Collection
Swatchme77 provides a comparative review of two underappreciated 90s timepieces: the Vacheron Constantin Overseas 1st Gen Type 2 (Ref. 42042/432A) and the Patek Philippe 5080/1A. This article delves into the nuances of these 36-37mm watches, offering a fresh perspective on their design, movements, and collector relevance in an era often overlooked.
Recalling the 90s where 36mm seems to be the right size for every wristwatch.
I would like to share my personal review here the underappreciated time pieces of the 90s with some flash back to the 70s. Not common and perhaps not in demand.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas 1st Gen Type 2 - 42042/432A
Introduced in 1996 if I am not wrong as VC -42040/432A with a GP cal 3100-based, mod as their cal 1310 and later cal 1311 with COSC certified.
This piece, the Vacheron Reference No 42042/423A is one of the last few units produced and comes with the cal 1311 with COSC cert. It has a diameter of 37mm and a thickness of 8mm.
It is small in diameter by today’s standard.
Power reserve of about 40hours, it is water resistant to 150m! The Royal Oak classic have not come close to this level.
Case back:
It has the most pretty case back with the engraving. If you compare Royal Oak vs Overseas vs Neptune (even the 3700 nautilus).
Bracelet:
It has a comfortable bracelet although not as robust as the Gen2 Overseas but at times, it kink and may catch a few hair on your arm.
Look – ceramic or Teflon bearings in the 90s? It seems the new Tudor Chrono Heritage has this too.
Patek Philippe 5080/1A
Introduced in 1996, it is one of the forgotten Patek Philippe timepiece ever made and it comes with a 315/190 cal. (non hacking).
It has a diameter of 36mm and a thickness of 6mm (This is slimmer than the Overseas).
It is small in diameter by today’s standard.
Power reserve of about 40hours and no hacking. Its water resistant is unknown level even it has screw down crown and screw case back but no data is available for its water resistance but one Japanese magazine published that it has a 60m water resistant and this is not bad for such as slim watch.
Case back:
It has a simple case back with no engraving or serial number and easily scratched.
Bracelet:
It has the most comfortable bracelet although not as robust as the Royal Oak IMHO and it doesn't kink or catch a few hair.
I don't have a AP 14790ST (36mm) to compare but I have a spare 5402ST in the drawer.
Born in late 1974, it comes with a 39mm…..big size during the 70s but perfect by today’s standard.
It has a slim case too. There is a myriad of review for this piece and I am no expert to comment as a beginner.
They don't look much different and they all wear wonderfully under the sleeves or with T-shirt during weekend.
I am not the expert to give a more detail comparison but I leave it to your judgement to appreciate the 36-37mm wrist watch of the 90s. Please forgive me for this beginner’s write up if the details are incorrect.
Remember these are not the common steed you see every day (like rolex) and not in demand. I am happy with just these simple looking watches as a rookie in collecting. Should you pick up one?
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 5402ST is identified within the Royal Oak series. This reference is part of the Royal Oak "Jumbo" models.
The case material is steel. No further details regarding the case, crystal, or movement are provided.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in the Royal Oak "Jumbo" series. It is a specific iteration within the broader Royal Oak collection.
is it possible to put the Neptune on a strap or is it completely integrated with the case? it is a piece not seen often but have to say it is quite cool. ten years ago i had an overseas chronograph with the same bracelet, loved it but at times the bracelet would snatch a hair or two. wish it had been possible to switch to a soft strap as the second generation is, suppose VC listened to owners! this blue dial version you have is absolutely amazing, the 150m wr makes it even more compelling to own
You can remove bracelet as they have pin holes but you need custom strap.
Thanks for considering these are cool watches.
I had the same 'issue' with the Overseas 1. gen. Wanting to be able to attach a leather/alligator strap I designed an end link, making this possible. Just wanted to say: it is possible and the strap is very nice and comfortable and the Overseas.
...the PP bracelets seem as though they would form perfectly to the wrist. I am a big fan of bracelets, especially in a hot, humid environment. The downside, of course, is additional cost when executed in a precious metal, especially platinum. m
it is a watch I always like to see (but very rarely do), with it somehow quirky deisgn with the sunray bezel. You (excellent!) last shot really demonstrates what was in Patek's mind when they designed it. It appears to wear larger than it diameter would suggest. I really need to locate one of these. Thanks again, and congrats to your fine review on another two 'forgotten' watches! Magnus
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