Foversta provides a hands-on review of the Panerai Luminor Due collection, focusing on its strategic importance for the brand's expansion. The author meticulously details the design changes, particularly the reduced case thickness, and evaluates the collection's success in attracting new customers while retaining Panerai's distinctive identity. This review offers crucial insights into Panerai's evolving design philosophy and market strategy.
The year 2016 was marked for Panerai by the launch of the new Luminor Due collection. This collection, which was presented during an event organized in May in Firenze (and thus outside the context of the SIHH) plays a strategic role for the brand as it aims to expand its customer base. In fact, Panerai suffers from the defects of its qualities. It has what many market players dream of having, namely a recognizable style at first glance. The counterpart of this strong brand identity is the extreme difficulty to achieve the necessary work of change and renewal to conquer new markets and customer segments. Because this is the mission of the Luminor Due collection: to seduce customers who until today have stayed insensible in front of the sizes and volumes of the different watches of the catalog while keeping the recognizable stylistic elements that constitute the main asset of Panerai.
The Luminor Due 42mm:
To do this, Panerai worked on an essential element: the thickness of the case. The Luminor Due collection is based on two models available in steel or rose gold, from one side, a handwind version with a diameter of 42mm, from the other a self-winding version with a diameter of 45mm. In both cases, the thickness of the cases, respectively 10,5 and 10,7mm, is considerably reduced compared to the usual dimensions of the brand. Undoubtedly, the designers have done a great job because when the two watches are strictly observed from the front, they manage to radiate the same sense of character than the other models of the catalog. Moreover, the finishes of the cases are flawless thanks to the successful aesthetic integration of the lugs and the crown guard. Playing as usual on the ambiguity between the "round" and "cushion" shapes, the cases of the Luminor Due collection are attractive and can even boast a certain elegance. Unfortunately, this thinning work has been done at the expense of the water resistance which is only 30 meters. It's obviously a shame because these watches will not necessarily accompany their owners in all situations.
The P1000 movement:
The wearing test tends to temper the very positive first feeling about the design. Of course, in both cases, the watches are very nice when put on the wrist since they are comfortable. The bracelets are thinner than usual for obvious aesthetic reasons and their flexibility allows to position ideally the cases. My disappointment is more related to a feeling given by the Luminor Due 45mm.
As indicated above, the two watches have almost the same thickness in spite of a diameter difference of 3mm. The ratio diameter / thickness is much higher for the 45mm case and it inevitably can be felt: the watch can't escape from the "fried egg" effect and appears to be too thin given its size. However, the 42mm version is much more convincing for my taste because I find it more coherent and balanced.
The Luminor Due 42mm to the wrist:
The difference between the two diameters is also visible on the dial side. Given the position of the second hand, there is enough space on the dial of the 45mm version for housing a "9" between the bezel and the hand. The 42mm version doesn't use it. The treatment of the sandwich dial is similar in both cases with a successful black sunray effect that highlights the luminescent indexes and numerals. Please note that the rose gold versions have an anthracite dial color.
The Luminor Due 45mm:
The handwind movement P1000 that powers the Luminor Due 42mm has a 4hz frequency and a 3-day power reserve. It also offers a stop second and a zero reset of the second hand what is very convenient when setting the time. I like its presentation that is sober with a technical atmosphere. I find rather visually attractive thanks to its transverse balance bridge and the quite original bridges shapes.
The Luminor Due 45mm uses the self-winding movement P4000, which also features a 4hz frequency and a 3-day power reserve. Its architecture is interesting thanks to the micro-rotor. Its presentation is in the same line than the P1000 one and I appreciate this discreet and contemporary rendering. However, it is important to clarify that the finishes and the skeletonized decorative style of the movements are on a much higher level with the rose gold versions. I find positive the concept to adapt the presentation of the movements according to the metal cases and the prices of the watches.
The P4000 movement:
The global assessment of the Luminor Due collection is in my opinion contrasted. The 42mm version appealed to me thanks to its consistency and its overall balance. And I like to use a handwind movement that seems closer to the spirit and the roots of the brand. On the other hand, the 45mm version gave me a strange feeling, as if the case stretched to infinity. I also wonder if the argument of the thin case height can really work with this watch. The imposing diameter remains and if the watch can be more easily worn under the shirt, it still offers an impressive size. In this context, can it truly seduce a customer who has remained insensitive to the Panerai watches because he was finding them too bulky? I don't think so.
The Luminor Due 45mm on the wrist:
The Luminor Due 42mm steel is available in France with a price of 7.900 euros, taxes included while the price of the 45mm version is 10,400 euros.
Pros:
+ The finishes of the cases and dials
+ The Performance of the movements P1000 and P4000 that offer a 3-day power reserve
+ The balance and coherence of the 42mm version
+ The comfort on the wrist, even with the 45mm version
Cons:
- The water resistance of 30m is too low in a Panerai context
- The "fried egg" effect of the 45mm version. The rendering is unusual and a little disconcerting for a Panerai watch.
Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2016-09-05 14:23:42 
