New Urban Jürgensen Watch Collection Release

quattro · 2025-06-07T14:02:00Z

Explore the new Urban Jürgensen collection with a detailed photographic overview and community insights. Discover the UJ-1 Tourbillon, UJ-2, and UJ-3 models, their movements, and collector reactions to design and pricing.

quattro

WPS member · Independents forum

34 replies5886 views53 photos

Emmanuel (quattro) provides an invaluable photographic overview of the nine new Urban Jürgensen models, offering a detailed look at the brand's revived collection. His initial post serves as a critical resource for collectors to explore the intricate details and design philosophy behind these releases, particularly highlighting the UJ-1 Tourbillon as a significant tribute to horological heritage. This article synthesizes community reactions to Emmanuel's comprehensive presentation, offering diverse perspectives on the new aesthetic and technical innovations.

34 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →

Here's a photographic overview of the 9 new models of the revived Urban Jürgensen brand.

If you want to compare these new models with some of the previous ones: Overview of some Urban Jürgensen.

Best, Emmanuel

A/ The UJ-1 Tourbillon - The 250th Anniversary Watch - A watch made to honour the legendary Urban Jügensen Pratt Oval Pocket Watch (dedicated thread here)

Each of the 3 variants is limited to 25 pieces

39.5 x 12.2 mm case

In-house calibre UJ-1, rose gold-plated, 30 x 8.17 mm, 32 jewels, one-minute tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité constant force, flying barrel, Swiss lever escapement, 18,000vph, 47h power reserve

1/ Ref. UJ-1-RG-S-001 (rose gold, silver dial)

credit: monochrome & a blog to watch (one before last only)

2/ Ref. UJ-1-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial)

credit: a blog to watch

3/ Ref. UJ-1-PT-G-001 (platinum, grey dial)

credit: monochrome & a blog to watch (last photo)

B/ The UJ-2 - Three-Hand watch with Double-Wheel Natural Escapement

39 x 10.9 mm

In-house calibre UJ-2, rose gold-plated, 30 x 5.5 mm, 32 jewels, free-sprung balance with direct double-wheel escapement, 18,000vph, 52h power reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds

1/ Ref. UJ-2-PT-B-001 (platinum, blue dial)

credit: monochrome (1) & a blog to watch

2/ Ref. UJ-2-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial)

credit: a blog to watch

3/ Ref. UJ-2-RG-B-001 (rose gold, blue dial)

credit: a blog to watch

4/ Ref. UJ-2-RG-S-001 (rose gold, silver dial)

credit: a blog to watch

C/ The UJ-3 Double-Wheel Natural Escapement Perpetual Calendar with Instantaneous Moonphase

This model was made in collaboration with Andreas Strehler

39 x 13.9 mm

In-house calibre UJ-3 integrated perpetual calendar, 30mm x 8.1mm, 42 jewels, free-sprung balance with direct double-wheel escapement, 18,000vph, 52h power reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar instantaneous jump mechanism at midnight for the indications and the moon, leap year indicator on the movement

1/ Ref. UJ-3-PT-B-001 (platinum, black dial)

credit: a blog to watch

2/ Ref. UJ-3-RG-B-001 (rose gold, black dial)

credit: monochrome (1-3 & 11) & a blog to watch (4-10)

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber: DB2105

Case: 18k White Gold

Diameter: 44.5 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The new short lugs are a polarizing design element; while some find them original and believe they would wear well, others feel they are stubby and don't integrate cohesively with the overall design.
The UJ-1 Tourbillon, a tribute to Derek Pratt's Oval pocket watch, is considered a masterpiece due to its incredible movement depth, flying barrel, central bridge, and integrated remontoir, justifying its 12.2mm thickness for some collectors.
There is a general consensus that the pricing of the new Urban Jürgensen models, particularly the UJ-2 time-only watch, is very high, with one collector suggesting it should be priced below competitors like the Voutilainen Vingt-8 and the 100k CHF psychological threshold.
The new collection has moved away from Urban Jürgensen's characteristic Breguet numerals and hands, adopting a design language that some feel resembles Breguet's own workshop, discarding proven elements of beauty.
While the UJ-1 Tourbillon's thickness is accepted by some due to its complex movement, the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar is widely considered too thick, and the UJ-2's dial design is not as universally appreciated for its purity.
Despite some criticisms regarding design elements and pricing, the movement finish and dial quality of the new Urban Jürgensen watches are generally acknowledged as good.

The Discussion

ChetBaker

Jun 7, 2025

Thanks for sharing!

Very nice dials and movements. Don’t find the short stubby lugs appealing. They also seem to sit akwardly high, making the cases look like hockey pucks (somewhat Dato-esque if that’s a word). Mmm, not convinced by the overall package.

quattro

Jun 7, 2025

Thickness bothers me too,

but I find the unusual lugs very interesting. And the tribute-to-the-Oval-Tourbillon is a pure masterpiece: if I could afford it I think I would buy the rose gold UJ-1 without the slightest hesitation despite the thickness. Best, Emmanuel

dedestexhes

Jun 7, 2025

Honestly, they are all way to thick

I just don’t get it, UJ always have been quite elegant. Not these monstrosities…. And as said before, on top of that, prices do not make sense for “normal “ people. Just my 2 cents, Dirk

quattro

Jun 7, 2025

I understand your point of view, Dirk.

But, for me, the Tourbillon in tribute to Derek Pratt’s Oval pocket watch is a masterpiece and, could I afford it, I would buy the UJ-1 in rose gold. Yes, it’s 12.2 mm thick, but it’s what enables to have such incredible depth in the movement and this wonderful central bridge and flying barrel. Furthermore I’m almost sure that photos make things look worst than they are in reality. Just my own take on these pieces of course. Best, Emmanuel

Watchonthewrist

Jun 7, 2025

I really like them , need to see them in person first to make a judgement ofcourse.

The thing i dislike is their prices 🫣

quattro

Jun 7, 2025

Yes, these watches are unaffordable for most of us,

unfortunately, especially the one which is the most important imo, the UJ-1… Best, Emmanuel