Marcus Hanke provides an in-depth look at Ulysse Nardin's novelties from Baselworld 2010, challenging initial expectations of minor updates. His report highlights significant innovations, including a groundbreaking 'tourbillon within a tourbillon' in the Freak Diavolo and the striking GMT Perpetual El Toro. Hanke's detailed observations and photography offer a comprehensive overview of the brand's creative direction.
Last year, Ulysse Nardin had presented the fascinating “Moonstruck” and the highly complex desk clock “Planet Earth”. According to the two-years-rule, major inhouse innovations are released every two years. So I did not expect something really new, aside from dial and case variants and facelifts. I was wrong, though.
Basel 2010: Ulysse Nardin
by Marcus Hanke
When I had thought that after countless tourbillons in all imaginable variations, nothing can surprise me any more, Ulysse Nardin once again proved me wrong: Integrating a tourbillon into a tourbillon, was something new even for me. The
“Diavolo” is a Freak that adds a minute tourbillon onto the movement part that itself serves as hour caroussel (tourbillon). This looks extremely cool, enhanced by the fact that this is the first all-black “Freak” movement, which will cause joy with all those asking for a black “Freak” lately. All this catapults the “Diavolo” straight to the top of my personal list of the most endeavored “Freak” variants.
The case will be subject to several changes, which is why I cropped it from my pictures. Thus I avoid a wrong overall expression of the watch.
Unfortunately, I barely had time to shoot these pictures, so I could not change the rather unlucky constellation of the "hands"
Another novelty is the GMT Perpetual
“El Toro” (the Bull), that has been briefly discussed already. its name derived from the bullhead-like shape of the upper plate.
Other features of this highly unique and impressive design variant are the ceramic bezel and pushers, as well as the visible disks of month and year indication. Movement plates and rotor are coated with grey ruthenium. “El Toro” is available in pink and white gold, with brown and black straps in alligator leather and rubber. Both editions are limited to 500 pieces each.
While the opinions on the “Blue Seal” were divided, I predict a nearly unanimous vote in favour of this year’s limited edition blue diving watch, called
“Hammerhead Shark”. On this Maxi Diver, made from polished titanium, and combined with either bezel and crown from pink gold or from steel, really everything is matching perfectly: the hands have the correct lengths, power reserve, oversized small second and the white markers all have a distinct and modern look. The dial features the unique outlines of the hammerhead shark, repeated on the rubber strap links of pink gold or titanium.
Remaining at the diving watches for the moment, I found the
Maxi Diver to be refreshed a bit, resulting in an even more attractive appearance, if that is possible: the hands of power reserve and permanent second are modernised, following the more recent design outlines used by UN. More prominent, though, are the new wave-pattern dial texture and the black coated revolving bezel, which makes it much easier to read than the former all-steel variant. Currently, only the black version is shown, but I do not doubt that the silver-white variant will follow soon.
As a highly pleasant design I consider the new variant of the
Dual Time GMT with small second. Its strong design elements, such as the skeletonised hands reminding of the “Quadrato”, the sweeping, yet cleverly integrated numerals 12 and 6 (quoting the "El Toro"), the small second hand itself, that sweeps over a 180 degrees circle segment only, and finally the stripe structure of the dial surface, add up to a very nice whole. Currently launched as 18k gold case with grey dial, and stainless steel with black face.
The most recent version of the Dual Time, the
“Executive Dual Time” presented last year, became an instant success. For many people, however, the oversized Roman numerals appeared a bit too dominant on the dial. For them, UN has now made a silver/white dial, which reduces the contrast with the numerals.
A highly attractive Ladies’ version with white mother-of-pearl dial, white ceramic parts and diamonds is also added to the line.
A diamond-studded white
“Caprice” features the depiction of a tiger’s head on the dial. Note the green-gem eyes and the pink tongue!
The novelties in the group of ladies’ watches are completed by an unlimited version of the
Lady Diver “Starry Night” with stainless steel case.
Finally, two absolute specialities mark the end of this year’s novelty presentation: First, another
San Marco Cloisonné is added to the ships series, for the first time showing a Russian ship: the
“Shtandart” was a frigate built under the reign of tsar Peter the Great, and marks the birth of the Russian navy. It is shown under sail in front of the “skyline” of contemporary Saint Petersburg. The watch comes packed in a jewellery egg, made in the fashion of the famous Fabergé eggs.
The other watch is a true tradition piece, since hand-skeletonised and engraved watches are offered by UN since many years already. Now, another small series of these watches is released, using old movements, which are skeletonised and engraved by hand.
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2010-03-25 08:03:41 This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2010-04-12 00:25:54 
