Van Der Bauwede: Unique Watch Designs Profile

SJX profiles Van Der Bauwede (VDB), a brand with a rich jewelry and watchmaking heritage dating back to 1873. The article highlights VDB's surprisingly diverse and often unconventional watch designs, from robust chronographs to unique, memorable pieces that eschew pretense. This exploration sheds light on a brand known for its distinctive aesthetic and innovative use of materials.

Maxence Van Der Bauwede is the scion of a family of jewellers originally hailing from Bruges in Belgium. The family has been in jewellery and watchmaking since 1873, but admirably his namesake brand Van Der Bauwede (VDB) does not devote too much energy into expounding on its history. VDB makes a surprisingly large range of watches, including some truly offbeat pieces that are memorable and original. And despite the designs, there is little pretense in most of the timepieces.  

Maxence Van Der Bauwede

I first encountered VDB in the nineties when two of its models, the Magnum Churchill chronograph and Magnum Diver, caught my eye. Both were big, sporty tonneau shaped watches, at a time when Franck Muller was still fashionable amongst fashionable people and when the largest Cintree Curvex was still quite small.

Both the VDB tonneau watches were not only large but serious looking. However they were interesting beyond their aesthetics. The Magnum chronograph case was machined from 800 silver, an alloy not often found in watchmaking and one that acquires a patina over time. One version of the chronograph known as the Magnum Churchill Quarterback (how’s that for an intimidating name?) had a grille bolted to the case over the crystal.

The current, gentrified VDB Magnum Chronograph 

The Magnum diver, on the other hand, was plain steel, but featured a rotating tonneau shaped bezel. That achieved by mounting the tonneau bezel on a round track above a round crystal. These two models received a moderate amount of attention on Timezone back then, which was how I got to know them in the first place.

I had forgotten about the brand until recently, when Maxence Van Der Bauwede came to Singapore to present the 2010 collection. My first question to him naturally concerned what ever happened to the Magnum chronograph and diver. He was surprised someone here actually remembered those products.

The diver unfortunately has been discontinued, but after hearing my comments Van Der Bauwede promised to look at reviving the model. And the Magnum chronograph is still in production but only in steel or gold, because many clients did not like the patina that the silver alloy acquired over time.

Unlike the early VDB watches, the current range is more flamboyant. But given that VDB offers 250 references, quite a feat for a brand that makes only 5000 watches a year, there is something for everyone – and I mean everyone.

Van Der Bauwede is apparently pretty well connected in celebrity circles, thus several of his watches have some sort of connection to someone famous. The “Good Luck Baby” watches were created in response to a request from singer Pink – more accurately, P!nk. If you run a search for her you will see these watches are perfect.

I find them absolutely h!deous but in their defence they are fairly well detailed, unlike the typical watches in this genre (which are cheaper, plated and cubic zirconium-ed). And I hate to admit it but the strap used for the “Good Luck Baby” is interesting – glitter is embedded into between the scales of the crocodile band.

Another watch for ladies, but this time more subtle, is the Lace watch. The strap is an stretchy lace material. It is very obviously inspired by lingerie. Van De Bauwede apparently got this inspiration after seeing a Nina Ricci fashion show. These lingerie watches are unexpectedly attractive on a lady’s wrist – they look much better than they sound.

But as I said, there is something for everyone. On the other extreme of the design spectrum VDB offers the Legend Rider chronograph. This is an immense sports watch in a curious shape. It is attractive and distinctive enough, but the case is enormous and the lugs are long so it does well only on large wrists. One version of the Legend Rider, the XSR48, is dedicated to a luxury sports boat; Prince Michael of Kent apparently owns one of the boats and the watch was created for him.

A study in contrasts: Bigness and P!nkness

VDB in its modern incarnation began when he was contracted to make watches for Bijan, the ultra-expensive and extravagant Beverly Hills clothier. He first set up shop in a factory in Geneva that formerly made Gilbert Albert jewellery; Albert is of course the designer who designed the famous fifties asymmetric Patek Philippe watches.

Aside from the watch collection sold by retailers and at its boutique in Geneva, a good part of VDB’s business is creating corporate gifts like cuff links and pens, priced at CHF500-3000. I get the impression these are largely sold in the Middle East and Eastern Europe.

Interestingly, the third component of VDB’s revenue stream is actually making components, like screws and screw drivers, for clients outside the watchmaking industry like camera makers for instance. This accounts for about 15% of revenue. These parts are made at VDB’s Fleurier facility.

The Fleurier facility also makes complication modules for some VDB models, though VDB has none of its own movements now. An in-house calibre, however, is slated for 2012 launch. Notably it will be a small automatic intended for ladies watches.

Van Der Bauwede has some ambitious plans for the brand. The brand is certainly creative – the first lingerie inspired watch – with an unfettered ability to deliver unforgettable designs. A lot of VDB’s line-up is not to my taste, but like its spirit. I look forward to the return of the Magnum diver.

- SJX