2017 is an important year for Parmigiani Fleurier as it marks the return of the Toric collection. After the Toric Chronomètre presented during the SIHH, here comes at the end of the year the Toric Hemispheres Retrograde. This last piece gives another proof of the potential of this collection inspire
2017 is an important year for Parmigiani Fleurier as it marks the return of the Toric collection. After the Toric Chronomètre presented during the SIHH, here comes at the end of the year the Toric Hemispheres Retrograde. This last piece gives another proof of the potential of this collection inspired by the first watch designed by Michel Parmigiani. If from the mechanical point of view, it brings little novelties compared to the Tonda Hemispheres (only the date window is replaced by a retrograde date by hand), on the other hand it stands out clearly in terms of aesthetics.
The movement PF317, with features a 4hz frequency for a 50-hour power reserve, used by the Toric Hemispheres Retrograde consists of a basic caliber PF331 (used by the Toric Chronometer) which powers the display module of the second time zone. This module is extremely interesting because positioning Parmigiani Fleurier's Hemisphere models among the most practical travel watches. The main problem that second-time display watches meet is that several time zones don't have a complete hours gap with UTC. Some countries have a gap expressed in hours + half an hour. And for others, much rarer, the gap is expressed in hours + 3 quarters! Contrary to popular belief, the countries concerned are far from being anecdotal. India, soon the most populated country in the world is in the zone UTC + 5h30. Iran, in the zone UTC+ 3h30 or UTC + 4h30 depending on winter time or summer time. As for Nepal, its time zone is UTC + 5h45. Thus a real travel watch must manage quarters or half an hour to cover exhaustively all the time zones of the planet. However, many models only work with full hours jumps because the two displays, the main one and the second time zone one, are linked.
Fortunately, there are some watches with independent displays and the Toric Hemispheres Retrograde belongs to this category. The lower crown adjusts the time indicated by the main hands and the day / night indicator housed in the bottom sub-dial (the second hand is also located in the same sub-dial). The retrograde date is also set by using this crown. The other crown is used to set the time indicated in the top sub-dial (which has its own day / night indicator) ... and so fully independently. Do you want to permanently display the time in Kathmandu, in Mumbai or in the Australian village of Eucla? No problem, all the time zones can be managed, even the most unusual ones. And then such an independent display can be even used as a hours and minutes counter! Just set it at noon when you want to launch it. And hey presto, here we go. Please note that turning the crown of the lower crown to move the hands of the main time will also make the hands of the second time zone turn: it is very convenient if the watch stopped after a period of non-use. By putting the main display back on time, the second time zone is also set... as long as you want to keep the same time zone, of course.
This module is therefore practical and easy to use. The only complaint I could make against the PF317 movement is that its basis caliber PF331 is too small for the pink gold case with a diameter of 43mm and it is felt by turning over the watch. Even if it is well finished, the caliber seems lost. In contrast, the size of the module and the use of the retrograde date make the white grained dial balanced. In any case, the PF317 movement is reliable and accurate, the double-barrel is primarily intended to give a better torque rather than really increase the power reserve.
Undeniably, this Toric Hemispheres Retrograde is a real aesthetic success. It is both purer and more legible than the Tonda Hemispheres. And a little paradoxical, it seems to me at the same time more classic but also more contemporary. It takes full advantage of the Toric style with "javelin" hands and knurled bezel that give character. The size of the case (however superior) seems to me to be here less sensitive than with the Toric Chronometer since the dial is well filled and more balanced. I finally appreciate the retrograde date system that brings a little originality.
The Toric Hemispheres Retrograde becomes my favorite Parmigiani Fleurier watch. I have no doubt on that point. I found it simple to use, practical with its useful complication, aesthetically successful and very well finished. It has a classic appearance but it has enough distinctive details to reveal its own personality. Finally, the hardest thing with this watch is to find good reasons to have contacts with the village of Eucla to set the second time zone on UTC + 8h45!
The Toric Hemispheres Retrograde is currently available in pink gold with a price of 29,500 euros with taxes.
Pros:
+ an ingenious and easy-to-use second time zone module
+ the presentation and lay-out of the dial, classic and elegant
+ the reliability and efficiency of the basic movement
+ the excellent quality of the finishes
Cons:
- the basic caliber seems to be lost in the case
- The case is relatively large even if the balance of the dial softens this feeling
