WatchProSite|Market|Digest

Chopard

Testing Times at Chopard

 

As horology enthusiasts and watch collectors, we are often bedazzled by fashion and jargon.

Nearly all reputable brands claim to produce superlative time-keepers that are designed by artists and hand crafted lovingly by Swiss (or French) watch elves in the mountains.  (Keep those three statements in mind when reading this report)

In this report, we check out the tests that Chopard do on their watches themselves and also what an independent 3rd party quality testing organisation does.




Firstly, this is NOT the independent tester nor the designer, nor the master watchmaker.  smile

I am just setting the scene of what I imagine as the natural habitat for our luxury watches.

When I wear my watch from the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Collection, I AM this guy!

That takes care of the statements about design and craftsmanship for the lifestyle and luxury aspiration; it passes the subjective luxury sniff test.



L.U.C Steel Wings Tourbillon





 L.U.C 1963 Tourbillon




Self-testing:

All three statements may be true for some brands but to test Chopard during a visit to their L.U.Chopard Manufacture, our reporter casually asked to see a couple of randomly picked data printouts from a batch testing.

Just by chance, it was a batch of tourbillon watches made in 2007. Double-whammy! 

Is it the most precise / accurate movement that Chopard make? 



Test results from 6 positions (though L.U.C watches are calibrated at 5 positions)

Randomly picked L.U.Chopard tourbillon watches [watch photos NOT representative of the actual test watches]

One watch operated in a tight range between -1.4 sec to +0.2 sec per day, while the other piece ran from -0.6 to +0.8 sec per day. Without applying statistical analysis of sampling error and P-values, I can safely say that the results are impressive for normal production pieces.


Chopard take their testing procedures seriously and have implemented tests at every stage of production and even tests of the testing process!  This is a requirement for all activities at the manufactures to qualify for the Qualite Fleurier as the whole factory must be certified even if only a small percentage of production are officially submitted for FQF (Fondation Qualite Fleurier) testing.

Thus, all Chopard watches reach the high standards even if not formally tested by FQF.








R&D:

Before the watches even reach the production line, the Research & Development team, Chopard Technologies, has already tested components and assembled prototypes to destruction.

The R&D boffins in Fleuriers have introduced several patented watchmaking innovations since 2005. They are responsible for new concepts and technologies for future Chopard watches. Among its recent accomplishments is the Chopard L.U.C 01.06-L — the first high-frequency escapement movement to be chronometer-certified by COSC — it went into production in the Chopard LUC 8HF watch launched in 2012.




The high frequency movement beats at 8 Hz (57,600 vph), compared to 4 Hz in most current mechanical movements. A higher number of balance wheel vibrations makes the movement less susceptible to timing disturbances from physical knocks and thus, more precise over time. 


 


Unfortunately, the hi-beat movement also needs more energy, solved by Chopard Technologies developing a 60-hour power reserve from a single barrel spring. The Chopard L.U.C 8HF uses lightweight materials science, including monobloc titanium case and silicon for escapement components (impulse pin, lever, and escape wheel). Chopard also patented a method to fix silicon onto steel.


Despite the modern 'hi-tech' equipment, the R&D minions also employ traditional technology when prototyping.

Here is a good old-fashioned "G-force Impulse Accelerator"...er..."giant whacker" in normal-speak.

The calibrated weighted hammer is cocked to vertical position of known length of swing.

The test material (prototype watch) is placed on the sacrificial podium.







The operator tips the armature and gravity of constant force takes over.........W-H-A-C-K.........and the test subject receives an accelerating impulse of known force and duration.



The test subject assumes the position of least resistance i.e. it is hurled off the test podium.

Should it survive, the boffins then test its timing precision and accuracy to derive Before and After datasets.

Upon disassembly, bent and broken bits are measured for deformation and redesign.....


Independent Testing:

All mechanical Chopard L.U.C watches with seconds hand are subjected to C.O.S.C. testing for chronometry as a company rule. This includes their tourbillon watches and other complicated watches. No Ifs and no Buts...100% testing.

Some watches are subjected to the Geneva Seal tests if they are assembled in Geneva.

Even fewer watches undergo the QF horror testing as the ultimate horological grade. The torture tests include a 5% destruction guarantee as sacrificial lambs are eliminated.






One of the 'fun' tests to watch is this activity simulator where a series of 3-dimensional movements by the computer controlled rig simulates real human activity like playing a golf stroke or tennis or driving a car.

You can see the simulated human position and activity on the video screen whilst the rig is turning in the cage.

I would have thought that after surviving the Whack-a-Rat test in R&D, standing with your hands on your hip is no problem for your Chopard watch!














So, there you have it; a 'Brief History of Time' (Testing) at Chopard.

What do you think of the results?



Regards,

MTF


P.S. As if one test was not enough, Chopard produce a Triple-Certified watch that has passed C.O.S.C., Geneva Seal and QF:  The L.U.C Triple Certified Tourbillon.

They make great watches that do what it says on the box but I sometimes wish the naming department created fancier model names wink



This message has been edited by MTF on 2015-07-23 15:48:29

  login to reply
💰110 Marketplace Listings for Chopard