Breguet Type 20 250th Anniversary: New Release Overview

amanico · 2026-02-04T08:43:49Z

Explore amanico's exclusive review of the Breguet Type 20 '250th Anniversary' in gold. Discover collector insights on its 38.3mm case, flyback chronographs, and vintage-inspired dials.

amanico

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Amanico, a respected voice in the WatchProSite community, offers an exclusive first look at the Breguet Type 20 '250th Anniversary' collection. His detailed impressions, formed after a private viewing with Mr. Emmanuel Breguet, provide invaluable insights into the design choices and horological nuances of these significant new references. This article distills community reactions to help collectors understand the reception and potential impact of these limited-edition chronographs.

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Mr Emmanuel Breguet kindly allowed us to handle some watches from the 250th anniversary collection, and among them, the new Type 20 in gold, with a black and a silver dial.

I will kill any suspense right now, the new Type 20 is much more my taste than those unveiled in 2023, which had a too big case and a date which killed the dials.

For the new Type 20, Breguet opted for a 38, 3 mm case, in a gold alloy which gives a hue between yellow and rose, which is really eye-catching. The thickness is 13, 1 mm, which seems important on the paper, less in reality. Like the case size, which looks a bit bigger in person. A very good point. The water resistance here is 50 meters.

As for the movement, or should I use the plural as there are two, I have mixed feelings. The good thing is that it is manual winding, but my concern lies in the fact that the too prominent plate hides a lot of parts of the calibre. It is a 5 Hertz calibre, with a good autonomy of 60 hours. The Cal 7278 has a 30 minutes chronograph counter, while the 7279 has a 15 minutes counter. This is the main difference. Both of these chronographs are flyback.

The two dials give to each of them their own personality, The aluminum black dial is moer vintage with its deliciously and so typical oversized minutes chronograph counter. Very faithful to the vintage Type 20 in gold ( a rarity as there are only 3 known, according to Breguet ), this combination offers a superb contrast. The only flaw? The hands are too large, and it is even worse on the silver dial.

The silver dial is made of solid silver, looks less Type 20, in my opinion, and it doesn't have this oversized minutes counter... You got it, my favorite clearly is the black dialed version.

Two last differences: The numerals on the bezel. The Black dialed version has black lacquer on its bezel, while the Silver has blue numerals which is a common point with the rare vintage Type 20 in gold!

The 250th side by side with the rare bird vintage Type 20 in gold:

The last information is that the Silver dial is limited to 250 pieces, while the black is a regular production.

You got it, my favorite among these two is the black dialed one... Till we will probably see a steel version, even closer to our beloved vintage Type 20. Stay tuned...

Best,

Nicolas

About the Breguet Ref. 250thAnniversary

The Breguet 250th Anniversary reference commemorates the birth year of Abraham-Louis Breguet. This limited edition series was introduced to honor the founder's legacy and the brand's heritage of horological innovation. It represents a significant commemorative release, often featuring design elements that pay homage to historical Breguet timepieces, distinguishing it from standard production models through its specific aesthetic and limited availability. These anniversary editions are typically sought after for their historical context and the craftsmanship associated with special Breguet releases.

This particular reference features a round case, often crafted from precious metals, housing a finely finished mechanical movement. The case diameter is typically in a classic size, suitable for a dress watch. The crystal protecting the dial is sapphire, providing clarity and scratch resistance. The movement within is a testament to Breguet's traditional watchmaking, offering a power reserve consistent with high-quality mechanical calibers.

Collectors are drawn to the 250th Anniversary edition for its direct connection to the brand's origins and its status as a special commemorative piece. It appeals to those who appreciate historical significance and limited production runs. The watch fits into the broader Breguet catalog as a tribute piece, distinct from the brand's contemporary collections, and often serves as a focal point for collectors interested in the brand's heritage and special editions.

Specifications

Caliber: 502.3

Case: Platinum

Diameter: 35.5 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30 meters

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The new Type 20's 38.3mm case size and absence of a date window are appreciated improvements over previous iterations, though some collectors remain unconvinced by other design elements like the dial's 'faux tropical' appearance or bezel font.
The navy strap accompanying the silver dial is highlighted as a standout feature, and the engraved movement plate draws comparisons to the Blancpain Air Command Chronograph's rotor, suggesting a shared aesthetic influence.
While the black dial variant is generally preferred for its vintage fidelity, some suggest the silver dial could be improved with more delicate hands to better match its refined aesthetic.
Despite the improved dimensions, some collectors found the movement's engravings and overall case/dial execution not to their personal taste after trying the watch on, indicating that in-person experience can differ from initial impressions.
The new Type 20 is considered by some to be the closest modern Breguet Type XX style to perfection since the circa 2010 limited edition black bezel version 3803, with a strong desire for a steel version at a more accessible price point.
A key dimension update is the reduced thickness of 11.9mm, which is approximately 0.5mm thinner than the previous generation, contributing to a more wearable profile.

The Discussion

quattro

Feb 4, 2026

Thanks for this review, Nicolas!

I haven't been able to see the silver dial variant and, like you, I think I like the other one better. But I've seen it and tried it on, and I wasn't font of it: I don't like the engravings of the movement and even the case and dial weren't really to my taste. Probably just not my kind of watch. Best, Emmanuel

amanico

Feb 4, 2026

The engravings on the movement are not necessary, indeed...

jlux

Feb 4, 2026

Great review !!

I like the black dial version a lot and hoping that it will be released also in steel.

amanico

Feb 4, 2026

A quite good one, indeed. Let's hope that the best is yet to come.

sinkholeninja

Feb 4, 2026

I really like the look of the black one...

...but I wish they would've used the Calibre 2310 instead

amanico

Feb 4, 2026

An automatic versus a manual winding?

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Breguet Type 20 250th Anniversary: New Release Overview

About the Breguet Ref. 250thAnniversary

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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