
WHL presents a quick-look review of the Cartier Tortue XL with Large Date and Small Seconds, a noteworthy release from SIHH 2013. He highlights its distinctive design, masculine sizing, and the appeal of its petite complications, positioning it as a modern heir to the esteemed CPCP collection. This article offers a detailed perspective on a Cartier model that often flies under the radar.
It’s time to spread the love!
MTF, foversta, and I, among others, have been raving about the Cartiers new
Tank models, both the Louis Cartier Extra-flat as well as the Tank MC. The
praise is very much deserved, but perhaps it has gotten repetitive.
With MTF having given us a preview of the SIHH 2014 introduction of the small
and medium Tortue, both of which feature hand wound mechanical movement:
cartier.watchprosite.com
I wanted to focus on a little-talked about novelty from SIHH2013: The Tortue XL
with Large Date and Small Seconds

Cartier dates the Tortue (tortoise) case, a Loius Cartier design, to 1912, and
it helped the wristwatch to break away from the roundness that early
wristwatches had inherited from the world of pocket watces. The modern Tortue
XL has a highly polished rose gold case and a masculine size of 38 mm x 48 mm.
The form case makes it wear like a 40 mm watch.
The screw emblem on the side of the case is a unique Cartier touch:

The dial has all of the hallmarks that define a Cartier timepiece. The silver
dial, here with an inner textured pattern, has well-defined Roman numbers along
the exterior of the dial and easily legible blue steel Breguet style hands. The
large date at 12 o’clock makes the date easy to read, and the recessed
small seconds at 6 have a typical snailing finish.

There is a depth and texture to these petite complication Cartier pieces that
is really appealing;
Cartier caliber 9602 MC animates the watch, and it is visible through the
sapphire crystal case back.

It comes to Cartier exclusive use by way of JLC, and features an older
decoration style that is charming, though probably should evolve to a more
classical Geneva
wave decoration to compete better against similar watches like the Vacheron
Constantin Malte Small Seconds or Breguet Heritage.
This is a very wearable watch!

Also available in white gold, I think it sings most beautifully in the rose.
I often find myself most attracted to the Cartier watches that are made with
extreme refinement combined with masculine size, but with a more classic look
than is found in many pieces from the Fine Watchmaking collection. A number of
them would have been found in the CPCP collection (Cartier Paris Collection
Privee) from the past. The Tortue XL has all the quality and presence of those
CPCP timepieces, and still retains the classic Cartier look that I adore. I
don’t expect Cartier to make many Tortue XL, so give it your consideration
before it is gone.
Bill
It almost seems small on your wrist so I think they got the balance right for the watch to wear smaller while maintaining the presence. Thanks for the great review. Bill
'Balance' seems to be the core virtue of Cartier Horlogerie. I am a long admirer of the Tortue watches. This XL version has particular appeal as its bezel offers sufficient real estate to make the gold really shine. My only concern is that the date does not match the height of the numerals. But this is an aspect I would have to investigate in real life, i.e. with the watch at hand. May I dream of a jumping hour regulator in the Tortue (XL) case? Cheers, Magnus
I'd be thrilled to wear this piece regularly (though I think I'm going to have to get the itch I have for the Tank models scratched first). Bill
;-) Cheers, Magnus
I like it! Thanks for sharing Bill. Strangely, I can say many watches are elegant and classic, timeless, etc (i used these terms alot) but I find this Cartier Tortue XL all of that plus it's charming. cheers robin
I have almost always purchased round watches, and even if the case of a watch might be described as tonneau, the dials have been round, muting the effect. There is a novelty aspect for a form case that appeals to my desire for something new. Bill
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