Breguet Type XX 3800 Aeronavale Vintage Guide

drricook · 2022-06-12T10:19:40Z

Considering a Breguet Type XX Aéronavale Ref. 3800? Collectors debate the importance of box/papers versus dial condition and originality for this vintage chronograph.

drricook

WPS member · Breguet forum

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Richard (drricook) initiates a crucial discussion for collectors eyeing the early Breguet Type XX Aéronavale Ref. 3800. He seeks community wisdom on the importance of original box and papers for these circa 1996/97 chronographs, especially when balanced against finding a pristine dial. This thread offers invaluable insights into the nuances of acquiring a vintage 3800, highlighting what truly matters to seasoned collectors.

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Dear connoisseurs-I am looking to add an early 3800 Aeronovale to my small collection. My question to collectors is given these date from around 1996/7, how much importance do you attach to the box/papers and original accessories? Or, put another way, if you found one with a fantastic dial, could you overlook the absence of these (if the price was right and you had no concerns over authenticity).

Random photo of a gorgeous dial:

It would be great to hear the thoughts of those more experienced than myself.

Many thanks,

Richard

About the Breguet Type XX Aéronavale Ref. 3800

The Patek Philippe reference 3800, introduced in 1981 and available from 1982, represents a significant evolution of the Nautilus line. Positioned as a mid-size alternative to the original reference 3700, it offered a more versatile wearing experience while retaining the distinctive porthole-inspired case design. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus to feature an in-house automatic movement, marking a shift in Patek Philippe's manufacturing strategy for the model. It was produced until 2006, allowing for a wide array of material and dial variations over its production run.

The case of the reference 3800 measures 37.5 mm in diameter, a reduction from the larger 3700. It was produced in various metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, often paired with integrated bracelets or leather straps. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 330 SC, which features a central rotor and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers water resistance suitable for daily wear.

For collectors, the reference 3800 appeals to those seeking a more understated and wearable Nautilus compared to its larger predecessor. Its long production period resulted in numerous dial configurations, including black, blue, and white, with different hour marker styles. The 3800/1A-001 and 3800/1A-XII are specific stainless steel variants that highlight the model's enduring appeal in its original material. Its status as the first Nautilus with an in-house movement also adds to its historical importance within the brand's catalog.

Specifications

Caliber: 330 SC

Case: Stainless Steel

Diameter: 37.5 mm

Dial: Black

Water Resist.: 100m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The aesthetic appeal of the early tritium dials, particularly their patina, is a primary draw. Key indicators of earlier models include thinner bezels with finer script, an uncrossed 'T' in the Breguet logo, a gold-capped crown, 200m water resistance, and numerals at 5, 15, and 25 on the minute counter.
While the watch's condition is paramount, ensuring all parts are original and correct for the serial number is vital for an early 3800. Collectors should scrutinize hands, bezels, and the deployant clasp. An intact tritium triangle on the bezel is also a desirable feature.
Breguet service centers cannot guarantee the preservation of original tritium hands or dials on early 3800 models, as brittle tritium may necessitate replacement. Similarly, a damaged gold-capped crown thread will be replaced with a standard one, impacting originality.
One collector recounts a positive experience acquiring a desired 3800 (yellowing dial, uncrossed 't', gold-capped crown, 200m WR) without box or papers due to a 'very right' price, emphasizing that the watch's intrinsic qualities can outweigh the absence of a full set.
Prioritizing the best possible condition of the watch itself over a complete 'set' in lesser condition is generally advisable. While a full set is appealing, its value as proof of authenticity is sometimes overstated, especially for watches where papers offer little specific detail beyond a box.

The Discussion

amanico

Jun 12, 2022

I would not pay too much attention to the full set IF the watch you are considering comes in superb shape with a sublime dial.

Boris

Jun 12, 2022

I would second Nico's opinion

shortys home

Jun 12, 2022

Personally I prefer the full set…

… with original (and correct) box and papers. The watch itself should be first priority, though. When it comes to an early 3800 it is vital that all parts are fitting and haven’t been changed over time. There are specimen with new hands or later bezels. Make sure the deployant is the correct one for the serial number. I would also prefer a piece with the Tritium triangle of the bezel being intact. One word of caution: whenever you send a Tritium 3800 to Breguet for service, they cannot guarantee

drricook

Jun 12, 2022

Thank you Henrik.

The thought of finding the perfect dial, hands and crown only for them to be replaced at service fills me with horror!

LarsG

Jun 12, 2022

Your answer is why I love this community Henrik. Deep knowledge, shared information and personal experince to pass on to others. Great! Enjoy! Lars

kjkt3

Jun 12, 2022

Richard, if I were you, I'd look for a better example than the "Random photo" you've posted: more balanced indices & hands colour and less polished bezel. I like to see 'T-SWISS-T', too. Good luck with your search!