Watch Brands: Past as Burden or Richness?
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Watch Brands: Past as Burden or Richness?

By amanico · Feb 10, 2010 · 45 replies
amanico
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
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Amanico's thought-provoking post delves into the complex relationship between a watch brand's heritage and its contemporary identity. This article explores whether a rich past serves as a foundational strength or an inhibiting burden for luxury watchmakers, sparking a vibrant community discussion on brand DNA, innovation, and the weight of tradition.

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We often speak about the DNA of the brands, when we mention some names like Lange, Vacheron, AP, JLC, PP, and some others.

Is it a good thing or a bad thing to refer to their DNA?

When we think about it, the weight of the Past may be associated to a kind of Legitimacy in the fine art of making watches, providing to the passionate customer some confidence in the current product.

We often see some slogans like " Founded in 1755 ", " Since 1833, 1846, 1860 " and so on...

It is obvious that the brands- if not all of them, let's say most of them- underline their age in their communications ( Press Files, Catalogues, Books etc ... ).

This link to the Past is also noticeable in the modern watches:

There are so many " Icons " borrowed from the " Heritage " of the brands.

Patek and the Calatrava :

5196 / 96



The World Time:

Modern and Vintage:



Credit pic: Antiquorum:



JLC, with the Polaris, the MUT, the Triple Date, the Memovox, and the Reversos:







Vacheron Constantin, and the " Les Historiques " Collection:



Rolex and Panerai, with some strong examples like the Submariner and the Radiomir:





All these Heirs ( and of course there are many others which would have deserved to be mentionned ) are indeed convincing Ambassadors of the Richness of the Past, and illustrate the benefits for every brand to " dig " into their own Patrimony.

BUT, on another side, isn't the Past a too heavy burden for the Brands?

In clearer words, doesn' the Past " stick " too much to the brands.

One example is Panerai:

Panerai is well known for their Military Watches...

If now, you make an improbable mix of Military and High End watches, what would you think?

Good, or Bad?

Isn' it a " disturbing " surprise to see Panerai releasing such a Military watch housing a Tourbillon ( ! ) or a Celestial ( !! ) complication?

Panerai is not known as a Manufacture, but as a Laboratory of Ideas.

That is the weight, the Burden of their past.

With Longines, the Burden of the Past has a name: Nostalgy.

We still have in mind the prestigious releases of the Past, like the gorgeous 13 ZN or 30 CH Chronos, the Pilot Watches, and the Chronometers.





Where are these Legends now, in the current offer?

Of course, the Longines Legend Diver is a nice tribute, but it may be a bit isolated, and not at the same level than a 13 ZN, or a Chronometer, for example.

Sometimes, the Past plays a bad trick to the Brands...

An example?

The latest JLC Extrem Lab II so called ... " Tribute to Géophysic ".

While learning that JLC would release another " Géophysic ", everybody began to dream about the Vintage model, an example of Sobriety, and simple understated elegance.

If you only keep the name " Extrem Lab II ", you know what you'll have, a great technical watch.

If you have in mind the Géophysic, you're deceived.

While the watch doesn't deserve such a reaction, as it is a very interesting one.

So, what do you think?

Is the Past a good thing, and a way to perpetuate an interesting horological Tradition, or is it rather a lack of Inspiration and Creativity, a Burden which sticks too much the Brands into their vision and development?

It's up to you.

Best,

Nicolas This message has been edited by amanico on 2010-02-10 06:38:42 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2010-02-12 09:16:09

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IR
Ir77
Feb 10, 2010
where would all of these brands be if not for the history?

each of the listed brands, has the reputation today because of the day's of yesterday. all but panerai, which never made commercial watches and the marketing machine of today back-filled any history needed. all the "major" companies today commend the price/respect because over the decades, centuries in some cases, they have provided a product with which customers could identify and are obviously willing to spend the money on. are some new creations disappointing? recently have many companies tri

AM
amanico
Feb 10, 2010
Maintaining a high level of Quality is indeed important

Whatever is the Past of the Brand, I agree. Some brands took some distance with their Past, as U.N. U.N still makes some marine chronometers, but nowadays, are more admired for their latest innovative creations, like the PC, The Freak or the Sonata. So, the Past doesn't make all, I agree. Thanks for your valuable input! Best, Nicolas

CR
Craig LA
Feb 10, 2010
IMHO, The key is to respect the past, while simultaneously evolving and moving forward!

Great post Nicolas. I had the exact some conversation last night with the manager of the Panerai Boutique in BH. I, for one, applaud Panerai and embrace their continuing evolution. The key for me is that Panerai has NOT abandoned its tradition and history. Rather, it has supplemented it. Panerai continues to manufacture models that reflect the roots of the company – models that embody the historical aesthetic – models that are a natural continuance of the lineage. Therefore, Panerai’s history an

AM
amanico
Feb 10, 2010
Isn't this the evidence of a certain strength from Rolex?

While I agree that I'm not madly in love with their latest creations, I agree with you that Rolex didn't change much of their Classics. Is it an evidence of weakness? Not sure at all! A Sub is a timeless piece, as well as a GMT. If Rolex discontinue such models, I think they will loose an important part of their potential clients who are in search of these pieces for what they represent, a model, an icon. As for Panerai, it is too complicated for me. I understand your point, but I don't share it

CR
Craig LA
Feb 10, 2010
Absolutely evidence of Rolex's strength, albeit at the expense of innovation & creativity

I personally crave options and diversity. Whether you like Panerai's evolution or not, Panerai gives you an abundance of options -- something for everyone. Therefore, you can pass on the EOT, but pursue the 339 or Mare, or vice versa, as guided by your own personal taste. Had Panerai simply stuck to its historical models, with little or no deviation, as Rolex has done, we would not have the tremendous options present in Panerai's current line-up. Craig

DR
Dr No
Feb 10, 2010
Without tradition, there is no continuity. Without continuity, manufacturers . . .

. . . would be in a position of continual reinvention. What if the 'reinvention' falls flat? That would be too much of a risk for any of the manufacturers to take, except perhaps for Rolex. My sense is that the manufacturers consider tradition to be an asset; for privately held Patek and Audmars, goodwill might be the most important asset on their balance sheet. I don't feel the past is as much a burden as much as it is a definition . . . cordially, Art

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