Montblanc Timewalker DLC Dual Time/Big Date Review

Michael Ting's comprehensive review of the Montblanc Timewalker DLC Dual Time/Big Date offers an in-depth look at a model designed for young, upwardly mobile professionals. This article highlights Montblanc's rapid transformation in horology, showcasing a watch that blends sporty aesthetics with useful complications and innovative materials.

Montblanc Timewalker DLC

Dual Time/Big Date Review

by Michael Ting

© November 2010

Although the company lacks true watchmaking legacy, Montblanc is working at a fanatical pace to silence its critics and achieve horological legitimacy in a crowded marketplace.  Over the short span of three years the brand has completely remodeled its timepiece division.  The nondescript and overpriced model lines of the past have been replaced by unique watch offerings at every price point.  Nowhere was this transformation more evident than in the novelties being displayed at SIHH 2010.

While the new Exotourbillon and the Silicon Rieussec chronographs were captivating, what caught my attention was the Timewalker DLC Dual Time.  Although this model is not on the “radar screen” for most watch enthusiasts, it should garner more attention.  In my humble opinion, this watch successfully incorporates the most useful complications for Montblanc’s main target customer base: young, upwardly mobile professionals.

General Overview:

The Montblanc DLC Dual Time is the latest addition to the successful Timewalker collection.  This model attempts to take advantage of the popular trend of all-black watches and it’s monochromatic look fools the eye into believing that the watch is larger than its actual size.  The rose gold plated accents and the glossy coating on the case add a bit of richness to an otherwise sporty design.

The model, surprisingly, looks good on both male and female wrists.  It is not too heavy (87grams), sits comfortably, and not bulky being slightly over 11 mm thick.

Case, Lug, and Crown:

The classic 42mm Timewalker case is utilized for the DLC Dual Time model.  As previously discussed the Timewalker case design was created by Giampiero Bodino, the same genius behind the now iconic Panerai Luminor cases.

Viewed directly on the wrist, it is very difficult to see any component of the case because its sides, the bezel, and the lugs all slope away, allowing the dial to dominate the visual field.

Viewed from the side, the skeletonization and the curvature of the lugs become apparent. 

 The side profile also gives credence to the following origin story: that the design of the Timewalker case was first inked on a napkin in an Asian restaurant by Mr. Bodino who was inspired by a cooking wok!

Obviously the main feature of the case is its proprietary Dual Carbon Coating.  In the standard DLC coating process a singe layer of carbon coating is applied to the stainless steel surface of a watch case.  There is a significant difference between the very high hardness of the DLC coating and the softer surface of the steel to which the coating is applied. This can result in a inferior adhesion of the DLC coating and bears the danger that it can easily crack off.  Montblanc uses a special thermal treatment by carbon diffusion (hence "dual carbon") for hardening the surface of stainless steel case before applying the DLC coating.  This complex technology results in a DLC coating on the Timewalker "Dual Carbon" watches which is 3 times more resistant than standard DLC and is key differentiator to other DLC watches found on the market.  Below is the complete six step procedure.

The final result is a black and high polished surface which unfortunately is also very susceptible to fingerprint smudges.

Here is a look at the quality of Montblanc’s coating process.

 In the interior angle between the lug and case.

Between the case and the crown tube.

Around the interior spring bar holes, no special tools are needed for strap changes.

Notice there is no dual carbon coating on the interior surface of the skeletonized lugs.  Practically these areas are not exposed and hence have no need for the treatment.

The quality and distribution of the coating is excellent in these commonly overlooked areas.

The crown is textured and sized to allow for easy winding and setting of the watch.  It is capped with the Montblac star in resin. It does not screw down hence the watch is only water resistant to 3 bar.

The display back is attached to the case with six stainless steel screws.

The Dial:

Under a slightly domed sapphire crystal, there is no mistaking this dial for any other brand except Montblanc.  This instant recognition is possible because of the bold and unique typeface developed specifically for the Timewalker collection. 

The layout is vertically symmetric.  Both the big date and the second timezone displays are located equidistant from the center of the dial.

