Vacheron Constantin Sub-Second Automatics History

Further evolution of the automatic led to the caliber 1019 in 1956 with central seconds; replacing the 498/499 after only two years in production.

Reference 4958

Although my collecting interests have continued to move backwards in time and pocket watches now dominate the cabinet, the sub-second automatics represent an interesting chapter in the history of V&C so acquiring one has been on my to-do list for a decade.  I am now pleased to share the successful conclusion of that quest, the Ref. 4958 Automatic from 1955.

Antiquorum benefited from close co-operation with VC’s Heritage Department for the Quarter Millennium sale and every piece included a Certificate of Authenticity from the Manufacture.  For this reason, I tend to give the lot notes more credibility.  They revealed that the Ref. 4958 was introduced in 1954 as V&C’s response to the Patek Ref. 2526 launched in ‘53.  Only 34 examples, all with pink gold screw-down cases, were produced with the sub-seconds caliber 498 in that first year.  Two others, still Ref. 4958, were provided with the central seconds caliber 1071.

For 1955, V&C’s Bicentennial year, availability of the caliber 498 was divided between the Ref. 4958 with screw-down pink gold case, and the Ref. 4956 with snapback cases in both yellow and pink gold.  The style of the 4958 and 4956 also differed in the shape of their lugs, the former continuing with its gracefully tapered and concave profile while the latter offered a triangular form.  Dial designs often varied within a single model reference and these are no exception.  What was consistent for 1955 was a change in the AUTOMATIC script from linear to curved, conforming with the arc of the seconds sub-dial.

First Impressions

Focusing on my newly acquired Ref. 4958, I immediately found a few things striking about the case construction.  Firstly, it has a healthy 36mm width (not including crown) which I find suitable for dress watches even today.  Lug to lug, the piece measures a substantial 44mm, which illustrates most effectively the vintage reliance on lug size and style to establish a watch’s presence.

The lug width is a very modern 19mm and immediately launched a hunt for a strap with proper 19-14 vintage taper to compliment a period buckle waiting in the spares box.

Having possessed more than a few V&C’s with 107X automatic movements, I was struck by the effect of the slightly thinner 498 on the case profile (in fact, it wasn’t until the introduction of the ultra-flat caliber 1120 that a thinner automatic was offered by V&C).  With only one tenth of a millimetre difference in movement height, the Ref. 4958 case is a full millimetre thinner than most models with the non-date caliber 1071.  Visually, its slimness is noticeable.

My attention next turned to the unrestored dial, where V&C showcased their skill with metal.  A champlevé technique was used to remove material, filled with enamel and fired, leaving raised lettering and seconds hash marks.  An embossing process introduced fine dots as minute markers.  The dial was then galvanized in matt silver and protected under clear lacquer.  Finally, solid gold Arabic numerals were applied at 3, 9 and 12; filled in with baton markers at five minute intervals.  The crowning touch, a gold Maltese Cross, was placed at high noon. (Edit: see zhixi.jim.zhou’s excellent post below for a detailed description of the champlevé process)

Pink gold baton hands and a domed winding crown appear original, as does the acrylic crystal which has some age-related spider-webbing when viewed from the side.  Thankfully, it doesn’t show in these photos.

A Horb Ball safely opened the case back to reveal the heart of the watch, a P498 full-rotor automatic movement.  Although lacking the bling of its successor’s gold rotor with visible ruby bearings, the movement demonstrates a variety of high-end finishes.  The baseplate is decorated with perlage and the movement plates with Côtes Circulares.  Snailing is also apparent on the rotor weight.  Letters engraved into the plates are highlighted in gold, and rhodium plating is applied for corrosion protection.

The 12-ligne movement has 21 jewels, was adjusted to temperatures, and winds in one direction only; the 1019 introduced bidirectional winding, which was continued with the 1070/1071.  A Parechoc shock absorbing spring is evident on the balance wheel jewel, and a swan-neck fine regulator adjusts a hairspring with Breguet overcoil. 

The movement is clean and kept precise time over 24 hours, so I suspect a service occurred within the past several years; some errant scratches from an ill-fitting case wrench suggest it was not at the hands of a Vacheron & Constantin dealer.  There are no service marks inside the case back, however, the poinçon de maître identifies the case maker as Cédex of Le Locle.

On the wrist, the watch dial shifts from amber to silver depending on the angle of the light.  The pink gold is similarly more or less obvious under different viewing conditions.  The massive rotor makes its presence known with a whirring noise when the wrist is flicked, along with a physical sense of the weight moving around its orbit.  This wasn’t unfamiliar, I’d noticed the same with caliber 107X watches.

The watch was acquired with an original Certificate of Origin, and the efficient people at VC’s Heritage Department completed its provenance with an Extract from the Archives.

Conclusion

While tastes in vintage timepieces change (gawd, even quartz is now in the mix), the rarity and beauty of a few special models will always appeal to the collector.  The Ref. 4958 sub-seconds Automatic, I humbly submit, should be considered as one of those few.

Best Regards, Tick Talk © 2017