Breguet Type XX vs. Type XXI Chronograph

de Owar · 2015-10-24T14:36:46Z

Debate: Breguet Type XX (3800 Aéronavale) vs. Type XXI. Collectors discuss aesthetics, movements, and wearability to help de Owar choose his first mechanical chronograph.

de Owar

WPS member · Breguet forum

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De Owar seeks community guidance on choosing between the Breguet Type XX (3800 Aéronavale) and Type XXI, aiming to acquire a first mechanical chronograph. This discussion highlights the historical significance of the Type XX as an original pilot's watch versus the Type XXI's enhanced dial details, prompting a debate among collectors about aesthetics, wearability, and movement characteristics.

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Hi All,

Since I've decided that my very first mechanical chronograph should've been a Breguet Type XX-XXI, I've read almost everything on this topic here. Truly great forum, I do appreciate your passionate expertise!

The sweetest debate of mine is quite simple: I do know that the Breguet Type XX (3800 Aéronavale) was the ORIGINAL pilot watch in the 50's and this is still the tool watch of Breguet, very different from anything else they make recently, BUT the XXI has a bit more Breguet with those very fine details on the dial. Of course one would easily recommend to try them both, but my local AD just has a Type XXII, and offered a very fair price if he orders my choice of preference from the manufacturer. I also contacted a mono-brand boutique hundreds of kilometres away, but they have neither the steal 3810 nor the 3800 Aéronavale.

So, what would you choose, and why? Any help and opinions on these models would be highly appreciated!

Regards,

de Owar

stock photos from Breguet

This message has been edited by de Owar on 2015-10-24 14:55:56

About the Breguet Type XX Aéronavale Ref. 3800

The Patek Philippe reference 3800, introduced in 1981 and available from 1982, represents a significant evolution of the Nautilus line. Positioned as a mid-size alternative to the original reference 3700, it offered a more versatile wearing experience while retaining the distinctive porthole-inspired case design. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus to feature an in-house automatic movement, marking a shift in Patek Philippe's manufacturing strategy for the model. It was produced until 2006, allowing for a wide array of material and dial variations over its production run.

The case of the reference 3800 measures 37.5 mm in diameter, a reduction from the larger 3700. It was produced in various metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, often paired with integrated bracelets or leather straps. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 330 SC, which features a central rotor and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers water resistance suitable for daily wear.

For collectors, the reference 3800 appeals to those seeking a more understated and wearable Nautilus compared to its larger predecessor. Its long production period resulted in numerous dial configurations, including black, blue, and white, with different hour marker styles. The 3800/1A-001 and 3800/1A-XII are specific stainless steel variants that highlight the model's enduring appeal in its original material. Its status as the first Nautilus with an in-house movement also adds to its historical importance within the brand's catalog.

Specifications

Caliber: 330 SC

Case: Stainless Steel

Diameter: 37.5 mm

Dial: Black

Water Resist.: 100m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Type XXI Titanium version is highly favored for its tool watch character, with its brushed titanium case and bracelet offering a negligible 'bling-bling' factor, unlike the shinier steel models.
The Type XX (3800) is praised for its classic design, lack of unnecessary text or date on the dial, and its movement, which was highly regarded by watch mechanics.
The Type XX's standard strap with deployant can feel too narrow at the clasp, making the watch seem dainty, and its top-heavy nature can cause it to slide on the wrist.
The Type XX Transatlantique is preferred by some for its polished steel hands and indexes, brushed bezel, and date function, offering a blend of the Type XX's harmonic lines with additional details.
The chronograph pushers on the Breguet 3800 can be difficult to operate, which might diminish enthusiasm despite the watch's otherwise perfect appearance.
The Type XXI with a chocolate brown dial appeared much lighter in reality than in press photos, leading some collectors to prefer the Type XX Transatlantique instead.

The Discussion

amanico

Oct 24, 2015

I would go for the Type XX, not only because it doesn't have a date, but also...

Because I find the dial more harmonious, related to the size of the case. With the Type XXI, the subdials are too centered, which reveals the fact that the movement is a bit lost in this oversized case. Just my opinion... Best, Nicolas

de Owar

Oct 25, 2015

Thank you Nicolas

I\'m going through your previous posts about the Aéronavale, very interesting indeed!

KMII

Oct 24, 2015

My personal preference would also be the Type XX

For the lacking date, the slightly smaller size and the more classical chronograph arrangement. The XXI, while not as complicated to read as a Type XXII is not so pure IMHO but it does have a lovely ruthenium dial and the curved strap ends that fit the case are a nice touch, too.

de Owar

Oct 25, 2015

Thanks KMII

+one for Type XX. Purists probably would choose this option for those reasons you mentioned with Nicolas!

KMII

Oct 25, 2015

Don't get me wrong

Whichever one you choose, you will probably be very happy - neither one is anything but a good choice

de Owar

Oct 25, 2015

It's tough, indeed! [nt]