Breguet Type XX vs. Type XXI Chronograph

The Breguet Type XX Aéronavale reference 3810 represents the brand's approach to pilot-style chronograph construction within the Aéronavale series. This reference delivers the core Type XX design language in a 39mm format with automatic movement operation.

The 3810 features a 39mm stainless steel case fitted with sapphire crystal and a fixed bezel configuration. The black dial provides contrast against the steel case construction. Water resistance extends to 100 meters. The automatic movement eliminates manual winding requirements while maintaining chronograph functionality.

This reference targets collectors seeking Breguet's interpretation of aviation-inspired chronograph design in a mid-size case format. The stainless steel construction and automatic movement position the 3810 as an accessible entry point within the Type XX Aéronavale lineup, appealing to those who prioritize daily wearability over precious metal complications.

The Patek Philippe reference 3800, introduced in 1981 and available from 1982, represents a significant evolution of the Nautilus line. Positioned as a mid-size alternative to the original reference 3700, it offered a more versatile wearing experience while retaining the distinctive porthole-inspired case design. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus to feature an in-house automatic movement, marking a shift in Patek Philippe's manufacturing strategy for the model. It was produced until 2006, allowing for a wide array of material and dial variations over its production run.

The case of the reference 3800 measures 37.5 mm in diameter, a reduction from the larger 3700. It was produced in various metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, often paired with integrated bracelets or leather straps. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 330 SC, which features a central rotor and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers water resistance suitable for daily wear.

For collectors, the reference 3800 appeals to those seeking a more understated and wearable Nautilus compared to its larger predecessor. Its long production period resulted in numerous dial configurations, including black, blue, and white, with different hour marker styles. The 3800/1A-001 and 3800/1A-XII are specific stainless steel variants that highlight the model's enduring appeal in its original material. Its status as the first Nautilus with an in-house movement also adds to its historical importance within the brand's catalog.