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Moka-Tiger (Ron) shares his meticulous decision-making process behind acquiring an older-version Breguet Aeronavale Type XX 3800. His detailed rationale highlights the enduring appeal of specific design elements and proportions that resonate with traditionalist collectors. This article delves into why certain vintage-inspired choices continue to captivate enthusiasts in the luxury watch community.
Being a Breguet fan, I had been looking quite a while for a Breguet aviation watch to go with my 2 Breguet dress watches. I tried on and compared different metals, sizes, and styles. Making a decision took a lot of time, but in the end this one is my choice because:
The dial looks simpler (cleaner) than the looks of dials on other models, especially because there is no date function, something that I never use and feel is a distraction that clutters dials IMO. (Once seen it cannot be "unseen".) The 39mm case is a perfect "Goldilocks" size, not too big, not too small. The pure white hands (vs patina, silver, metal, greenish, etc.) against the matt black dial make it super easy to read the time. There are no "chopped off" numbers on the dial. It is an SS and not a dressy precious metal. It has a shiny/polished finish that adds some bling and a touch of fine watch-making to a basic black-dial SS sports watch. I am a traditionalist of sorts and this 3800's retro charm and iconic Breguet look were the most appealing to me overall. For lack of a better word, it looks "cute". (Ha ha!)
I understand well that everyone has their own personal tastes and preferences, and this watch would not be everyone’s choice, of course. While I liked other models that I saw and tried, I continued to look at this one again and again.
I enjoy being here and reading about everyone's likes, dislikes, wants, needs, etc. when it comes to owning watches. Thanks for reading and HAGWE everyone.
The Patek Philippe reference 3800, introduced in 1981 and available from 1982, represents a significant evolution of the Nautilus line. Positioned as a mid-size alternative to the original reference 3700, it offered a more versatile wearing experience while retaining the distinctive porthole-inspired case design. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus to feature an in-house automatic movement, marking a shift in Patek Philippe's manufacturing strategy for the model. It was produced until 2006, allowing for a wide array of material and dial variations over its production run.
The case of the reference 3800 measures 37.5 mm in diameter, a reduction from the larger 3700. It was produced in various metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, often paired with integrated bracelets or leather straps. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 330 SC, which features a central rotor and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers water resistance suitable for daily wear.
For collectors, the reference 3800 appeals to those seeking a more understated and wearable Nautilus compared to its larger predecessor. Its long production period resulted in numerous dial configurations, including black, blue, and white, with different hour marker styles. The 3800/1A-001 and 3800/1A-XII are specific stainless steel variants that highlight the model's enduring appeal in its original material. Its status as the first Nautilus with an in-house movement also adds to its historical importance within the brand's catalog.
And fully agree on the no date version 😁👍🏻
A d even when I have one in white gold I’m pretty sure I’ll add one in steel one day. With some luck you can find a nice example for the same price as a Tudor Chronograph from your AF I mean … comme on… a steel breguet chrono or a black bay chrono ??
I also prefer nodate versions! Also with this watch! However - when I bought mine almost 20years ago, I was also seduced by the brushed bezel, the high-gloss dial and turned out subdials, the beautiful indexes and the steal hands! Finally I decided against the no-date version. There are compromises in everything… 🤷🏼♂️😂 Anyway, still love mine as well… 💕🤩 And sometimes, the date window (which is at least integrated not that badly) cannot be seen that well… 😅
her cousin says hi 😊
I like the slender bezel and smaller raised numbers. Plus the case size is good-ish for me, 3803
For me personally the bigger problem is the crazy thickness of the watch case and - more importantly - the movement. The finishing of that movement isn’t immediately saying haute horlogerie. The bevels should be wider and hence more visible. It’s also sad that they went with a vertical clutch. A horizontal clutch would have been more beautiful and would add a loot of perceived value because the movement would look much more visually appealing. Another lost chance for Breguet to make the Type 20/
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