Bulgari Baselworld 2013 Releases

Pingtsai offers a retrospective on Bulgari's 2013 Baselworld releases, highlighting the brand's commitment to its heritage while embracing innovation. The author particularly focuses on the introduction of the Il Giardino Tropicale di Bulgari, a significant step for women's high horology.

Taking a Closer Look at Bulgari at BaselWorld 2013

Now that all the new Bulgari watches for this year’s BaselWorld have been revealed, we can take a closer look at the individual pieces to make comparative judgments and personal comments. This year’s releases from the Italian designer consisted of a diverse mix of different looks, materials and movements with a few highlights that are definitely worth commenting on. With the new watches that we are presented with this season, one thing is certain – Bulgari is sticking to its roots while also having a bit of fun by mixing it up and giving us glimpses of master watch-making in the spotlight.

For the Ladies

Bulgari has always done a good job with focusing on women, but primarily with jewelry and accessories. This year we are fortunate to get our very own tourbillon watch! Il Giardino Tropicale di Bulgari is an exquisite piece that showcases both sophisticated technical complication and the finest artistic craftsmanship. To receive the very best of both dimensions in a single watch is rare and a statement reflective of how Bulgari places women in the highest regard.

Two years ago we asked Bulgari attendants at IGOTT2 if they had plans to introduce women’s watches with higher complications. At the time they said it was likely and now we witness the materialization of what were mere hints and hopeful reactions that circulated the room. The Giardino is so intelligent in its design and construction. If women are not impressed by the tourbillon feature, they will surely be of the colorful intricate dial. Housed inside a familiar BVLGARI BVLGARI case, it makes the impulse to like it or wear it not such a radical one.

The dial-work is reminiscent of a stained glass window whose subject matter continues along the wildlife theme, portraying the exoticism of the Bulgari female persona. The delicate metal-work on the dial both complements and contrasts with the sophisticated and technical metal-work of the tourbillon cage. The Giardino is a true development for Bulgari carrying them several steps forward in the overall horologic positioning of the brand.

The Catene

The BVLGARI BVLGARI Catene combines classic watch design and one of the things that the company does best which is jewelry. The look is distinctly Roman, feminine and offers an all-metal alternative to bracelet watches and the Serpenti that’s slightly more open and loose in fit. The watch is offered with a pink gold bracelet or a bracelet fitted with diamonds on every other link. The diamond version adds a bit of sparkle to the watch as a whole. The dial is mother-of-pearl and consists of 12 brilliant cut diamonds that serve as the hour markers.

The watch incorporates a number of different themes from Bulgari’s past into one watch. The Catene is inspired by the “gourmette” (name-plate bracelet) but modernized by Bulgari as a wrap bracelet with a watch case. It also builds upon the historically significant design idea of linking a coin-shaped motif to a chain. The Catene is another example of Bulgari’s talent for updating looks that were once popular in the past, making them current and relevant to the tastes that women prefer today. They are skilled at selecting individual sources of inspiration and developing those ideas into distinctive pieces that females want to wear.

Bulgari Commedia dell’Arte

Bulgari’s Commedia dell’Arte watches are a series of limited edition minute repeaters depicting a scene from a 16th century Italian palazzo with theatrical characters in the foreground. The collection consists of three versions (Brighella, Pulcinella and Harlequin) each with a different character and location (Venice, Naples and Bologna).

The Commedia dell’Arte is not only an impressive collection of watches, as all minute repeaters tend to be, but they certainly are curious creations as well since the watches pair a somewhat traditional scene and motif for the dials with a contemporary case. The case is taken from the Bulgari Magsonic Grande Sonnerie and is crafted in 18kt white gold and Magsonic which is an alloy that optimizes the resonance of the piece.

Looking at the case and the knobs that circle it and hold it together, along with the horizontal curved lugs and textured crown, the watch has an extremely modern, almost futuristic looking exterior. The case frames a scene that dates back to the 16th century. It is almost like seeing George Washington step out of a Lamborghini. It may not necessarily make sense but it is intriguing.

Another point of contrast is in the choice for case material which is white gold. With the Magsonic alloy the color is slightly cold and contrasts with the warm vibrant scene on the dial. One has to wonder why yellow or pink gold wasn’t used like in the Magsonic Grande Sonnerie.

