Vintage
Blomman Mr Blue's post delves into the fascinating variations of the Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Ref. 7254 dials, a model produced in limited numbers in 1957. This article synthesizes his observations and community contributions, offering a detailed look at the subtle yet significant differences that make each dial configuration unique and sought after by collectors.
Friends,
You all know I am working the Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver theme and the first generation Deep Diver reference 7254 is no exception!
For those of you that remember my review of the 7254 know that this watch was only in production during one year, 1957, and that only 500 pieces in total were made.
Today this would be considered a quite small Limited Edition!
Take for example the new Laureato 2016, Limited Edition of 225 pieces with blue dial and 225 pieces with white dial. A total of 450 pieces.
As far I know the concept of Limited Editions were not in play back in 1957…
And even if the Deep Diver 7254 was limited to only 500 pieces, Girard-Perregaux managed to divide the production into several different versions!
Here is my Deep Diver 7254: White dial with applied steel indexes and steel dauphin hands.
Maybe not the best contrast for a divers watch, but very charming…
Love the cool hue of the watch and the red 100 FATHOMS is the cherry on the cake!
Here is CC’s black dial version (before cleaning):
Better contrast and we all know the traditional color of divers is black.
Still the same applied steel indexes and steel dauphin hands.
The text looks like gilt and the depth rating is in the same color…
Even if black is a traditional color for this kind of watch, my guess is that there was very few of the black dial version ever made.
The third dial version is another white dial.
Here, again CC’s watch. White dial with V-shaped steel indexes and steel dauphin hands:
Now the dial actually looks more like a divers watch!
Larger luminous areas on the dial and also on the hands.
Even if this example has been improved, we do know it existed.
Here is a document posted by PeterCDE showing this dial:
Now to the forth dial version of the Deep Diver 7254.
First I like to send a big thank you to the PuristS friend that made me aware of this version. Thank you!
This forth version of the 7254 is also white, with the same applied indexes and dauphin hands…
BUT… In gold!?
OK, so here we have a white dialed “divers watch” with no turning bezel, no screw in crown and only tiny luminous markers on indexes and hands…
And the indexes and hands are in gold!
Crazy as it sounds, the gold index version have better contrast and probably have a better visibility down below…
I must say that I love to uncover the mysteries of vintage Girard-Perregaux!
So, of the 500 pieces there were (at least) four different dial version!
Unfortunately there are no records of how many versions or how many of each version was made…
Who knows, maybe we will find more dial versions while we uncover the history of the Deep Diver here!
Until then, let’s finish with a side-by-side shot of the two: Silver and Gold!
Hope you enjoyed and that you will keep following me in to the depth of heritage of the brand.
Best
Blomman
The Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk reference 7254 represents an early iteration of the brand's dive watch offerings, notable for its "Deep Diver" designation and distinctive dial configuration. This particular reference is recognized for its initial water resistance rating of 100 fathoms (180 meters) without employing a screw-down crown, a characteristic of early skin diver designs. The presence of the triangle index dial further distinguishes certain examples of this reference, contributing to its appeal among collectors. It stands as a foundational piece in the Sea Hawk lineage, predating later iterations with rotating bezels.
The watch features a robust 35mm case, which often presents with a larger wrist presence than its dimensions suggest. The case back is screwed down, securing the internal mechanism. Powering the reference 7254 is the Girard-Perregaux Caliber 19, an early generation Gyromatic movement. This movement is characterized by its small seconds complication, a detail that aligns with the aesthetic and technical preferences of the period. The crystal type for this reference is typically acrylic, consistent with dive watches of its era.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in the evolution of dive watches and early examples from established manufacturers. Its design, characterized by the absence of a rotating bezel and the specific dial variations, positions it as a significant early skin diver. The relative rarity of certain dial configurations, such as the triangle index, enhances its collectibility. The 7254 provides insight into Girard-Perregaux's initial approach to water-resistant timepieces before the widespread adoption of more advanced dive watch features.
Very informative article... the heart goes for the white dial with silver applied markers ! By far, \'no-date\' version is a showstopper by any means !!
Yes,he siver index version is a joy on the wrist! Best Blomman
Slowely but steady we will uncover the hidden treasures of GP! Best Blomman
the gold index was a real surprise, didn't expect that. But then, we also saw a gold bezel 2nd Gen. Deep Diver. Very nice artivce, next time, we should do a family shot of all 7254s CC
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