Girard-Perregaux & Dominique Loiseau Collaboration

KIH · 2012-07-03T05:58:31Z

Explore Girard-Perregaux's 2012 collaboration with master watchmaker Dominique Loiseau, revealing insights into their high-complication strategy and future 'V12' offerings.

KIH

WPS member · Girard Perregaux forum

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KIH's report from a 2012 Girard-Perregaux event in Tokyo offers a rare glimpse into the collaboration with legendary watchmaker Dominique Loiseau. This article is significant for understanding the strategic direction Girard-Perregaux was taking a decade ago, focusing on high complications and in-house manufacturing. It highlights the brand's commitment to horological innovation through partnerships with master craftsmen.

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Part 1 - Dominique Loiseau and Girard-Perregaux Collaboration

A talk show by Mr. Loiseau was held at The Hour Glass Ginza and he talked about the new collaboration initiative with Girard-Perregaux, with lots of GP Masterpieces some of which had me drool....

Mr. Dominique Loiseau -
My expectation was a more uptight, somewhat eccentric (sorry!), and less smiley gentleman, but he failed my expectations, in a good way. He is very friendly, always smiling with lots of sense of humor. The talk show was of course full of his own philosophy and enthusiasm about watchmaking, but also fun with lots of laugh.

Mr. Loiseau talk show hosted by Mr. Norio Takagi, Watch Journalist.

Opening remark by Ms. Okabe - CEO, Sowind Japan

Introduction: Mr. Loiseau studied philosophy in college and participated in the student activism which is later called "May 68". The experience certainly influenced his life and, according to him, the respect for "manufacturing" grew inside him which led him to decide to go to the watchmaker school. Later, as you may know, he became the head of restoration department of the Watch and Clock Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds. And, lastly it was announced early this year that Mr. Loiseau and 221-year old manufacture, Girard-Perregaux join forces in creating in particular complication watches but actually much more than this.

Norio Takagi ("NT"): Let me introduce Mr. Loiseau briefly. This is "La Rose des Temps" which he created in 1984. This clock has 36 complications and the last one was hidden behind the door which would open only in 2001 and every 200 years thereafter. (note: the Japanese Character on top reads "Dominique Loiseau"m if you are curious...)

And then, this is the most familiar to you, Blancpain 1735 which has Tourbillon, Minute Repeater, Perpetual Calendar, Split Second Chronograph, and Moonphase - all these complications are compacted in the 31.5mm movement.

Now this is his last year creation - "1f4". Would you explain what complications are in this movement?

Dominique Loiseau ("DL"): I wanted to put in as many complications as possible, but realized that it was impossible to do it on one side, therefore I decided to use both sides of the watch. Further, I wanted to it to be powered by "automatic winding" not only for the time mechanism but also for the chiming. First I thought of how to split those complications to two sides, but after all, it must be practically allocated. So, I first had to come up with how to "flip" quickly without cumbersome action by the wearer. Sorry that I can't show you here, but it can be done instantly without using hinges (patented). Thanks to this device, both sides of the watch - perpetual calendar side as well as the tourbillon side - can be used alternatively. The owner can use it as a watch on either side. Now the automatic winding mechanism is the next challenge. I have built the rotor around the movement and on the dial circumference. To show it working, a diamond and a sapphire are put in the ring or annular rotor. One rotor winds for the power for both sides.

On the dials are: Flying Tourbillon, Day/Night, GMT, Chronograph 30 min. counter, Equation of Time, Power Reserve indicator for Chiming mechanism.... on the other side, Perpetual Calendar, 2nd Time, Local Time, Leap Year, etc...

It took my brain work like a chess game for 6 years without a break. The name is 1f4 is actually the chess opening proposed by the famous chess player Bird. As Loiseau is Bird in English, this was another connection that led me to choose this name.

NT: How many parts?

DL: 891 parts.

NT: And you make all those 891 parts by hands?

DL: yes, all are done by hands. Hand-made is my raison d'etre. I have been doing restoration of very fine old watches made by the legendary watchmakers in the history. Some of them are in a really bad shape. I am used to making the broken parts by myself - it is natural because those watchmakers did make those parts by hand themselves, so why not? And this "1f4" - we can make this only TWO per year. That is the limit of me and my team.

NT: I am sure the watches you have restored so far includes some of Girard-Perregaux. What is your impression or opinion on Girard-Perregaux now that you and the brand have agreed to join forces and collaborate with the manufacture?

Three Gold Bridge Tourbillon Pocket Watch

DL: I believe the timepiece is not products or merchandise but "work of art". Merchandise comes and goes as the time passes, but work of art stays. Girard-Perregaux is the manufacture which have been making watches for 220 years. To continue watchmaking for 220 years means it has been building and teaching know-how generation after generation. Watches that are made by such a company really can tell the stories. Seeing various Girard-Perregaux, I feel such a rich history of it. Take Opera series for example. I think these are what the real high-end complication watches should be. I like the chiming mechanism very much. Girard-Perregaux has been in the main stream in this complicated watches scene and I admire it very much.

NT: Now you have started working with Girard-Perregaux team, do you already have in mind what you want to accomplish?

DL: Of course, I do. When I met the current new CEO, Michel Sofisti, who I had known for more than 20 years, he asked me whether I could collaborate with Girard-Perregaux somehow. I had a particular idea in my mind. For the past 10 to 15 years, you may realize in the market that some brands introduce new complication models by just combining the old and sometimes outsourced base movement and existing complication "modules". I believe that will no longer be the way to make watches. The way I think about watchmaking going forward is, to make analogy of the high end cars, there are V12 level watches which includes as many complications as possible. V12 tends to be so limited in numbers and quite expensive, but V8 or V4 versions share the same DNA and may be for more collectors. So, we start from V12 and then subtract some complications and make V8 and V4..... I do not know why no one ever think of doing this way so far. Look at the fashion world. There are "Haute Couture" and then "Pret a Porter", right?

