Breguet Type 20, Type XX New Release Hands-On
New Release

Breguet Type 20, Type XX New Release Hands-On

By shortys home · Jun 9, 2023 · 24 replies
shortys home
WPS member · Breguet forum
24 replies9114 views12 photos
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Henrik, known as shortys home, provides an invaluable first look at Breguet's new Type 20 and Type XX models. His candid live shots and initial impressions from Wempe in Hamburg offer a crucial, unfiltered perspective on these highly anticipated releases, allowing collectors to assess the watches beyond official press materials. This article synthesizes community reactions to his hands-on review, exploring key design choices and their reception among enthusiasts.

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I had the chance to not only handle the two new watches but also take a few photos when I visited Wempe in Hamburg today.

As you all know light conditions in a showroom are not favorable for taking photos, so those aren’t great but hopefully give you an idea of the two watches and some of their details.


























Let me add my very personal impressions of these two. First, the 42mm wear comparatively small due to the rather short lugs, which are executed very beautifully.

The straps are well done, have a good feel to them, and the tang buckle is unique and nicely executed.

Talking about the quality impression: the cases, the bezels, the crowns, the dials and hands show the immaculate execution you would rightfully expect from Breguet.

The one component that was a bit of a downer to me is the crystal. I have loved the superdomed crystal of the 3800 and 3820 and I would have hoped for a more extrovert crystal shape with these vintage inspired new models.

The two timepieces are very distinct from each other, so there’s a real choice.

The movement I could not inspect with a loupe, so nothing to say here.

The design of the dial and particularly the date placement has already been discussed passionately, so I will not go there. All I can say is that the date is as obvious in reality as in the press photos.

Hope you liked these first mediocre live impressions.

Cheers
Henrik

About the Breguet Type XX Aéronavale Ref. 3800

The Patek Philippe reference 3800, introduced in 1981 and available from 1982, represents a significant evolution of the Nautilus line. Positioned as a mid-size alternative to the original reference 3700, it offered a more versatile wearing experience while retaining the distinctive porthole-inspired case design. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus to feature an in-house automatic movement, marking a shift in Patek Philippe's manufacturing strategy for the model. It was produced until 2006, allowing for a wide array of material and dial variations over its production run.

The case of the reference 3800 measures 37.5 mm in diameter, a reduction from the larger 3700. It was produced in various metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, often paired with integrated bracelets or leather straps. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 330 SC, which features a central rotor and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers water resistance suitable for daily wear.

For collectors, the reference 3800 appeals to those seeking a more understated and wearable Nautilus compared to its larger predecessor. Its long production period resulted in numerous dial configurations, including black, blue, and white, with different hour marker styles. The 3800/1A-001 and 3800/1A-XII are specific stainless steel variants that highlight the model's enduring appeal in its original material. Its status as the first Nautilus with an in-house movement also adds to its historical importance within the brand's catalog.

Specifications

Caliber
330 SC
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
37.5 mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
100m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MO
Motty
Jun 9, 2023
Thank you for your report!!

“My opinion only” too busy dial, the sub dials should of been somehow lighter not to look too busy. The numerals I love the colors but I’m not the biggest fan of this don’t, especially for Breguet which should of been Breguet numerals.

GU
gunungbesarsekali
Jun 9, 2023
Thanks for the pics

I like the civilian try this when available in my ad

SP
Spangles - Dr. Tabby
Jun 9, 2023
The new movement is a huge story which has attracted less attention than it should, I think.

SH
shortys home
Jun 9, 2023
It is. It would have not been appropriate to remove the stickers on a brand new watch waiting for a customer, that’s why I was not able to show it in detail.

SP
Spangles - Dr. Tabby
Jun 9, 2023
Oh, I meant no critique of you! Just commenting on the watch.

I'm glad you posted and the pictures are very welcome. I should have said that in my post, my apologies!

SH
shortys home
Jun 9, 2023
No need to apologize! I would have wished to get closer to the movement, fortunately Breguet tells us a lot about it.

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