Four Regulator Watches: Collector's Picks

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

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In this insightful article, WatchProSite contributor quattro delves into the captivating world of regulator watches, spotlighting four exceptional models that exemplify the distinct appeal of this horological complication. Building on an extensive reference list compiled by fellow collector Cazalea, quattro shares his personal favorites, offering a connoisseur's perspective on their unique design elements and technical merits. His selections highlight how subtle details, from subdial placement to movement architecture, define the character of these intricate timepieces.

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If, like me, you love regulators displays, check the thread by Cazalea, referencing 70 different dial layouts!

Here are just 4 models which I really like.

Best.

1/ BREGUET ref. 3690 with JLC based caliber 818/4

I love the off centred hours subdial and the absence of date window: two details which differentiates this model from other Breguet regulators, like ref. 1747 & 5187, which have a centred hours subdial at 6 or 12 o'clock and a date window at 3 or 6 o'clock.

credit: theydid

2/ Laurent Ferrier Square Regulator with caliber LF 228.01

My personal favorite version of the square case and one of the purest regulator I know. And rose gold with anthracite dial would be my pick.

credit: LF website

credit: Mr Watchley

3/ Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator ref. 5235/50R with caliber 31-260 REG QA

Some might like the white gold version more, but this one is my favorite: very dressy, yet with a dynamic, sporty touch because of the white hands, numerals and tracks. And I like the architecture of the movement a lot, as well as the Advanced Research features (Pulsomax® escapement and a Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®).

credit: monochrome

4/ Vacheron Constantin Malte Dual Time Regulateur, ref. 42005/000R-9034 with caliber VC1206

Here again, I chose my favortie color scheme. The case is thick and the design strong, but the overall look is great, imo.

credit: horology & co

credit: watch buyers

Key Points from the Discussion

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5235/50R, with its Annual Calendar Regulator complication, is a personal favorite among collectors, often praised for its blend of dressy aesthetics and dynamic, sporty touches.
Beyond conventional choices, some collectors appreciate regulators with unique historical movements, such as a piece featuring a Longines Caliber 360, for their unconventional design and horological significance.
While some Breguet regulators feature centered subdials and date windows, quattro's preferred Ref. 3690 stands out for its off-centered hours subdial and absence of a date, which he argues gives it a more distinctive character compared to more symmetrical designs.
The Longines Caliber 360, found in certain unconventional regulator pieces, is recognized for its unique internal architecture and is known to be owned by at least one member within the WatchProSite community.

The Discussion

GuyT

Nov 3, 2024

RG & black dial, I just need a bigger wrist to wear it.

jlux

Nov 3, 2024

Obviously I have a soft spot for my PP 5235 .

KMII

Nov 3, 2024

There’s one more that is my favorite - but not the conventional choice 😉 Picture from: Phillips

quattro

Nov 3, 2024

Simple and complex at the same time.

jmpTT

Nov 3, 2024

It's a wonderful and unconventional piece, with a Longines Cal 360 inside. There is at least one owner on these forums.

KMII

Nov 3, 2024

Need to scan back to find the pictures, though. A truly amazing piece 👌🏻🙌🏻👏🏻

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