Vintage Asymmetrical Driver's Watches Guide

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

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quattro's insightful post delves into the fascinating world of asymmetrical 'driver's' watches, a niche but historically significant category. By showcasing examples from Patek Philippe, Longines, and Bulova, quattro highlights how these brands innovated to improve legibility for motorists. This exploration not only unearths rare references but also sparks a broader discussion on the preservation and aesthetic appeal of vintage timepieces.

In his recent post concerning his asymmetrical, sloped and stepped Longines desk clock, mblum3 evoked the "driver's" watches from Patek Philippe and Longines: here they are, with a similarly designed model from Bulova.

Best to you all.

A/ PATEK PHILIPPE

1/ Ref. 524

a. Without sub-seconds (caliber 8"85)

credit: traveledman

credit: @a.dose.of.time

credit: aste bolaffi

b. With sub-seconds (caliber 9-90)

credit: onbehalf

2/ Ref. 523 (the exact difference with ref. 524 is unknown to me, but the dial has some similarities with the above ref. 524, without the sub-seconds)

credit: patek monger

3/ Ref. 576 (caliber 8"85)

credit: onbehalf

credit: antiquorum

B/ LONGINES

Ref. 4100 "Inclinex" Observatory Watch

credit: @chronovantage2 & @barfindwatches

credit: omegaforums

credit: @weezegallery

C/ BULOVA

The "Rite-Angle" Watch (advertised as "tilted at the right angle": cf. ad below)

credit: art deco wristwatches

credit: @delovelynesscollection

credit: pinterest

Key Points from the Discussion

The Patek Philippe Ref. 576 is a particularly rare and striking example, with its unique dial configurations, including a black dial with cabochons, standing out among collectors.
The Longines Ref. 4100 'Inclinex' Observatory Watch, with its distinctive quartered dial, is another highlight, demonstrating Longines' innovative approach to asymmetrical design.
The Bulova 'Rite-Angle' Watch, designed to be tilted at the 'right angle' for easy viewing, is a notable inclusion that expands the scope of asymmetrical driver's watches beyond high horology.
The existence of a white gold (or possibly platinum) case for the Patek Philippe Ref. 524 adds another layer of rarity and desirability to this reference.
A key debate among collectors is the extent to which vintage dials and cases should be refinished or touched up, with a preference often expressed for cleaning while otherwise leaving them untouched to preserve their original character.

The Discussion

mblum3

Dec 28, 2024

I've never seen ref. 576. The pictures are amazing. My favorite of the dials are the black Patek with the cabochons and the Longines with the center being divided in quarters. When I saw you included Bulova, I said, oh yes, how did I forget that one. Also never knew of the ref 524 being done with a white gold case. (Platinum?) These pictures also raise a question I'm sure has been debated here. At what point must a dial be refinished? Or a case touched up? Thanks for the post!

quattro

Dec 28, 2024

As for aged dials and cases, I think I generally prefer them cleaned but otherwise untouched. Best.

mrds

Dec 28, 2024

Love the PP 524 without sub seconds. Clean, well designed and on purpose.

mblum3

Dec 28, 2024

Agree with originality.

quattro

Dec 29, 2024

the two hands PP 524 is very attractive. Thanks for the kind words.

quattro

Dec 29, 2024

and for the kind words!

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Vintage Asymmetrical Driver's Watches Guide

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