) and the date will then be following the hour hand passing midnight, hence forward and backward too. This is a major design and this is what makes this Patek complication so special.

Secondly, the pushers at 9 o'clock can't be activated accidentally together. A little piece, linked to one button, is preventing to do so by disengaging a lever that activates the right gear.

Thirdly, a cam integrated to the hour wheel is preventing the date to be manually changed around midnight.

This a very interesting complication in which many clever and simple (reliable) ideas prevent the owner to make the wrong move.

This travel time is indeed very practical, able to be set very quickly (buttons and not via the crown) and safe for the movement.

I think I really underestimated the complication this is and this makes the watch finally more appealing to me.

When I chose the 5712 the thinness was a major strength to me, that's why I wasn't that much into the 5726 or the 5980 as they were very nice but much thicker, hence much sportier.

I could try the 5990 (pictures below) and was very surprised that, on my little 16mm wrist, the watch looked perfect in width and very nice in thickness (something I didn't find that way with the 5980).

The dial is very nice, balanced and very coherent with the all 2-tone look.

I wasn't a travel time/world time complication guy but this 5990 is really something I encourage you to try on (or the 5164 if you are more an Aquanaut guy).

These are some pictures to see how it looks compared to my wrist (sorry for the bad lighting and blur):

Have a good WE.

Cheers, Mark

This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-10-06 08:12:23

About the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5164

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5164 is a travel time model within the Aquanaut collection. This specific reference is identified as 5164A-001, indicating a steel case.

The 5164A-001 features a rubber strap. No further details regarding the case material, crystal, or movement are provided.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a Patek Philippe Aquanaut with a travel time complication and a rubber strap, suitable for various climates.

Specifications

Caliber: 324 S C FUS

Case: Stainless steel

Diameter: 40.8 mm

Dial: Black embossed

Water Resist.: 120 meters

Crystal: Sapphire

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5726

The Patek Philippe Reference 5726 represents a significant milestone in the manufacture s annual calendar collection, combining the practical sophistication of an annual calendar with a sleek nautical aesthetic. Introduced as part of Patek Philippe s modern sports-elegant lineup, this reference demonstrates the brand s mastery in creating complicated timepieces that maintain everyday wearability. The 5726 builds upon Patek Philippe s rich heritage of calendar complications, offering collectors a contemporary interpretation of haute horlogerie that bridges the gap between dressy complications and contemporary sports watches.

At the heart of the Reference 5726 beats the exceptional Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303, an automatic movement that showcases Patek Philippe s technical prowess in calendar mechanisms. This sophisticated caliber features an annual calendar complication that automatically adjusts for months with 30 and 31 days, requiring manual correction only once per year at the end of February. The movement incorporates a 24-hour indication alongside the traditional calendar functions, displaying day, date, month, and moon phases through elegantly arranged subsidiary dials. The self-winding mechanism ensures consistent power delivery while maintaining the thin profile necessary for the watch s refined proportions.

The 40.5mm stainless steel case presents a contemporary interpretation of classic Patek Philippe design language, featuring clean lines and perfectly executed finishing that exemplifies the manufacture s attention to detail. The striking blue sunburst dial creates remarkable depth and luminosity, with its rich color serving as the foundation for the symmetrically arranged calendar displays. Protected by a sapphire crystal and featuring a fixed smooth bezel, the 5726 balances functionality with aesthetic refinement. For collectors, this reference represents an accessible entry point into Patek Philippe s complicated watch segment while offering the prestige and technical excellence associated with one of horology s most revered manufacturers. The combination of stainless steel construction, practical complications, and distinctive design elements positions the 5726 as a highly desirable piece for both seasoned collectors and those building their first serious watch collection.

Specifications

Caliber: Cal. 324 S QA LU 24H/303

Case: Stainless Steel

Diameter: 40.5 mm

Dial: Blue sunburst

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire crystal

Key Points from the Discussion

The 5990's ability to adjust the hour hand and date both forward and backward via pushers, with integrated safety mechanisms, is a major design highlight and makes the complication highly practical and safe for the movement.
The modified hinge integrating the two pushers on the 5990 is a significant aesthetic change that might be acceptable for frequent travelers but less so for non-travelers who prioritize design purity.
The 5990's dial, with its two-tone color and balanced subdials, is generally well-received, with some finding it more balanced than the 5980's mono-chronograph dial.
The 'clever' pushers and their mistake-prevention functions are highly useful, prompting questions about how these features compare to similar complications from other brands like Ulysse Nardin and the difficulty/patents involved in their construction.
Some collectors prefer thinner watches like the 5711 or 5712, even over complicated models, highlighting that thinness itself can be a highly valued characteristic.
The 5990's combination of Travel Time and Chronograph complications, while impressive, leads some to believe a simpler Travel Time-only complication would be more aligned with the 'Nautilus spirit,' similar to the Aquanaut 5164.

The Discussion

amanico

May 17, 2014

To me, the 5990 doesn't have the charm of the 5980, 5711 or 5712.

This additional subdial breaks the charm of the monocounter chrono. No go for me. For me... Best, Nicolas

Fricks

May 17, 2014

for me too....

... 5712 is my favorite. Something not right here, feels like an overloaded dial, surprised they haven't done it in blue though, as that color helps swallow the pill.

ch9698

May 17, 2014

same feeling

this 5990 is a good exercice, but it's far from the Nautilus spirit it's another watch

amanico

May 17, 2014

I don't even know if it is a good exercize, to tell the truth.

I have the feeling that it " cheapens " the Nautlius, somehow... Best, Nicolas

Mark in Paris

May 17, 2014

Difficult to say

I agree for the thin ones but not that much for the 5980. I like the mono chrono dial but I would say the 5990's dial is more balanced because indeed there is one subdial at 12 and another at 6. I guess this 5990 will be a watch one likes and others don't. Thanks bringing your thoughts :) Mark

GLau

May 17, 2014

Hi Mark, Thanks for the report !!

The "clever" pushers sound very useful and practical, especially for preventing owner mistakes that could damage the movement. How do these functions (forward and backwards crossing dates and mistake prevention) compare to other brands ?? I seem to recall some other brands (e.g. Ulysse) also have similar functions. Are these functions difficult to make and each brand has its own patents on how to construct them?? Thanks, Gordon