Arronax, a seasoned collector, delves into the 'sport chic' segment, exploring watches that blend everyday wearability with refined aesthetics. His detailed review of models from Piaget, Bulgari, and Breguet offers a critical perspective on design, comfort, and value within the USD5-15k price bracket. This article provides invaluable insights for enthusiasts seeking versatile timepieces that bridge the gap between casual and formal.
First, let's get the elephant out of the room: for those of us who lived through the 70s, there's only one answer (youngsters can just follow links to get warmed up:
Le Freak! and
La Freak!)
Joke aside, I have been looking at what I would call the sport chic segment, watches with 100m of WR, mostly in steel with blue dials, available on both bracelet & rubber with a bit more polish than some of my divers. All watches can be bought new or preowned with no waiting list, in the USD5-15k. Not that I necessarily want or can strech that much but it's always interesting to see what upper tier brands have to offer.
Starting off with the Piaget Polo date in 42mm. I am aware of the negative perception due to obvious PP design inspiration but in the metal the watch is a mostly cohesive and compelling product. Extremely comfortable, with just the right amount of interesting touches to stand out while staying relatively under the radar. The bracelet does not have a micro adjustment but the biggest show stopper for me is the lack of a screw-down crown, it's such a miss in this category, really difficult to forgive against the competition. Not that I plan to go scuba diving with it but the piece of mind is real. I had to ask the salesperson to remove the wrapping as I couldn't believe him. It reminds me about AP bragging about spending 7 years on the code59 case only to find out on release date it only offered 30m WR.
Next, two models from Bulgari; the Scuba and the Octo Roma. As a dive watch person I have always been impressed by the scuba, it offers a great balance of function and style without too much compromise, all that at a very competitive price, especially on the gray market, new or used. The bracelet was more comfortable than anticipated. Very understated and under the radar with this dark blue dial:
Next the current version of the Octo Roma. I didn't even know about this model until one of my coworkers bought one. On the gray market and for about twice the price of a scuba, you get a clou de paris dial, a very comfortable bracelet and a screw down crown. The watch even comes with a matching blue rubber strap and quick release buttons under the case. At around USD7k this feels like a very strong value proposition.
Finally and because I had never tried them before, a selection of Breguet Marine models. The worst part of the current line-up is the indices which lack elegance and look like an afterthought, although it is less noticeable in the metal. Credit to BP for providing a screw-down crown on this model!
The most affordable and lightest model,Titanium on rubber strap. The deployant buckle felt a bit dainty:
Next in line, white gold on leather. The wave pattern on the dial is really attractive considering the marine theme:
The difference in metal is less obvious than one would expect due to many polished surfaces on the titanium version:
Beautiful movement on display:
Finally the full Titanium model on matching bracelet. Finish was excellent and the watch exuded quality from every angle:
In conclusion, the Octo Roma felt like the most compelling product (well under 10k) and the Breguet Marine Titanium the most luxurious for those with deep pockets at almost 3x the price of the Roma.
