Innovation
Mkt33 delves into the Montblanc Metamorphosis, using it as a lens to examine the evolving role of independent watchmakers within the Time Aeon Foundation. This post critically analyzes whether collaborations with larger brands like Montblanc and Harry Winston compromise the spirit of independent horology or offer a vital path for preserving and advancing watchmaking skills.
About 4 years ago ThePuristS.com reported on a new "alliance" of independent watchmakers.
The founding partners of this Time Aeon group consisted of a well respected, time tested member (Dufour), an inspiring and creative mind (Halter), and three experienced but relatively new independent watchmakers (Kari Voutilainen, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey). This small group's stated objectives were to share the knowledge and skills of master watchmakers for future generations.
The velocity which Voutilainen, Greubel and Forsey have gained success in the industry continues to amaze me. Compared to his own long and tortuous road to recognition, I am sure even Mr. Dufour is impressed. So in hindsight the knowledge shared amongst members of Time Aeon would definately benefit new watchmakers wishing to succeed as an individual in a field dominated by large brands.
However in 2008 this small group realized that despite their own individual successes they could not fulfill their mission without help so Time Aeon formed a foundation with corporate entities as their new partners:
What was irritating at the time of this press release was my impression that Time Aeon would now only serve as a creative "feeder" to Harry Winston. Even worse were the three new "retail" partners being mentionned. Were "Westime, Louvre, and Ginotti only "in it" to guarrentee a steady stream of the newest and hottest timepieces for their demanding clients?
I thought my fears were confirmed with the introduction of this watch for Harry Winston
and the announcement of the Pleiad competition in which the winning watchmaker will have a limited series of timepieces produced under the Harry Winston brand with the name of the winner featured on the watch.
Is new era of independent watchmaking selling its soul under this agreement?
When Montblanc acquired Minerva and started the Institut de Recherche, they also joined this new Time Aeon foundation to fulfill their historical mission of preserving the Villeret watchmaking tradition. Montblanc was, and still is, the only other large brand involved.
As initial support, the Minerva Institute manufactured a Grand Chronographe Email Grand Feu in platinum from the Montblanc Villeret 1858 collection. This one-off timepiece was auctioned and proceeds from the sale donated to Time Aeon Foundation. The Institute also pledged to make its workshops, resources and expertise available to help the Foundation see its chosen projects through to completion.
So now we see the evolution of this Time Aeon concept in the creation of the Metamorphosis.
From the official Montblanc press release:
" Montblanc created the “TimeWriter” concept, under which the company wants to introduce projects with independent creators that have great ideas and plan to establish themselves as independent watchmakers. It is foreseen to present a project every two years. A complex industry such as watchmaking demands investments that are very often much too costly for young entrepreneurs to finance on their own, so through the help of Montblanc the Institut Minerva also contributes, both materially and intellectually, toward helping these ambitious individuals start their own business"
and later in the press release
"Only 28 pieces of the Montblanc Metamorphosis will be manufactured. Its technical achievements, which remain the intellectual property of the two watchmakers Johnny Girardin and Franck Orny, write an important chapter in the still brief history of the newly founded firm of Télôs Watch SA, which is under the direction of these two inventive men, whom it will serve as a channel through which to bring their ideas and expertise to the market. For their first creation, the Metamorphosis, Montblanc made available to them all the necessary developmental and technical resources at the Institut Minerva in Villeret, and is providing the requisite financial investments and rendering the moral and administrative support that these two young businessmen need in order to realize their ambitious projects and afterwards continue to ply their trade at their own Télôs Watch SA. "
so how much capital does it take to being a new complex watch to fruition?
Obviously a lot more than any one new watchmaker /engineer (or two in this case) can muster. Take a look at the publically available company record for Télôs Watch SA (click here ). 100,000CHF doesn't go a long way...without Montblanc's support Télôs Watch SA would have been a non-starter.
So by giving Girardin and Orny access to the Cal. 16.29 as their base movement to build the Metamorphosis complication (by itself a whopping 315 individual parts) and by working alongside Florian Broussard who was one of the constructeurs behind the creation of the Cal 16.29 the new fledging Télôs Watch SA was able to accomplish in 18 months what probably would have taken them a few years to do, if at all.
The final product is not yet available since the Metamorphosis is still in prototype production but once complete it will be a game changer...both in terms of price and novelty.
and look, Montblanc has followed through with the original Time Aeon/ Harry Winston concept...Girardin's and Orny's names are on the dial (at least on one of the two faces)
So I am interested to hear what my fellow PuristS think of Montblanc's collaboration with Time Aeon.
Are these types of projects (think Opus series, MB&F) worth the time, effort, and resources?
Is this a "better" way of bringing attention to new independent watchmakers or is our romantic vision of a passionate, lone watchmaker working by candlelight, living on bread and water, and having their watch "discovered" by a wondering Purist preferable?
What is the future for Micromechanical/engineering consulting firms like Agenhor now that BNB concepts have gone under...Can another like Télôs Watch SA survive?
Montblanc is pushing forward though...looks like the next "winner" of the Pleiad has already been secretly announced:
" Now that this project is well on its way toward public presentation in Geneva, the experts at the Institut Minerva have begun turning attention to their next supportive project, which they plan to conduct during the ensuing eighteen months – because development must never be allowed to stand still! "
I wonder what's in Harry Winston's pipeline!
Just some thoughts on a lazy Sunday afternoon.
Mike
The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.
This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.
For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.
Since it is easier to pick nits than process the entire idea on the first read I'd not use BNB's failure as a mark against the business model, they seem to have been mostly done in by poor accounting/collection rather than a lack of business.... A
logical "arguments" in support or against the Time Aeon concept. Is the Time Aeon concept any different than the Confrérie Horlogère idea set up by the now failed BNB concept? I guess it was interesting trying to understand how the independent watchmakers saw themselves relative to the real players in the industry vs. what we (as enthusiasts) saw them representing. Cheers, Mike PS _ I loved the way BNB concept was "rescued" by Hublot... Great marketing!
I'd buy stock in a Zepplin company if he was behind it.... A
It's hard to say whether or not if Montblanc's collaboration with Time Aeon would be beneficial or beneficial to one party or not beneficial to both parties. The way I've interpreted Time Aeon is like a conglomerate of the small independents coming together. If this interpretation is correct, then I would consider Time Aeon to be counterproductive to watch lovers who support small AHCI Independents. The whole point about being an independent is having a small production; small means that your bu
of thoughts. I was feeling a bit conflicted between my love for independent watchmaking and the Time Aeon concept. I cannot imagine any independent watchmakers starting out with such a complicated piece...most start out with a three hand/time only model then expand from there if they have the financial ability. Look at PSM... Recently some are able to start out with more complicated pieces like McGonigle brothers, G&F. Kari started with piece unique decimal repeaters. Perhaps these relations
Hublot's current models rely heavily on BNB products, I think at least all their tourbillons if not other pieces as well. Without BNB, Hublot is in for a world of hurt..... A
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