In this insightful hands-on review, WatchProSite contributor quattro explores three significant Breguet Classique references, offering a detailed look at their design nuances and technical innovations. His original post provides a valuable comparative analysis, highlighting the distinct characteristics of each model. This article synthesizes community reactions and expert opinions, enriching quattro's initial assessment and making these discussions accessible to a broader audience.
Classique Phase de lune 7235 ref. 7235BH/0H/9V6
Among the 250th Anniversary releases that succeeded to the Souscription, this one caught my eye because of its beautiful dial.
The Breguet gold
case, measuring
39 x
9.9 mm, fits nicely on the wrist.
This reference is a numbered
250-piece limited edition.
The
case has a
3-part construction with polished surfaces and
hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” middle.
The calibre 502.3.DRL is a new version of the 502.3 DR.1, a thin automatic movement with an off-centred rotor used in ref. 7137.
The offset
oscillating weight is openworked with a
large B logo, which I'm personally not fond of.
The
bridges of the movement are
hand-engraved with the so-called “
Turgot”
map depicting the
Quai de l’Horloge, where Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshops were located.
Classique Régulateur à Pivot Magnétique 7225, ref. 7225BH/0H/9V6
I was also very keen to try on this other impressive novelty.
The
dial design is inspired by the
Régulateur à Tourbillon, ref.
1176, created in
1809, which is displayed in the Paris Boutique.
It was Breguet’s 3rd tourbillon watch and the first with a
4-minute tourbillon regulator
(instead of the classical 1-minute tourbillon).
Contrarily to its source of inspiration, the
dial, in solid Breguet gold, is
hand-guilloché with the “
Quai de l’Horloge”
motif.
The
case is a
bit large at
41 x 10.7 mm
At 2 o’clock: a traditional small-seconds is running.
At 10 o’clock: the flyback Seconde d'observation (observation seconds) can be activated and reset to zero with the pusher at 8 o'clock.
At 6 o’clock: a fan-shaped power-reserve indicator.
The
Seconde d'observation complication is directly inspired by the Breguet
pocket watch no. 4009, a ‘
double-seconds “observation” chronograph’, or split-second stop watch, sold on 6 January
1825 to Mr Whaley.
The
mid-case is
hand-guilloché with the “
Quai de l’Horloge”
pattern.
The
10 Hz caliber 74SC features a
magnetic-pivot regulating system, which nearly eliminates positional error.
The watch is rated to within
± 1 second per day, a specification much tighter than COSC, Master Chronometer, or Qualité Fleurier standards.
Bridges and
plates are
hand-engraved with a
panoramic view of the
Vallée de Joux, depicting the Manufacture in Le Chenit, the Lac de Joux, and the Dent de Vaulion rising in the distance.
Ref.
7225 (left) and
7235 (right).
Classique Souscription 2025, ref. 2025BH/28/9W6
Finally, I wanted to try on again the Souscription, to get a good sense of how it compares with the other two watches.
Measuring
40 x 10.8 mm, this watch sits exactly
between the 39 mm 7235 and the 41 mm 7225.
And I have to say that it is
my favorite of the three.
For some reason I don't know, the
enamel dial and the
single hand speak to me even more than the dial and complication of the 7235 and 7225 models.
Ref.
2025 (left) and
7225 (right).
The 3 Hz
caliber VS00 is, for me,
much more attractive than the other two calibers.
Engraved on the mainspring
barrel are some of the words used by Breguet in his
1797 prospectus to describe his souscription watch:
"La disposition du Rouage, l’Echappement, le Régulateur sont si à découvert et si faciles à saisir, que tout observateur attentif peut juger d’un coup d’œil sans rien démonter de l’harmonie du travail."
In English:
"The arrangement of the Gear train, the Escapement, the Regulator are so exposed and so easy to grasp, that any attentive observer can judge at a glance, without dismantling anything, the harmony of the work."
For me, the
Souscription fully deserves its
GPHG 2025 Aiguille d’Or Prize.
What do you think about these watches?
Do you have a favorite?
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
About the Breguet Ref. 7137
The Breguet Classique 7137 is a contemporary interpretation of the brand's traditional aesthetic, featuring a moon phase and power reserve indicator. This reference is distinguished by its intricate dial work, which often includes multiple guilloché patterns, a hallmark of Breguet's artisanal craftsmanship. It represents a commitment to classical watchmaking principles within the Classique collection, offering a balanced and legible display of its complications.
The watch is housed in a precious metal case, typically gold, with a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 9.9mm. The case construction often features a finely fluted caseband, a signature Breguet design element. It is powered by an automatic movement, such as the Calibre 502.3 DR1, known for its slim profile and off-centered rotor. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal.
This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate traditional horology and Breguet's historical design codes. It fits into the Classique lineup as a refined dress watch with practical complications. While not a limited edition in all its variants, specific dial or case material combinations may be produced in restricted numbers, adding to their collectibility.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 502.3 DR1
- Case
- Rose gold
- Diameter
- 39mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Breguet Ref. 250thAnniversary
The Breguet 250th Anniversary reference commemorates the birth year of Abraham-Louis Breguet. This limited edition series was introduced to honor the founder's legacy and the brand's heritage of horological innovation. It represents a significant commemorative release, often featuring design elements that pay homage to historical Breguet timepieces, distinguishing it from standard production models through its specific aesthetic and limited availability. These anniversary editions are typically sought after for their historical context and the craftsmanship associated with special Breguet releases.
This particular reference features a round case, often crafted from precious metals, housing a finely finished mechanical movement. The case diameter is typically in a classic size, suitable for a dress watch. The crystal protecting the dial is sapphire, providing clarity and scratch resistance. The movement within is a testament to Breguet's traditional watchmaking, offering a power reserve consistent with high-quality mechanical calibers.
Collectors are drawn to the 250th Anniversary edition for its direct connection to the brand's origins and its status as a special commemorative piece. It appeals to those who appreciate historical significance and limited production runs. The watch fits into the broader Breguet catalog as a tribute piece, distinct from the brand's contemporary collections, and often serves as a focal point for collectors interested in the brand's heritage and special editions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 502.3
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 35.5 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30 meters
- Crystal
- Sapphire
