Urban Jürgensen Ref. 8 and Return of Simplicity

ant · 2015-09-04T11:53:44Z

Ant's journey acquiring rare Urban Jürgensen Ref. 8 and 'Return of Simplicity' prototype. A collector's tale of independent watchmaking and unexpected finds.

ant

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

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Ant's candid and humorous account of acquiring two rare Urban Jürgensen timepieces, a Ref. 8 and a prototype 'Return of Simplicity,' offers a unique collector's narrative. His journey, marked by impulsive decisions and unexpected discoveries, highlights the allure of independent watchmaking and the thrill of finding truly special pieces, even when they come with a few surprises.

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As some of you know, I have made something of a specialisation of buying in passionate haste followed by a leisurely repentence whilst contemplating my numerous losses. I have accumulated an incredible number of frequent flyer miles in a little known exclusive club ..."Elite Losers". I have enough miles to take me several times round the world but, unexpectedly, there isn't anyone who will take the miles....odd that!

One of my abiding passions is for Urban Jurgensen. They combine exquisite design and finish with incredible dials. Total class. You might call it a gentleman's watch. Whilst I'm no gentleman I certainly get the message and a man can dream can't he? Their urbane and sophisticated design is, for me, just so.

Rare
About a year ago I was innocently browsing Ebay watch adverts,,,,sorry I'm in denial here and telling you porkies,,,I wasn't innocently browsing,,,,I was viewing hoping, but dreading at the same time, seeing something that pushed my buttons, lit my fire, caused my acquisition glands to pulsate into activity and, oh God!!!!,,,there it was a beautiful Urban Jurgensen Ref 8. What's a guy to do?? Put in an offer,,,,make it low,,,they'll never accept....then you can feel regret at not getting it and sort of self satisfied that you didn't waste any more money. Genius!! Except they accepted. The impulsive biter was bitten!

A few days later a discreet brown envelope arrived and,,,,,you've guessed it....it was basically right but there was a small problem with the dial...and I mean small.
Have I told you that I'm just the tiniest bit OCD? I couldn't live with it......here we go again.... but I suddenly had an idea. Kari Voutilainen undertakes a small number of specialist repairs and, apart from being a real gentleman, is a true mensch. He undertook the repair! All was not lost.

A few weeks later I collected it. First, and importantly, Kari was incredibly generous in his charges,,,,thank you Kari!. Second, and I had to pinch myself to make sure I wasn't dreaming,,,,,it was a quite special watch. Very early UJ with a handmade case. Charmingly, the lugs had unequal spacing so a custom made strap was needed.
What? I didnt really get a good deal,,,how can it be? But yes for once the fickle finger of fate had smiled on me,,,,,sorry about the mixed metaphor.

Not bad is it?

I think it's 'the business'

Rarer
Just a few weeks ago a friend of a friend had a UJ "The Return of Simplicity" for sale. Huh? What's that? After consulting Mr Google I discovered that it was a sort of tougher version of the Ref 8 ,keeping the same design and build values but well,,,,,,tougher.
Right up my street. A price was agreed and another discreet package turned up at Maison Ant.

Nice one!!! Actually better than that, it turns out to be a prototype. No, No! NO!!! It can't be, it's not possible for me to have made two great buys. What is the world coming to? I believe that the great Magnet who rules our lives is just having a giggle at my consternation .....in not being wrong for a change.

I hope you've enjoyed my posting.....HAGWE!!!

Key Points from the Discussion

The Ref. 5 was substantially cheaper than the Ref. 8 before its discontinuation, both using upgraded F. P. Journe movements, and can still be found at good deals from dealers.
Many collectors resonate with the 'Elite Losers' club, acknowledging the financial losses often incurred from impulsive watch purchases, and strive to be more selective in their acquisitions.
Kari Voutilainen's repair of a small dial problem on the Ref. 8, including custom strap creation due to unequal lug spacing, highlights the bespoke nature and craftsmanship involved in servicing early Urban Jürgensen pieces.
The case finishing of early Urban Jürgensen watches is highly refined, prompting questions about whether cases were made in-house or by a specialized casemaker.
The Ref. 5 is generally valued slightly less than the Ref. 8, possibly due to its smaller size and lack of small seconds/date, making a New Old Stock (NOS) Ref. 5 a potentially fair deal.
Urban Jürgensen's new 40mm versions, including platinum, blue dial, and gold with black dial, are praised for their applied numerals or indices, addressing a previous preference over Roman numerals.

The Discussion

amanico

Sep 4, 2015

The black is very much my taste. The gold one too, if only there was not a date which spoild a bit the dial, in my opinion. Funny story behind your two watches. I guess many of us will recognize themselves through your words. Best, Nicolas

Arie - Mr Orange

Sep 4, 2015

but it seems you have bought the last ones.... :-(

ant

Sep 4, 2015

I prefer both of them......entirely different but the same genetic markers. I'm told that they did make Ref 8s without date for special order. Actually I've seen a SS one without date but the winder (and mechanism I assume) still has the step for the date control. Wonderful...cottage industry. Character, HAGWE Antony

ant

Sep 4, 2015

You have to be persistent,,,check, check, check and check again, ad infinitum. To get a bargain, first you have to be there when it comes up.....so OCD rules the day! :)) Antony

dr.kol

Sep 4, 2015

Hi, You saved my day! The sentence above made me laugh like an idiot. Perhaps I'm one... I guess I have learned my lesson. I have bought tons of watches I liked at first sight and after a while I wanted to get rid of the same. And lost tons of cash. The bitter truth is that I can't afford such a game. Thus, when buying new watches I have been forced to consider the possible losses. Naturally, I am not buying anything I would not like but the intolerance of huge financial losses have forced me to

KMII

Sep 5, 2015

I guess many of us are at least latent members of the club, with the potential of accumulating miles at a prodigious pace - all at our respective levels. While I have always admired Urban Jürgensen - from a distance - I never thought about it as anything realistic price-wise. And then I saw a pre-loved Ref. 5 at Chrono, which would be possible at a stretch - and up me some levels in the frequent flier scheme you talked about. The conundrum... In any case, a lovely pair you\'ve got there - especi

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Urban Jürgensen Ref. 8 and Return of Simplicity

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