The dual time subdial, located at the six o clock position, is proportionally pleasing and functional. This display is slightly sunken and has a circular stamped background which provides a subtle contrast to the satinized finish of the main dial.

The large date is displayed through two aperatures located at the twelve o clock position.

Luminous dots are located at the hour markers.  Relatively small in area, the night time illumination is limited to only a few minutes after a full charge in sunlight.

Text is thankfully kept to a minimum.  The printing is sharp.

The hands of the main dial retain the same shape as all other Timewalker models.  These graduated batons have a think strip of luminous.  The hands of the dual time subdial are skeletonized and cannot be visualized at night.

The Complications:

As already mentioned, this model incorporates two useful mechanical complications:  the big date and dual time.

Functionally, the date changes instantaneously and is extremely quiet and smooth.  Upon close inspection, the digits of the date display utilize the same font as the Arabic numerals found elsewhere on the dial.  The windows are smaller than big date mechanisms developed by other manufactures but this was done to keep the size of date wheels down.  Because both wheels are located on the same plane, there is no depth difference between the two numerals of the date.  For the first nine days of the month the number zero is displayed as a place holder and since this is a simple calendar mechanism the owner will need to adjust the date accordingly.  The quickset date correction is carried out via the crown when pulled out to position 2. 

The dual time complication is also adjusted via the crown. When the crown is pulled out to the third position, turning it backwards will advance the time both on the main and secondary subdial.  Turning the crown forward will uncouple the mechanism so the time on the main dial can be set independently.  Under normal use, the time should be the same on both displays while at home.  When travelling, the owner would adjust the watch so that the local time is shown by the main hands while the home time remains undisturbed on the subdial.

The Buckle:

The buckle is also coated utilizing the same dual carbon technology.  The design theme found on the case of the watch is continued to this component with the shanks of the tang buckle being skeletonized like the lugs.

The Movement:

Not surprisingly, Montblanc did not build the movement but instead chose a well respected partner to provide the engine for this watch.  The Soprod caliber TT6651 utilizes an ETA 2892A2 base ebauche meshed with a custom designed complications module. The technical specifications for this Soprod movement are the same as the ETA: 21 Jewels, 28,800 VPH with a power reserve of 42 hours.

On the wrist this specimen had a power reserve of 39.8 hours (average of two readings) and after two weeks of continuous wear it was accurate to -4 sec/day.  On the microtimer utilizing a lift angle of 51 degrees, here are the testing results.

Soprod’s and ETA’s technical bulletins state that this movement was regulated in four positions (CH, 3H, 6H, 9H), should have a maximum deviation between all positions of no more than 20 sec, a middle rate of 5 +/-5 sec/day, maximum amplitude of 315 degrees, and a minimum amplitude of 210 degrees.

For the watch collector, the familiar view of an ETA 2892A can be appreciated through the sapphire display back.  It is apparent that Soprod selected the top finishing/execution version for their purposes.  The rhodium plated rotor customized for Montblanc is a pleasant aesthetic change from the previous versions (pictured below) which had absolutely no character.

 Close inspection showed that somewhere along the production line, this sample movement suffered some cosmetic injury.  For example, the top of this blued screw was gauged deep enough it expose the non oxidized steel (Note: this picture is magnified to demonstrate what can be seen with a 3X loupe).  There were a few other screw slots which were damaged.  While not visible to the naked eye nor critical to the mechanical function of the watch, these blemishes should be caught during quality control for actual retail models especially since they can be directly observed through the exhibition back. 

Conclusion:

It is easy and tempting, in a horology focused community, to dismiss Montblanc as a serious brand in the watch world.  However the Montblanc Timewalker DLC Dual Time is a perfect example of the company's new focus.  It is a watch created for active professionals who view Montblanc as a luxury brand, is willing to pay a premium for the name recognition, and really could care less about horological pedigree.  To their credit Montblanc doesnot take advantage of their customer's trust and created an unique watch with a combination of features which could satisfy most die hard watch enthusiasts.

Copyright November 2010 - Michael Ting & PuristSPro.com - all rights reserved

Comments, suggestions, and corrections to this article are welcome.