Vacheron Constantin Ref. 47245 Retrograde Date
Vintage

Vacheron Constantin Ref. 47245 Retrograde Date

By amanico · Aug 14, 2013 · 21 replies
amanico
WPS member · Vacheron Constantin forum
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Amanico presents a detailed photographic essay and personal reflections on the Vacheron Constantin Ref. 47245 Day + Retrograde Date, particularly focusing on the platinum version with a black dial. The author praises its aesthetic virtues, unique case design, and the captivating retrograde date complication.

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A quick warning, this watch is a marvel.

Honestly when I remember, as Respo did some days ago, the Vacheron Catalog from the early 2000's, I have, immediately in mind, the reasons which made me love this brand so much.

There were a lot of watches which expressed Poetry, Romantism, and Beauty, in a delicate and exquisite way.

Some examples? The Mercator, the Les Historiques Chronograph, the Perpetual Calendar Skeleton, the Minute rRepeater deeserve to be mentionned, and this is not an exhaustive list.

It is not a secret that I am not a big fan of dates. Most of the time, I feel they ruin the dial.

Except when they are part of the watch, like the JLC Polaris or the Rolex GMT, or when they add something techniical ( The Big Date we can find on some Ulysse Nardin, JLCs or Lange ), really useful, or... romantic, once again, like... This Reference 47245, which displays a conventional and circular day, and a retrograde date.

Please keep in mind that this reference was not available in platinum, only, but also in rose gold and in white gold.

Both being superb and elegant, but the platinum adds some strenght to these aesthetical virtues.

Let's examine it through some pictures I was able to take, of the platinum version, which comes with a superb black dial.

There is a lot to say about the case...

With a diameter of 37 mm, for a height of 10 mm, we cannot say that it is a flat or thin watch.

BUT the case has, shows, " sweats " Charm, and a lot of character, due to the shape of its lugs.

It has style, without being mannered.





The transparent case back reveals the presence of a movement, the Cal 1126/ 1, which sounds familiar to the Jaeger-Lecoultre Moderator I am....



The movement is the only reserve I have on this watch, a reserve I also feel when it comes to the Mercator. Such lovely, fine, and great watches would have, maybe, deserved something finer. Not that the movement is not good, but I don't think it is at the level of the rest of these watches, in my very personal opinion.

A solid case back would have been a better solution, me think...

The dial is a summit of elegance. Its textured finish, the white gold applied hour markers ( roman numbers and dots ) are not disappointing, as well as the very simple hour, minute and day hands.

To avoid any confusion, the date hand is differently shaped. A subtle contrast.



Well the " passage " of the date is normal till the 31th, seeing it retrograding to the 1st is something spectacular.

Two last comments:

1/ For those who think that 37 mm is too small, I can only recommend to try it.

Small is often the counterpart of " exquisite ", and for a watch of this category, I find the size to be perfect.

2/ Is there a better version than this platinum one? I would say that it is a matter of taste, some preferring colored gold cases, but there is another one which is sublime...

The open dial version:



This is the kind of watch which is consistent with the idea I have of Vacheron Constantin, and one of the reasons of my love for the brand.

Hoping that you had as much pleasure to read this view on this reference, as I had to write it,

Best.

Nicolas

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
RE
respo
Aug 14, 2013
Much pleasure indeed!

Thank you for providing some excellent photos and thoughts on the ref. 47245, Day + Retrograde Date. We do not often get to see this platinum black dial version of the 47245, and it is the loveliest incarnation of the retrograde date from VC in modern times, I think. The more recent and current production Patrimony Contemporaine Retrograde Day And Date ( ref. 86020) is, in fact, the first VC I ever fell in love with. But over time I have come to appreciate the 47245 a bit more. It is, as you say

AM
amanico
Aug 14, 2013
Agreed on the solid case back. It would have been better with.

As for the comparison between this reference and its current version, for me, there is no match. This one is much more appealing. Thanks for your great input, Respo! Best, Nicolas

SP
Spellbound
Aug 14, 2013
You are right !

You are right, this watch is a marvel. I love the black dial on platinum, and the numerals, 2,4,6,8,10,12 is not a common layout, but it makes total sense and aesthically is perfect on this dial. Another one to add to my ever growing list. Simply elegant, and beautiful. Dean

AM
amanico
Aug 14, 2013
The old catalogs offer so many marvels from Vacheron.

Will try to write something on that. Best, Nicolas

4J
4Js
Aug 14, 2013
Ditto

Hi Nicolas, thanks for posting up on this watch, and your spot on comments. I agree with you on all the points you made. Respo covered all the add comments I was going to make. My piece has just finished its time at the spa, and I have to get to NYC boutique to pick it up. (Of course, I will want to see some of the other pieces while I am there!) I just wanted to add one additional point. The guilloche on this dial adds so much to the watch. I have two photos below which show this. Best, Joe

AM
amanico
Aug 14, 2013
You are a lucky fellow, my friend. Just superb, on your wrist.

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