Bulgari presents a cathedral gong Minute Repeater with two hammers for Commedia dell’Arte. The gongs are unique in that they are longer than standard gongs: the steel wire wraps around inside the case twice instead of just once. This generates a deeper sound and amplifies the resonance of the mechanism. Also notable is the exquisite miniature painting and carving that is reflected in the automatons (moving figures). The fact that it takes three to five weeks to paint one dial is impressive in itself.

Stainless Steel Octo

The Octo is given new appeal with a stainless steel bracelet and Eric Bana’s wrist. I can imagine that men who like wearing watches with metal bands will be drawn to this watch. It offers a less traditional option for a traditional way to wear a watch. The geometric shapes and facets of the case modernize the watch and are extended through to the bracelet. The individual links fit together along with flexible panels to create flat surfaces at different angles that conform to the curve of your wrist. The links are relatively narrow so more are needed in making up the curve. The more links you have, the better likelihood there will be for a comfortable and good fit. 

If the comfort of Serpenti bracelets is any indication of Bulgari’s ability to construct timepiece bracelets that not only look good but feel good too, then there is a great likelihood that the Stainless Steel Octo will deliver the same ease and enjoyment in wear. Octo’s 110 separate facets are all meticulously worked by hand, with alternating polished and brushed finishes. Seeing that “8” is such a desirable number in the Asian culture, it can be obvious how the Octo would have a great selling feature in Asian markets with its eight faceted edges of the case. The Octo is without a doubt a harmonious piece and well-balanced in its appearance. Often watch bands can detract from the look of a watch case and the watch as a whole but in this case, the new stainless steel bracelet perfectly complements the geometric styling.

Bulgari’s press release states that the number “8” “corresponds to infinity in mathematics as well as to unchanging eternity” and “symbolizes the totality of the universe” in China. I’m not completely sure of the accuracy of this. The number “8” in Chinese culture is actually significant and desirable because it is symbolic of wealth, prosperity and fortune. “Infinity” and “eternity” are more closely represented by numbers like “6” and “9” which are usually used to reflect longevity and long life.

The New BVLGARI BVLGARI

For people who own a BVLGARI BVLGARI, it is like owning a significant piece of Italian design history, especially for the brand itself. But even icons need to evolve if they are to remain alive and relevant. The new BVLGARI BVLGARI experiences a few slight changes and gets a fresh look that keeps it updated. It provides bait to attract new patrons and gives reason to bring back old ones. When companies redesign a watch, owners of previous models are often tempted to upgrade. Even if the new model is not significantly more attractive or better in performance, there seems to be appeal in things that are “new”. This may even hold true for other things too like cars, cell phones and fashion. Change is always important in business because it attracts attention. Even if the attention is short-lived, it ties you over until the next redesign or new idea.

Redesigns of the BVLGARI BVLGARI are good moves by Bulgari because previous models were beginning to look more and more like checker pieces as time went by. The new model is equipped with the new mechanical self-winding Calibre BVL 191 which Bulgari developed and produced in-house. It has a 42-hour power reserve and hours, minutes, seconds functions as well as an instant date display at 3 o’clock. There have been subtle changes over the years, not all noticeable. The mechanical movement has been enhanced with sophisticated complications like the tourbillon.      

The ergonomics of the case have also evolved: the back was reinterpreted with a highly sophisticated curvature to ensure it molded perfectly to the wrist. The dial has retained its distinctive markers at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock, but has grown progressively larger and easier to read, while harmonious shapes for the horns have been designed to make them fit more perfectly with the strap. Meanwhile, the famous bezel has been made slightly narrower so that elegance of the double logo stands out even more.

Redesigning such an iconic watch is a formidable task to say the least. There is always a risk of losing the originally identity and essence of the watch which should always be retained in order to hold on to the familiarity which attracted people to the piece to begin with. That is not a concern in this case due to Bulgari’s masterful hand in bridging design from different eras as well as integrating looks from different identities (i.e. Gerald Genta Octo and BVLGARI BVLGARI dial). They are true experts at knowing what to incorporate and what to leave behind and so far, their attempts have paid off. 

What are your opinions of the new watches from Bulgari this year? Do you have any favorites?