Auction Daydreams: Breguet Numerals & Perpetual Calendars

There are few things in this hobby more fun for me than to pour over auction catalogues and marvel at some amazing watches.  (GTGs would be #1.)  The noises and negative thoughts sometimes associated with our hobby fall by the wayside.  The passion comes back; it's just an appreciation for great watches again.  And sometimes you can learn something new.

Right now I am sauntering through catalogues and looking for Breguet-style Arabic numerals.  It is something I've always enjoyed to see -- a connection to classical watchmaking tradition, sort of like with enamel dial watches.

(1) From Phillips Bacs & Russo:  Vacheron Constantin American 1921 QP in Pt, case size 40mm, circa 2008.  I believe that modern VC has squandered much of its historical greatness:  a creative output that has failed to be consistently high-quality and memorable over the years; a lack of that special connection.  But this perpetual calendar, made in a limited release of only 20 pieces, is a very special exception for me.  I stopped in my tracks when I say this page.  Look at those beautiful Arabic numerals -- all 12 shown, none are cut off, they float along with the minute track.  So clean.  The square quad placement of the registers work for me here with the cushion shape case:  it opens up the dial.  Pay notice to the framing of the registers (guessing in white gold).  I love the 45 degree placement of the deep blue moonphase window.  And the wavy guilloche pattern is captivating.  The VC calibre 1120 QP, I believe based on the wonderful JLC 920 base movement, has always bothered me with the dense 48 months register but with this watch, it seems to work okay.  It is all very legible.



Photo from Phillips auction house with Bacs & Russo




Photo from Phillips auction house with Bacs & Russo

(2) From Sotheby's:  Audemars Piguet QP in Pt, case size 36mm, circa 1993.  The AP perpetual calendar is a more classical style.  A smaller watch than the VC, but made about 15 years earlier when tastes ran to more circumspect sizes.  I like this watch even though the dial is very crowded and the Arabic numerals are cut off; it is still balanced and coherent.  Look at the flourish of number 4, very cool.  Look too at the framing around the registers (guessing white gold).  This watch is built on the AP workhorse automatic calibre 2120, another one built from the legendary JLC 920 movement.  AP did not add the leap year indicator until 1995.

Here's a thought to turn over:  AP and PP have been the historical perpetual calendar leaders in watchmaking.  This model here in the 1990's would have been placed against Patek's ref 3940.  The case styles between the two are very similar.  The current market of course has awarded Patek's ref handsomely while the AP has been more of a value play.   
 






Photo from Sotheby's auction house




Photo from Sotheby's auction house

(3) Lastly, we go way way back with Christie's offering:  Minerva single button chronograph in SS, case size 41.5mm, circa 1930.  This is a military watch so it is large.  The lumes have faded now after almost 90 years (I don't know if the lume is original) but there is still enough to draw out the Breguet-style numerals.  Against the glossy black dial, it is gorgeous.  Notice how the number 4 (even though it is cut off) has a similarity with the number 4 from the AP made in the 1990's.  I don't know how this watch has fared so well for almost 100 years, again assuming it has not been refinished.  It is a shame that Minerva is no longer a standalone brand. 






Photo from Christie's


(4) Now a bonus one.  Also from Christie's:  the Breitling Duograph, split seconds chronograph, circa 1944.  Not Breguet style numerals.  Simply gorgeous.  A lot of people are in awe of FP Journe's Only Watch rattrapante but the more I see that FPJ one with the weird tiny registers, the more I prefer the real vintage original from something like this Duograph.  Think about, this Breitling was likely made during World War II and it has survived to this day.  This is the one that will keep me dreaming until it is sold to some lucky new owner.  The condition report is not out yet but if there's nothing substantially wrong with it, I'm guessing it will reach 6 figures.  I think Breitling is going to be the next hot vintage brand.





Photo from Christie's