Arnold & Son Ultra Thin Tourbillon Rose Gold 2023

amanico · 2023-08-22T16:16:58Z

Explore the Arnold & Son Ultra-Thin Tourbillon in rose gold from Watches and Wonders 2023. Amanico reviews its classic design, movement, and collector appeal.

amanico

WPS member · Independents forum

10 replies3560 views4 photos

Amanico's insightful review of the Arnold & Son Ultra-Thin Tourbillon in rose gold from Watches and Wonders 2023 offers a deep dive into its design philosophy. He meticulously examines how this piece balances classic elegance with modern horological artistry. His analysis provides a crucial perspective for collectors considering the aesthetic and technical merits of contemporary tourbillon watches.

Another surprise, from Arnold And Son, this year, with this UltraThin Tourbillon.

More sober, less spectacular than the GlobeTrotter or the Double Tourbillon, more classic, probably, too, this UltraThin Tourbillon plays the card of Elegance and Classicism.

I would not say that it is objectively ultra thin as its 41, 5 mm case is 8, 3 mm high, but thin would have been enough for me. Nonetheless, this case is superb, the slim bezel doesn't ruin the purity of this watch, the crown is discreet, and the lugs have the perfect proportions for such a timekeeper.

The choice of rose gold gives some warm and retro personality to this UltraThin Tourbillon. I would have gone for a white metal version, though, but I cannot deny some charm to this watch.

The opaline colored main dial, off white, subtly contrasts with the opale ( stone ) dial dedicated to Time. And the blued hands add some life. Harmonious and well done.

At the bottom part of the dial, you have the tourbillon, with a beautiful carriage, shaped like a triangle with an arrow at each extremity and a point in the center, which indicates the seconds. Does it remind you of sextant, an anchor, or both?

Usually, I am not a fan of tourbillons making a hole in a dial, but here, it echoes the subdial dedicated to Time, it contributes to the symmetry of the whole dial. Not bad, not bad.

On the backside, the movement is worth a look. It has the good taste to be manual winding, with a superb sunburst Cotes de Genève decoration and a hand engraved tourbillon bridge, made in gold, reminiscent of the brand's pocket watches. Another good point is the fact that this movement has a power reserve of... 100 hours. 2, 97 mm is particularly thin for such a calibre, especially for a 32 mm one.

This watch is limited to 88 pieces.

One regret: I would have loved a version white gold or a platinum or a tantalum case, with... An Aventurine dial. Maybe later?

As it is, the retail is 70, 000 CHF including taxes.

What do you think?

Best,

Nicolas

Key Points from the Discussion

The rose gold case is well-suited to the watch's elegant design, offering a warm aesthetic that complements its classic appeal.
The movement engraving is appreciated, though the finishing, particularly the inward angles, could be sharper, suggesting room for refinement in haute horlogerie standards.
A slightly smaller case size, perhaps 40mm, might enhance the watch's proportions and wearability for some collectors.
The tourbillon carriage design, while unique, is perceived by some as too daring and not entirely cohesive with the watch's overall aesthetic.
While tourbillon pricing is generally difficult to justify, this Arnold & Son model is considered 'reasonably unreasonable,' implying a perceived value relative to other tourbillons on the market.

The Discussion

MTR

Aug 22, 2023

I think the RG is a good warm color for this marvel. Although VERY different it somehow reminds me of this BP Tourbillon which was also on my very short short list for my first Tourbillon. This BP was in white metal as you love it (as far as I remember it was in Platinum).

hora12reborn

Aug 22, 2023

is for me too daring and does not really fit with the rest. The price like with almost all the tourbillons is difficult to justifiy but this one remains reasonably unreasonable.

TeutonicCarFan

Aug 23, 2023

I also like the movement engraving. I'd say the finishing is ok, ie, inward angles are not very sharp. Could have been 40mm? Overall I do like the aesthetic A&S is putting out these last few years.

KCLQMULKU

Aug 23, 2023

The design of the case is phenomenal, and that dial!

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Independents forum with 10 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →

Arnold & Son Ultra Thin Tourbillon Rose Gold 2023

Key Points from the Discussion

Continue the conversation

More from this Forum