Vintage
Blomman Mr Blue introduces his first-generation Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver, reference 7254, a significant acquisition for his collection. His post not only showcases this rare vintage diver but also provides a valuable overview of the four Deep Diver generations, highlighting key design evolutions.
Friends,
Please let me present to you my first generation Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver, the reference 7254.
With help from a dear friend I finally have been able to add a first generation Deep Diver!
But before we go into the watch, let me explain the differences between the four generations.
First generation: No turning bezel, no enhanced luminous markers.
This watch, the 7254
Second generation: One piece metal turning bezel, some enhancement of the luminous markers.
Example: the 7897
Third generation: Turning metal bezel with inlay, enhanced luminous markers.
Example: the 8867
Fourth generation: Internal turning bezel, enhanced luminous markers.
Example: the 9108
OK, so back to the watch in question: the reference 7254 had only one year of production, 1957.
What is a bit puzzling is that at this point Girard-Perregaux already had the Sea Hawk line.
Why introduce a second water watch line?
The answer may be because; one, the Sea Hawk line had manual movements and GP wanted to separate between this new line of automatic movements.
Two, the Sea Hawk was not really waterproof down to any great depths.
The watch looks quite similar to other GP Gyromatic’s from that time, just a bit stronger.
Applied numerals and indexes are of steel and the only luminous material on the dial is the small dots at each index and a slightly larger triangle at the numbers.
Steel Dauphin hands with a thin line of luminous material along the hand.
It can’t have been easy to read the watch in deep water!
Gyromatic reference 6766, print ad from 1957:
What surprise me a bit is that Girard-Perregaux opted for a sub-second on the Deep Diver instead of a central second as on most Gyromatic’s from the late 1950s.
But I don’t mind since here we have a couple of cool details!
For the first time the name Deep Diver is used. Notice the way it is written: “DEEP-DIVER” with a dash.
Another cool detail is the depth rating in red, 100 Fathoms (approx. 182 meters) almost the same as the JLC Deep Sea Alarm which came two years later with a waterproof of 200 meters.
My guess is that they wanted to show people that they were serious, so they made a watch capable of the doubled of the Blacpain at this point…!
The case is stronger and bigger than the regular Gyromatic from the late 50s.
Slightly bigger, but not much. Mostly shown on the somewhat wider bezel and thicker lugs.
36 millimeter in diameter and 11 millimeters thick including the reinforced plexi.
To achieve the waterproof of 100 Fathoms there is a screw-down case back.
The crown is not a screw-down crown but a bit larger than the normal Gyromatic crown.
Inside is the automatic GP Caliber 19, 18.000 vph which is based on the Peseux 310.
In total Girard-Perregaux made 500 pieces of the 7254, all in steel.
Both black and white dial existed and at least two different dial styles.
Retail price in 1957 was CHF 195.
And on the wrist? A SUPER COOL WATCH!
I fear this one will “hog” a lot of wrist time this year!
Hope you enjoyed this vintage report!
Best
Blomman
The Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk reference 7254 represents an early iteration of the brand's dive watch offerings, notable for its "Deep Diver" designation and distinctive dial configuration. This particular reference is recognized for its initial water resistance rating of 100 fathoms (180 meters) without employing a screw-down crown, a characteristic of early skin diver designs. The presence of the triangle index dial further distinguishes certain examples of this reference, contributing to its appeal among collectors. It stands as a foundational piece in the Sea Hawk lineage, predating later iterations with rotating bezels.
The watch features a robust 35mm case, which often presents with a larger wrist presence than its dimensions suggest. The case back is screwed down, securing the internal mechanism. Powering the reference 7254 is the Girard-Perregaux Caliber 19, an early generation Gyromatic movement. This movement is characterized by its small seconds complication, a detail that aligns with the aesthetic and technical preferences of the period. The crystal type for this reference is typically acrylic, consistent with dive watches of its era.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in the evolution of dive watches and early examples from established manufacturers. Its design, characterized by the absence of a rotating bezel and the specific dial variations, positions it as a significant early skin diver. The relative rarity of certain dial configurations, such as the triangle index, enhances its collectibility. The 7254 provides insight into Girard-Perregaux's initial approach to water-resistant timepieces before the widespread adoption of more advanced dive watch features.
And the dial is another very nice detail, too. Bravo! Funny to see that in 1957, GP decided to go for a diving watch without bezel.... While other brands, since 1953 / 1954 introduced this important feature in their watches... Best, my friend. Nicolas.
Turning bezel was not introduced on the Deep Diver until 1961 - the 7897. Thank you, my friend. This one makes me very happy! Best Blomman
Well deserved to have this one added to your collection. In celebration, I quick jetted to Stockholm and took a side-by-side shot with my 1st Gen Deep Diver CC
Thank you, my friend! Best Blomman
The little man is feeling better, I presume? This watch really cries out "Serious. Sport. Watch." And every bit of it is a GP. You found a real winner here, friend.
Yes, the little man is better, but I guess he will bring home something new soon.... This is the first serious sports watch from GP - 1957! Best Blomman
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