
Bill's original post offers an invaluable, early look at the Panerai PAM 390 Special Edition, a watch that quickly became a significant piece for collectors. His detailed photographs and direct comparisons with the PAM 000 and PAM 232 provide crucial context for understanding the 390's unique aesthetic and its place within Panerai's heritage. This article revisits Bill's insights and synthesizes the community's initial reactions, offering a retrospective on why this 'chocolate dial' Luminor remains a sought-after reference.
Hi all
I had a chance to photograph the new Panerai PAM390 today. I was able to get a PAM 000 and a PAM 232 to contrast and compare.
Originally Posted in 2011.
What we know so far about the PAM 390 is that is a Special Edition of 2000 pieces. This comes in a special edition presentation box (larger than the standard issue) together with the famous "Scroll" that accompanies all Panerai Special Editions. These will be "only" available through the boutiques worldwide. As we have seen there are many owners who have been kind enough to share their new acquisition with us. This watch was little know around the Panerai community and as with many of these micro edition sprung out of nowhere to "now here" (the love guru) and blindsided most. However as many have also noticed there where catalog pictures last year but no mention till they hit the streets. Mr. Bonati played this one very close to his chest and was able to keep the surprise and the lid on this release as the internet buzz has once again beaten the street with Ad's scrambling to find out about this beauty. This is a keeper and is sure to find it's place with collectors like the PAM 249 and too many to mention … You can fill in the blanks
The Panerai 390 is a real beauty with the famous "chocolate" dial and aged patina application for the numeral and index application. The watch sports the classic OP1 movement with a highly polished case reminiscent of the PAM 000. In fact it is very similar except for that gorgeous brown dial and aged patina that give a more historic feel to it. And yes Gold hands that pop unlike the subdued hands of the PAM 000 which almost blend into the background. OK I won't bore you with and more fluff and take you to the pictures. On a side note the brown dial is almost impossible to represent in photos with using artistic license "photoShop", the pictures here are sans photoshot but with the reference of a black dial and a brown 232 you can get a feel for the color.





Now we start to compare and contrast. The PAM 000 and the PAM 390. The difference in dial color is pretty obvious. The "Zero" looks great also but the combo of aged patina, brown dial and gold hands make for nice showing.




Next the Pam 390 VS the PAM 232 that sports a similar brown dial and gold hands. At the base the colors are not too dissimilar however the sandwich dial and greenish markers tend to shift the color somewhat vs the yellow in the aged patina markers that lend themselves very well to the making the brown somewhat richer. Again both dials look great I just trying to best describe the brown dial.




Finally all three put together is very revealing for the dial colors. I hope you enjoy the photo review and good luck catching one.
Bill


The PAM000 represents the Luminor Base Logo within Panerai's Luminor Base series. This reference carries the fundamental characteristics of the Luminor Base collection while incorporating the brand's logo display on the dial.
The watch features a 44mm polished steel case housing a black dial. The substantial case diameter positions this model within Panerai's larger-sized offerings, maintaining the proportions characteristic of the Luminor Base architecture.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking an entry point into the Luminor Base series with logo branding. The 44mm steel construction and black dial configuration represent a foundational specification within the model range, offering the core Luminor Base aesthetic in a straightforward execution.
Great comparison and photos that clearly shows the differences in hues and nuances . I know I want one BADDDDly. Enjoy yours. Cheers,dreamer
Trust you guys are well. Just love all the base models. wish there is a pvd next to them Regards John
It is very subtle but the combination of the hues and the applied markers change the tint when compared with a brown sandwich dial. This give the watch a unique personality and a place in the historic lineup. Bill
Sorry I don't have any pvd versions available to compare. I will do my best to get a hold of one. Best Bill
I like the brown dial and the gold hands, I think they go very well togther. Best regards, George
Hi George I have done my best to put some context with other dials but even then it is pretty hard to capture. I hope these pics inspire you to add another historic to your collection and I hope there are no changes along the way .... dark glass .... Best Bill
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