Moritz Grossmann BENU Pure Edition Japan

KIH · 2016-11-05T09:51:10Z

KIH reviews the Moritz Grossmann BENU Pure Edition Japan (LE of 20), comparing its unique black dial, brushed case, and movement finishes to the standard ATUM Pure. Exclusive insights for collectors.

KIH

WPS member · Independents forum

15 replies4407 views53 photos

KIH's detailed report on the Moritz Grossmann BENU Pure Edition Japan offers an exclusive look at a limited-edition timepiece and its subtle yet significant differences from standard models. His side-by-side comparisons and intricate photography provide invaluable insights for collectors interested in the nuances of independent watchmaking and regional exclusives.

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As always, the boutique is standing in the mostly residential neighborhood, 30 minutes subway ride from Ginza area where most of the watch boutique gather......

Here is the "Edition Japan" BENU Pure (not ATUM Pure!).

The first difference you may notice is the index - Arabic vs. Bar.

But not only that, the hands are different - same as the precious metal BENU.

A bit confusing, but consider this SS version BENU with "Pure element" and brushed lugs and bezel + first Black dial from Mortitz Grossman.

And another difference is - the lugs and the bezel are brush finish, while the "normal" BENU Pure has all polished case. The brushed finish is used for the first time for this "Edition Japan".

Japan Boutique asked for all brushed, but Glashutte polished on the side.....

Side by side with the Catalog ATUM Pure. Check the difference of the hands, and case finish, and bezel. BENU Pure Edition Japan has hands used for the BENU precious metal case version.

Also, on the back has difference.

On the right is BENU Pure Edition Japan. Bridges are those of "Pure", yet has BENU details....

Edition Japan has different finish on the ratchet and the crown wheel (can you tell?).

Yes, the standard one has all brushed finish while Edition Japan (above) has sunburst finish on the ratchet and polished crown-wheel.

Standard ATUM Pure wrist shot (LE of 150, anyway).

All polished and I like this way, too.

BENU Pure Edition Japan wrist shots.

Brushed bezel and polished side are something "funny"....?

But I like this dial, painted arabic index, but with numbers on the small second.

Surely, the buckles finish are different, too....

Now, now, this is a beautiful color - standard ATUM Pure.

Vertical hairlines on the dial. The small second is, changes depending on the lighting, the same blue color.

White dial version has slight concentric pattern.

Specifications of ATUM Pure:

Calibar 201.0

# of Parts - 187

20 Jewels

Balance wheel - 14.2mm diameter, 18000 VPH

Power reserve - 42 hours

Pull the crown - stop second and adjust time. Press the small bottun on 4h - re-start.

Size - 41mm diameter, 11.35 thickness

Hands - hand finished: Resin + HyCream, polished.

Here are ATUM Pure M (as in Mesh)

Blue.

See the mesh on the front - the base plate has been altered, so the caliber number is different.

White.

White with Dianoir DLC SS Case.

Interesting color combo. Tokyo boutique decided to use all black straps for all the colors.

6 Parts dial....

Not printed, but ink has been poured in to the carved numbers.

This may look interesting. White Sapphire is used instead of ruby here.

Specifications for ATUM Pure M are same as the ATUM Pure, except for the caliber number, I think.

This mesh version are LE 50 for each color (White, White DLC, Blue, Blue DLC, Orange, Orange DLC, Green, and Green DLC).

As always, very well made with attention to details.

You may think that "Pure" is something of cost cutting. Partly yes, but they did not cut the corner like black-polishing the regulator, and...

..the screw heads....

The difference on the back of ATUM Pure and ATUM.

Also the hair spring is different - for original ATUM, they use the Breguet spring, but rolled in their own way....

...where ATUM Pure has "flat" spring....

So, "Pure" series has finally hit the retail outpost, I think you may want to check them out!

Ken

Key Points from the Discussion

The BENU Pure Edition Japan's dial is not universally appealing, but its movement is highly praised. The blue Pure and Pure M with white numerals are noted as interesting, though some find them too 'cold' or 'German'.
The brushed lugs and bezel of the Edition Japan, a first for Moritz Grossmann, were a specific request from the Japan Boutique, showcasing regional influence on design.
The movement of the BENU Pure is described as stunning, with a Zen-like quality due to its understated finishing on the plates, contrasted by refined details on screws, ratchet wheel, and crown wheel.
The blue dial version of the BENU Pure is considered highly desirable, especially in person, due to its vertical hairline finish that changes expression with light.
The 'Pure' lines are noted as being more affordable compared to Moritz Grossmann's previous top-of-the-line, highly finished movements, making them more accessible.

The Discussion

Esharp

Nov 5, 2016

AHA!

Ken, thank you for this! I\'m not hugely drawn to the Japan LE\'s dial (no complaints about the movement though!) but the Pure in blue and the Pure M with the white numerals are both very interesting. I can\'t quite figure out if I really like them or if they are just a bit too cold, too...well...German for my taste. That said, I have a love for simple time-only watches with sub-seconds at 6 (no date, thank you very much) and have in fact lately been obsessing over which two-hander or three-hand

KIH

Nov 6, 2016

Understandable....

The blue in particular is stunning, with vertical hairline and such, changing its expression depending on the light.... drooling....

TheMadDruid

Nov 5, 2016

Very well done, Ken.

A great follow-up to your previous report on a visit to this Boutique (which cost me quite a bit of money!). You did an excellent job of contrasting the three steel versions of the Atun. Had the Mesh been available when I was in the market I may very well have chosen that one. Your pictures do a great job of capturing both dial and movement. I very much like the Boutique edition as well-nicely different than the regular steel model. I look forward to more of your visits to this Salon. It would b

KIH

Nov 6, 2016

Oh, well, this visit would not...

.... cost you as much as the last time - the watches "Pure" lines are quite affordable, in comparison to the previous top-of-the-line, spare-no-expense highest-end finished movements!

Alkiro1

Nov 5, 2016

Very nice report Ken. Great job

From my side, I definitely vote for the blue edition. I\'m sure this one is more desirable in real rather than pictures. Well, something to keep in a corner of my head ;-) Best wishes Alkiro

KIH

Nov 6, 2016

Yup, the photo does not do justice to the blue dial....

Yeah, it is very, very tempting, I tell you that!