Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva LE Review
Innovation

Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva LE Review

By amanico · May 15, 2023 · 30 replies
amanico
WPS member · Montblanc forum
30 replies9161 views14 photos
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Amanico's hands-on review of the Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Limited Edition from Watches and Wonders 2023 offers a deep dive into one of the year's most innovative chronographs. This article explores the unique bezel-operated chronograph mechanism, a feature amanico highlights as a significant departure from traditional pusher designs. His initial impressions provide crucial context for understanding Montblanc's direction in horological innovation.

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Last year, Montblanc surprised us with the Unveiled Secret and the Red Arrow. This year, there is another version of the Unveiled Secret, but I would like to first focus on the real novelty of this year, which is, in my opinion, one of the most surprising and original watches, all brands included, the 1858 Unveiled Timekeer. 

In fact, there are two versions, one in steel, limited to 100 pieces, and one in lime gold, limited to 28 pieces: 



It obviously is a Chronograph, but there lies a question: Where is the pusher? For a moment, I thought it was subtly located in the crown, but it is not the case. 


So, how does it work? 

The originality which, as far as I know is unique, is that the chronograph starts, stops and resets to zero through the... Bezel! Turn it clockwise once, and it starts. Twice, and it stops, and a third time and it resets to zero. The feeling is not very smooth, but how funny it is to activate the chronograph functions this way! 

I only know three chronographs which don't have pushers: A Habring, which uses its crown, the Jaeger Lecoultre Amvox 2 and 7, which uses the pivoting case, and this Montblanc, with its bezel. 

Without the(se) pushers, the case gains in purity and class. I would have preferred a slimmer bezel, though. As for the bezels, they both are in gold ( white for the steel / lime for the... Lime gold case ). 

The case is 42, 5 mm big, 13, 85 mm high, which is, if my memory serves me well, the bigger case housing the Cal 13.21. The case is water resistant to 30 meters. The beveled lugs are generous, which is a detail I enjoy a lot. 








The crown, I find it to be really exquisite. And original, as its shape is different from the other Montblanc Minerva watches I know. 

The front sapphire glass is domed. And below, you find a traditional 1858 dial, which is a sunray decorated in blue for the steel and in green for the lime gold, with Cathedral hands.

A notable difference with the other 1858 dials is the presence of applied hour markers, filled with luminova.




Some live photos of the 1858 Unveiled Timekeeper: 









The feast is also in the back case, with, as always with Montblanc Minerva, the Cal 13.21. It is a rather small chronograph movement, with a diameter of only 29, 5 mm. But what a beauty! The level of decoration and finishings is on par with the best manual winding chronographs you can find on the market. 








Let's remember that it has a power reserve of 60 hours. 

If I had to find three flaws with this " Unveiled Timekeeper ", it would be the a bit too large bezel, a tad too big case. 40 / 41 mm would have been more to my taste. Third flaw, the price... 45, 000 Euros for the steel, 60, 500 Euros for the lime gold, that starts to become... Pricey. 

But the price is relative, compared to what the contenders offer at this level of quality. 

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best,

Nicolas

About the Montblanc 1858 Collection Ref. 1858

The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.

This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.

For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.

Specifications

Caliber
Boucheron 1858
Case
18k white gold
Diameter
38mm
Dial
Silver
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AN
andrea~
May 15, 2023
The idea is good

The execution lacks refinement. The bezel is too big and the interesting actuation mechanism isn't worth the big size delta and off-looking proportions. The monopusher version is much more wearable and aesthetically pleasing.

AM
amanico
May 15, 2023
I agree with you on all points. Very interesting but it would be better with a smaller case and a slimmer bezel...

OR
orahu
May 15, 2023
Both watches look very nice β€” not sure about the durability of the bezel mechanism β€” and the price! Thanks for sharing them.

Do you know what the significance is of the years on the back of the case? I find them a bit distracting, even with beautiful movement to grab my attention.

AM
amanico
May 15, 2023
I guess they are important dates for Minerva...

ES
Esharp
May 15, 2023
Interesting, but does it sacrifice practicality?

How much time does it take to start or stop the chronograph? And is it possible to stop the restart it, or only to progress start - stop - reset? Best E.

AM
amanico
May 15, 2023
Start stop and reset, from what I understood.

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