Vacheron Constantin "Top Winders" Vintage Overview

Key Points from the Discussion

• The 1935 Vacheron Constantin 'Top Winder' was produced in two slightly different case sizes (29mm and 29.5mm) due to variations in lug integration, and featured two distinct crown styles: one protruding and one integrated into the case. Furthermore, the second hand also came in two styles, with or without a counterweight, depending on the subdial's complexity.
• The iconic 1936 Vacheron Constantin 'Don Pancho' minute repeater, a 'Top Winder' with a unique form, was initially discovered by a descendant and later sold by Phillips for a significant sum. Interestingly, Vacheron Constantin had produced calendar watches with a similar form but conventional crown placement a few years prior.
• Vacheron Constantin's decision to produce 'Top Winders' in the 1930s was primarily an economic initiative, repurposing Lepine-type pendant watch movements for wristlets, which naturally resulted in the crown at 12 o'clock and seconds at 6. It is ironic that this initial design compromise later became a desirable feature in re-editions.
• While appreciating the historical significance, one collector found the 12 o'clock crown placement on a Cartier Tank Basculante to be uncomfortable in practice, suggesting that the unusual design, while aesthetically intriguing, can impact wearability.
• The restoration of the 'Don Pancho' involved creating a replacement dial while preserving the original in its untouched state. This approach is considered by some to be superior to cleaning the original dial, which carries the risk of an unpredictable outcome.
• The 'Top Winder' design, particularly in the 1930s pieces, is a direct consequence of Vacheron Constantin re-purposing Lepine-type pendant watch movements for wristwatches, leading to the crown at 12 o'clock and the seconds subdial at 6 o'clock. This is similar to how the original American 1921 gained its distinctive look.