Jaeger-LeCoultre

When SIHH 2007 is closing its doors in a few hours, I'm happy to share with you the following report about what is a new range of watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre.

All fall and winter long we've had rumours about a new diving watch, neo-Polaris or not.

This is not a new diving watch, but a full range of diving watches that comes to us now.

You've already seen many pictures around so let's go into the details now.

What is Jaeger-LeCoultre? Although we cherish our own classical Reverso and Master models, these watches are not enough to define the brand spirit and mission.

Jaeger-LeCoultre intends to be the most inventive company of the higher end horology. No less. In the last years we've seen the Gyrotourbillon and its spherical tourbillon, the Master Minute Repeater and its gongs fixed on the front crystal of the watch, the Grande Complication a Triptyque and its new escapement, tri-dial configuration with perpetual calendar, time equation…., the Amvox2 and its dial operated chronograph, the new Extreme Lab, the new Duometre a Chronographe and finally this range of diving watches (plus all those I forgot).

Let's be frank and clear. This new range of diving watches is a range of tools (at least the men's models). I know that some (I am among them) are waiting for new classical understated models in the Master range. They won't come this year but we will get them don't worry (I can't say more).

You see that light blue hand, that's the depth gauge

The star of the diving collection is obviously the Master Compressor Diving Pro Geographic. This is a 46.3mm watch with a mechanical depth gauge. The case is made in satin brushed Grade 5 titanium and the watch is water-resistant to 300 metres. A limited series of 200 pieces in platinum will be also available.

The movement is the new automatic calibre 979, a 48 hour power reserve hand crafted and decorated derivative of the "autotractor" calibre 975.

The compression keys clad in black rubber

This is a thick tool watch with a 3.6mm thick cambered sapphire crystal and a more than 5mm thick back at its thickest point. For 44mm models rated to a 1000 metres water resistance the pressure on the crystal at 1000 metres depth is 890 kg!

This is somewhat the first Atmos on the wrist, with a different purpose though. The device used to indicate the depth is a membrane that expands or contracts according to the aquatic pressure exercised on its metal head. It may remind you of the gas capsule expansion depending on the variations of air temperature, used in the Atmos to wind the mainspring.

In the Master Compressor Diving Pro Geographic the depth indication is done through a rhodium plated rack visible on the dial and connected to the membrane though a central pinion. The depth indication works from O to minus 80 meters, the first 40 meters being more detailed thanks to a logarithmic-scale calculated shape of the rack and pinion.

The depth gauge mechanism

You can see the working of the depth gauge on the left side of the watch case. You can push on the black metallic head of the gauge to check that it works. Push smoothly and you'll see the blue hand move on the dial.

The black-PVD coated steel head of the depth gauge

The compression keys have a slightly larger diameter than the former Compressor models. The handling is improved with the use of rubber allowing a better grip underwater.

This watch is intended to be a perfect complement and a security check to the now generalized electronic devices used by serious divers to calculate their diving times, decompression stages and other stuff necessitated in order to guarantee the safer dive.

The profile of the depth gauge chamber

The window at six on the dial indicates the place linked to the second time zone dial at nine. You also get a date at three.

At ten you can see the depth gauge rack

The luminescent movement operating indicator is located right under the central hands axis. A luminescent rectangle is there to prove while moving that the movement is running.

A 30 atmospheres, 300m water resistant diving watch

The rotating diving bezel has a 120 tooth system that allows a 30 seconds precision. A luminescent reference triangle allows perfect readability of the bezel underwater.

The Diving Pro Geographic is a large watch indeed but this range gets a new designed case with reshaped lugs that make it fit smaller. The 44mm models are pretty wearable for smaller wrists and in my opinion seem smaller on the wrist that 41.5 former Compressor models. The case is though in the thick league, being designed to resist to high underwater pressure (water resistant to 1000 metres for the 44mm models).

A compressor dial, with new applied hour markers

The blue colour was chosen because it is the colour that ensures maximal contrast underwater. Between 30 and 60 meters blue is supposed to be the only visible colour. The actual visibility of colours underwater is a function of water composition, water acting as a filter to the light.

Several options of strap are offered. You can either get a titanium links bracelet or an articulated triple-link bracelet composed of a metal frame molded in black rubber. All watches get an additional diving-strap in Cordura with Velcro fastening. The 44mm models (Diving Chronograph and Diving GMT) can also get a rubber-clad strap.

The new Master Compressor Diving GMT

The Master Compressor Diving GMT is water resistant to 1000 metres. It shows central local time that can be incremented by one hour jumps forward or backward. There's a second time zone on a 24h subdial at 9. The date appears at 3. The window at 6 is a luminescent operating indicator. Once again the blue colour ensures the best readability underwater of this indicator.

This watch is powered by calibre 975D and is available in a limited series of 1500 pieces in titanium.  

The Master Compressor Diving Chronograph

Another 44mm option is this quite appealing 1000 metres water resistant chronograph. The pushers are obviously fitted with compression keys. The luminescent movement indicator is there at 6 through a rounded window.

The inner ring of the dial shows a pulsometer that calculates the heartbeats per minute. You stop the chronograph after 30 heartbeats and it shows the number of heartbeat per minute. The calculation of heartbeats is essential to free divers. The aim of a slow heartbeat is essential to improving the diver capacity to longer dives.

The chronograph will be available in pink gold or in a limited series of 1500 in titanium.

This range of men's diving watches brings us a nice choice among three appealing pieces that emphasize the technical inventiveness of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

These are real diving watches and fill nicely the gap in the Jaeger-LeCoultre range.

Dje