NT: I hear that the ones you are now working on with Girard-Perregaux team will be ready to show us very soon.

DL: Yes, it is. It is almost in the final stage. Early 2013, is the realistic estimate.

NT: Is the new model manufactured at Girard-Perregaux factory?

DL: The "V12" version is now being made at my atelier. At the same time, the work is progressing with Girard-Perregaux technical team who will manufacture it in the near future and who is working on the V8, V6 etc, series. This collaboration is a very deep one and it is not a "one-off" project, but more and more to come. It is important to work with Girard-Perregaux team and they are high quality team, so good that we decided to join the force. It is also important to note that even at the well known high-end complication watch brands lack the quality watchmakers. Girard-Perregaux has talented people and we are comfortable working with them. There are very few manufactures that I can work with on these high-complication projects.

NT: So, you will work on V8, V6, V4... and it will be the new series of Girard-Perregaux, correct?

DL: Yes, that is the fundamental of this collaboration relationship. I hope that this new series will help raise the reputation of Girard-Perregaux even higher and we will be involved in many more models as the time passes.

NT: Sorry to bother you many times with the same question. I have been asking this question since yesterday evening. Can you tell us how many complications you intend to put on the "V12" watch?

DL: Nah, I can't.

NT: Can you, then, tell us how many "V12" will be made?

DL: Yes, it will be 6. Note that the 6 will be made over the years. The first one will be ready to show you early next year. Also note that there are all unique. Each of them will tell a different story, gives everyone a dream. It is my wish to be a part of the long and brilliant history and legend of Girard-Perregaux. I am an artist and would love to hear the audience being impressed.

NT: Would love to see them here next year. Thank you very much today.

DL: Thank you. It has been my pleasure to be here.

==================================================================

Separately, I asked him a few additional questions:

PPro: Is this your first trip to Japan?

DL: No, this is the second time for business, and fifth or sixth time for personal. I like this country.

PPro: What attracted you to work with Girard-Perregaux?

DL: But of course, Girard-Perregaux is the brand which has continued to build its own in-house know-how for 220 years and that means it is capable of making new concept watches by themselves, it has the potential, resource and tools to make and challenge the new things. That is the major reason. It has the culture to respect the high-end, complicated, hand-made watches.

PPro: What are your favorite Girard-Perregaux watches?

DL: The famous Three Gold Bridge Tourbillon, Opera series, and WWTC. Each feels Girard-Perregaux DNA and very well designed.

====================================================================

My Special thanks go to:

Mr. Dominique Loiseau, Atelier Loiseau
Mr. Xavier Markl, Marketing Director, Girard-Perregaux
Ms. Tomoko Okabe, CEO, and the staff of Sowind Japan
Mr. Norio Takagi, Watch Journalist
Mr. Momoi and the staff of The Hour Glass, Ginza

Thanks for reading.
Please stay tuned for the Part 2 - the GP masterpieces including Opera series (with video!).

Ken
This message has been edited by dxboon on 2012-07-03 22:21:43 This message has been edited by dxboon on 2012-07-12 07:46:26

Key Points from the Discussion

The event highlighted Girard-Perregaux's commitment to moving beyond combining outsourced base movements and existing complication modules, signaling a shift towards stronger in-house offerings.
The initial production of the collaborative 'V12' range components is mainly handcrafted at Atelier Loiseau, with the GP team also involved to facilitate later series production at the GP factory.
A fellow collector had the opportunity to wear Dominique Loiseau's watch and found it to be an amazing piece, suggesting impressive surprises were in store from GP.
There is curiosity about whether the 'V12' range components are handcrafted and what after-service provisions will be for these high-end pieces.
There is speculation about the aesthetic direction of the 'V12' collection, questioning if it will be futuristic or more traditional, and hoping for a true concept piece.
The Hour Glass Ginza appears to maintain a strong relationship with Girard-Perregaux, as evidenced by hosting such events.

The Discussion

amanico

Jul 3, 2012

A phrase full of promises...

" For the past 10 to 15 years, you may realize in the market that some brands introduce new complication models by just combining the old and sometimes outsourced base movement and existing complication "modules". I believe that will no longer be the way to make watches". I have the feeling GP will come with some strong offers soon. I also have the pleasure to see that you met one good friend, and a true watch passionate, Xavier. Thanks for this very interesting article, Ken. Nicolas

KIH

Jul 3, 2012

Yes, it will come early next year....

.. be prepared for the "V12" engine high caliber super machine! I am personally looking forward to its offerings, too! Let us keep close eyes. Best, Ken

amanico

Jul 3, 2012

I am ready, yet. ;) [nt]

cory

Sep 17, 2012

V12 Machine

Is this likely to be 'futuristic' in aesthetics or more traditional? When I hear V12/V8? I hope it is quite the concept piece. 2013 should be exciting.

KIH

Sep 17, 2012

I think the outside may be more on the traditional side while..

... the complication is super high complication.... But this is just my guess. Yes, let us look forward the 2013 GP! Ken

cory

Sep 17, 2012

Sounds interesting....

I hope it is super high tech complication with exotic materials... I am thinking a 'new fresh' DNA than existing GP collection...

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