Independents
AndrewD introduces the Zeitwinkel 273º, a flagship model from the independent Swiss brand known for its in-house manufacture movements. This review highlights the watch's practical features, Teutonic aesthetic, and the brand's commitment to traditional watchmaking, offering a fresh perspective on a lesser-known but highly regarded independent.
Zeitwinkel started in 2006 and released their first watch to market in 2009. If you read the company website you can see that they take great pride in the fact that their watches are built around a manufacture movement used solely in their watches.
Initial impressions are that the case is relatively simple in design, fitting the workmanlike character of the watch. But as you look more closely you see the alternating polished and matte surfaces, including on the lugs. There is a lot of detail for the owner to enjoy. I find this gives watches a long term appeal.
The rear plate is screwed on and the watch is water resistant to 5 Bar or 50m, a little better than the industry average of 3 Bar (30m), but still not suitable for swimming, of course.
Dials are available in silver (shown here), black and galvanic-blue. The RG case with the delicious metallic blue dial (that I have only seen in pictures) would be my pick in precious metal.
I found the watch very easy to read. Partly because of the size and the sparsely filled dial, but also the hands which are diamond cut and angled to catch the light. The hour and minute hands are in silver (or gold) and the seconds and PR hands are blued for contrast.
The hand-sewn straps are made from calfskin and the watch is on a steel deployent. There is a faux alligator pattern pressed into the leather which is unnecessary. A rubber strap is available as an option.
There is an eBoutique on the company website and also a physical presence in selected markets in Europe, Asia and the United States. The prices are all very reasonable, particularly in steel, and add to the desirability of these pieces.
Unique and practical design, in house movements, traditional Swiss finishing produced in the heart of the Jura Mountains and at an affordable price. Zeiwinkel deserve to flourish.
Andrew
[Stock images courtesy of Zeitwinkel]
. . . is their lack of an angle. No whimsical moon phase indicator; no dials made of rare rock; no ground-breaking materials; no claimed technological breakthroughs. Second is their aesthetic: sober, simple, and clear - Teutonic, just as you described. Finally, pricing; one of few newer manufacturers that anyone would consider reasonable, and offering a high level of value. Here's hoping Maks and Peter find success! Art
Quite uncommon. Simple aesthetics and good value with a very well executed movement. Model 181º
... for the wrist. This is a very nice model. Certainly the family resemblance is obvious. And the same attention to detail. I like the background of the date disk that matches the dial colour - the information is there when you need it, but the date is not too intrusive. And the thinner case makes the proportions even better. Love the perforated winding rotor. Thanks for sharing it in this thread. Andrew
. . . Grand Seiko :-) . Pretty much the same gestalt , and they have folks lining up to buy theirs. Most cordially, Art
Purely by accident while reading a QP magazine. I liked the watch in the photo, which happened to be the silver dial 273. So, as like most of us, I suspect, I started to read many articles about the brand. Unfortunately, as they are such a recently new brand, there were not to many articles, which didn't repeat the same information. And so being intrigued, I emailed them. And a very lovely lady named Isabel contacting me very quickly. From there one thing led to another! And last week in a hotel
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