Ulysse Nardin GMT Perpetual 42mm Platinum Review

Marcus Hanke provides a 'peek review' of the Ulysse Nardin 42mm Limited Edition Platinum GMT Perpetual, a watch that blends the brand's classic perpetual calendar complication with the distinctive 'Sonata-style' design. Hanke explores the initial reactions to this design evolution and its place within Ulysse Nardin's diverse portfolio.

Living perpetually Sonata-style

A peek review of the
limited edition 42mm GMT Perpetual in platinum

by Marcus Hanke

Maybe you know the situation: you are an avid fan of a certain style, a certain design. And then comes the same product in new clothes, in a radically changed design. The natural reaction is opposition. Online communities are full of fierce battles for and against BMW’s new 7 class, for and against the remake of classic movies, and - sometimes - for and against the design of certain watches.

It is no secret that I always loved the classic design of Ulysse Nardin’s GMT Perpetual, which I had the privilege to subject to a long experience test. For me, this is still the absolutely perfect watch. the various limited editions of this watch did not differ much from the standard production series, only the slightly larger case and the COSC chronometer certificate, and of course the case material made them special.

But now, the GMT Perpetual’s limited edition cousins are really special: their case and the hands received a design similar to that of the unique alarm watch “Sonata”. The first limited edition was that in a 42mm wide platinum case, and my initial reaction, when I saw it, followed the rule mentioned above: opposition.

However, I have to admit that this was a mistake. This watch is absolutely attractive, but certainly different. Its design will polarize the opinions, many will dislike it, the others will adore it. In my opinion, it is a thrilling combination of elegance and boldness.

Let’s have a look at this watch: As mentioned above already, the platinum case has a diameter of 42 millimeters. This larger size, compared with the 40mm standard, is due to the uniquely protruding guards, into which the two pushers for the time zone adjustment blend perfectly. These pushers always appeared not to match the classic design of the GMT Perpetual really well, although their functionality outweighed this small disadvantage. Now, they are part of the watch’s overall design.

The other style element departing far from the sober and clean outlines are the hands. These are taken from the Sonata. When this watch was released, the hands were quite disputed, and sometimes respectlessly called “moustache”. The design originated from Rolf Schnyder himself, who desired a design that reminds of the elegant clef used in musical composition, but also permits an obstructed view on the watch’s various indications and subdials.

The latter is very important for the GMT Perpetual as well, and this is why these hands work so well with it. All date indication windows can be read at any time, while there is still enough luminosity on the hands’ tips to make the watch legible at night. Once again, I admire the perfect heat-blued finish and polishing of the hands, which is typical for Ulysse Nardin. The curved shapes are repeated by the attractive wave design stamped into the silver dial, as well as the three applied and polished Arabian numerals.

As mentioned already, the movement is certified by the Swiss chronometer institute, the COSC.

A wonderful and unique timepiece, limited to 500 pieces.

(c) 2008 Marcus Hanke, PuristSpro

added to Editor's Pick