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Montblanc

Montblanc 1858 Automatic Small Second

 

Here on PuristSPro, we have often talked about the newest watch collection from Montblanc, namely the 1858 collection. Here are some previous articles I have shared on the collection, which focused on the inspiration behind the collection as well as the Tachymeter Chronograph and Manual Small Seconds models.


Part One
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Part Two
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Part Three
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We have also read additional reviews from Nico and Fx on the current flagship model of the collection, i.e. the 1858 Tachymeter Chonograph in steel (blue dial) and red gold (black dial), both limited to 100 pieces and individually numbered.

I will not repeat the details I had shared previously and you can read about them in the links provided above. I only wish to emphasize two key facts of this collection that I love:

1. The homage to the Minerva manufacture, founded since 1858. I am happy personally as a fan of Minerva that Montblanc is serious about preserving the heritage of the Minerva manufacture and paying tribute to the history of Minerva.

2. The vintage charm of the watches in the 1858 collection. The old Montblanc logo (with the mountain) is something I appreciate, along with the vintage inspired Pilot- theme dials, the large crown and the cathedral hands.


The picture below sums up my two points above. 






You can also read up on the design cues inspired from the vintage Minerva chronograph watch launched in the early 1920s with the calibre 13.20 in my earlier posts shared above.

Today I am introducing to you a new model in the 1858 collection. Quite similar to the 1858 Manual Small Second launched in 2015, but now with an automatic movement. The 1858 Automatic Small Second is the latest in the Montblanc 1858 Collection and will appeal  to buyers who prefer the convenience of an automatic winding watch.


I know what many of us PuristS will ask: Minerva and automatic movements? Well, let’s just say that Montblanc also has to cater to the more general customer base, looking for an everyday watch which is stylish, with some vintage charm. I think these customers may prefer this automatic version to the manual version.



 



The design code of this latest member in the 1858 collection is consistent with the Manual Small Second and the Tachymeter Chronograph. The illustration below summarizes the inspiration behind the design code of the case and dial.



The design code of the case of the Automatic Small Second, which is also at 44mm, similar to the Manual Small Second and Tachymeter Chronograph.




The design code of the dial with consistent design cues such as the cathedral hands and vintage shaped crown.



Now, some of you may ask: how does the automatic movement differ from manual version? There are 2 key differences, other than an automatic vs a manual winding movement.

Firstly, the dial of the Manual Small Seconds does not have the 6 arabic numeral and a small seconds sub dial is at 6 o’clock position.



The 1858 Manual Small Second with a steel mesh bracelet.


The new Automatic Small Second, however, has the Arabic numeral 6 and the small second sub-dial is closer to the middle of the dial. This is also a function of the automatic movement being a lot smaller than the case (the Manual Small Second uses a large Unitas manual winding movement).

 
The new 1858 Automatic Small Second in a steel mesh bracelet.



Secondly, the 1858 Manual Small Second has an open case back for their owners to admire the Unitas movement, which although it’s not finely finished, still looks pretty good as it is a large movement with a large balance wheel.


The open case back of the Manual Small Second, showcasing the Unitas manual winding movement.



The new Automatic Small Second, however, has a closed case back, which I very much prefer as the movement is a very small one relative to the large 44mm 1858 case.

The Automatic Small Second also has a 44mm steel case and at the case back, we now see a nice decoration of the Minerva Manufacture with the Jura mountains in the background. The historical Minerva logo is also inscribed on the case back, along with the Roberts Freres Villeret E;mso-fareast-language:EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA">“RFV” logo and the emblem of the Goddess Minerva (aka the Minerva Arrowhead).


The case back on the Automatic Small Second.


I have not seen this model in the metal yet and will share life pictures of the watch and case back when I have the chance. Personally, I think this case back, if well engraved, will look pretty nice and I much prefer such a detail than an open sapphire glass case back, especially when the movement is too small for the case and/or the finishing of the movement is industrial without nice decorations.


The last detail I would like to share on the new 1858 Automatic Small Second is on the strap paired with the watch (a steel mesh bracelet option is also available). Montblanc’s Sfumato leather straps are used on this watch. If you appreciate Montblanc’s leather goods, you may know that they have a Sfumato leather collection including bags, wallets and belts. 



The brown Sfumato strap has a nice patina on the leather.


Similar to these other leather goods, the Sfumato watch straps are developed and produced at the Montblanc Pelletteria in Florence, Italy. The looks of this leather collection, including the strap is like leather with patina patterns and I love the looks of this leather collection from Montblanc (I have not seen the watch strap yet but the other leather goods in this collection look great when I saw them in the boutiques here).


Montblanc used a historical artisanal technique which was literally referred to as evaporated like smoke”, which results in fine shading and graduation between colors and tones on the leather, similar to leather patina on fine shoes. In Florence, Montblanc only uses the finest and softest calfskin, which helps to give an elegant patina on the leather. During the leather treatment process, four layers of paint are lightly applied to each individual piece of leather, creating a special finish. Due to the hand crafting of each leather piece, every strap is unique with different patina, shading and shadowed appearance.


 
Clockwise: Leather quality checks, skin refining and leather crafting and repair toolset


Integrating Montblanc’s leather products into their watch straps is a great move from Montblanc as I had expressed before. Their leather goods are nice and finely crafted and definitely the patina on the Sfumato strap will enhance the vintage charm of the watches in the 1858 collection. I hope they will also make a blue Sfumato strap for my soon-to-arrive 1858 Tachymeter Chronograph in steel and blue dial! That will be a killer combination.

I personally have not seen this 1858 Automatic Small Second watch in the metal yet. Has any Purist seen it? Please share your thoughts on this new watch and the 1858 collection in general, especially if you have seen them in the wild or tried them in the boutiques or authorized retailers. 


Cheers
robin


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