Innovation
Amanico's hands-on review of the Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Limited Edition from Watches and Wonders 2023 offers a deep dive into one of the year's most innovative chronographs. This article explores the unique bezel-operated chronograph mechanism, a feature amanico highlights as a significant departure from traditional pusher designs. His initial impressions provide crucial context for understanding Montblanc's direction in horological innovation.
The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.
This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.
For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.
The execution lacks refinement. The bezel is too big and the interesting actuation mechanism isn't worth the big size delta and off-looking proportions. The monopusher version is much more wearable and aesthetically pleasing.
Do you know what the significance is of the years on the back of the case? I find them a bit distracting, even with beautiful movement to grab my attention.
How much time does it take to start or stop the chronograph? And is it possible to stop the restart it, or only to progress start - stop - reset? Best E.
I like that they are thinking outside the box with this mechanism. Overall I don't like the design cue which began last year with the knurled bezel. I guess there is some historical precedent here. The case size is a few mm too big... they could have gone 40mm like with the green dial cal 13 from 2018. I do think it is a step in the right direction with the dial. The dial itself and the numerals do look nicer than recent versions. Prices... well everything has gone up considerably over the past
The case and bezel both appear large as compared to the dial but I pretty much like the design on the back of the case. The blue prints of the years of significance which may be distractful to some but they have served the purpose of making the 16.21 movement look bigger and giving me a sense of balance. Overall, this timepiece still looks more a raw prototype to me than a finished product.
I really prefer the more refined cases of their 2006-2015 pieces (that's why I have got some of them)
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