Vintage
Richard (drricook) initiates a crucial discussion for collectors eyeing the early Breguet Type XX Aéronavale Ref. 3800. He seeks community wisdom on the importance of original box and papers for these circa 1996/97 chronographs, especially when balanced against finding a pristine dial. This thread offers invaluable insights into the nuances of acquiring a vintage 3800, highlighting what truly matters to seasoned collectors.
The Patek Philippe reference 3800, introduced in 1981 and available from 1982, represents a significant evolution of the Nautilus line. Positioned as a mid-size alternative to the original reference 3700, it offered a more versatile wearing experience while retaining the distinctive porthole-inspired case design. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus to feature an in-house automatic movement, marking a shift in Patek Philippe's manufacturing strategy for the model. It was produced until 2006, allowing for a wide array of material and dial variations over its production run.
The case of the reference 3800 measures 37.5 mm in diameter, a reduction from the larger 3700. It was produced in various metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, often paired with integrated bracelets or leather straps. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 330 SC, which features a central rotor and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers water resistance suitable for daily wear.
For collectors, the reference 3800 appeals to those seeking a more understated and wearable Nautilus compared to its larger predecessor. Its long production period resulted in numerous dial configurations, including black, blue, and white, with different hour marker styles. The 3800/1A-001 and 3800/1A-XII are specific stainless steel variants that highlight the model's enduring appeal in its original material. Its status as the first Nautilus with an in-house movement also adds to its historical importance within the brand's catalog.
… with original (and correct) box and papers. The watch itself should be first priority, though. When it comes to an early 3800 it is vital that all parts are fitting and haven’t been changed over time. There are specimen with new hands or later bezels. Make sure the deployant is the correct one for the serial number. I would also prefer a piece with the Tritium triangle of the bezel being intact. One word of caution: whenever you send a Tritium 3800 to Breguet for service, they cannot guarantee
The thought of finding the perfect dial, hands and crown only for them to be replaced at service fills me with horror!
Much food for thought 🙂
I don't think it detracts from the over all looks of the watch as the beautiful patina on the earlier tritium dials is the main outstanding feature. All wondeful but the earlier the better IMO - The bezels will be a little thinner with thinner writing, the Breguet 'T' won't be crossed, and the cap will be gold (there was a transition watch between gold capped and steel crown with the T still uncrossed on the Breguet with 100m WR). The earlier ones with gold crown were 200m WR and the really earl
Yours looks very crisp! I have found the DonIndiano link previously and it is fantastic. I think the search will inevitably involve some compromises, and hopefully some travel to find the right example. The UK may not have what I'm looking for but I will take my time.
Or in other words, always get the best condition you can find and not the “set” but in lesser con condition. As much as it’s nice for a collector to get a set, they are over rated mainly in recent years with many chiming into the hobby and looking for it as a proof for authenticity. Bare in mind that not all sets are equal, some like a PreV panerai have real value as they have many small items and a manual signature by Paci, but some are just a box and some papers with no real strings to a speci
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