RDSChicago introduces his newly acquired 1963 Seikomatic SilverWave J12082 Mark 1, a historically significant timepiece often considered Seiko's first diver's watch. This detailed post highlights its unique features and historical importance, sparking a community discussion on its technical innovations and vintage appeal.
A new acquisition received just today. Fully serviced 1963 Seikomatic SilverWave J12082 Mark 1 “Snowflake/Starburst”. Diameter is 37mm, Lug width of 18mm, with 11.5mm thickness.
The vintage Seikomatic Silverwaves were powered by Cal 603 (renamed 6201), the basis of all 62xx movements (including the 62MAS and early 6215 300M diver). This was Seiko’s FIRST: (1) diver’s watch, (2) crown at 4, (3) inner rotating bezel, (4) tsunami wave symbol on the caseback, and (5) automatic watch with a screw-down case back. Not only do all those firsts make it historically significant, but additionally, Nick at DCVW reports some evidence that US Special Forces used it (this Silverwave early 60s, while 62MAS not till ’65, later followed later by MACV-SOG’s more well-known use of 6619, 6119, 7005, etc.)
Some consider this to be Seiko’s very first foray into dive watches. The SilverWave was rated at 50m, and though it hardly resembles a modern dive watch, its importance to the brand can’t be overstated. It is the foundation on which generations of diver innovations and milestones have been built. The 50m Seikomatic Silverwave J12082 was only produced for about three years and was followed in 1964 by the cheaper and relatively more common 30m Sportsmatic Silverwave version.
This example from August of 1963 is really spectacular. The silvery white sunburst dial bears the eight-pointed star making it an “SD” (“Special Dial”). This included intricate finishes and upgraded (often solid gold indices). Setting the Mark 1 version apart is the cross finish “snowflake” or “starburst” pattern that radiates outward to the markers from the center. In addition, the printing varies from the standard model by foregoing the “50m” line and moving the “Diashock 20 Jewels” line from the 12 side to the 6.
The original luminous plots are intact and set just inside of each polished white gold marker along the tips of the snowflake. Each has developed an even khaki patina. The dial transitions lacquered black inner bezel via a beveled minute chapter, and well proportioned “count up” printing. Zero is marked with a large white crest, and luminous triangle. The bezel is rotated bidirectionally via the crown. The hour and minute hands are sharply tapered dauphines, and have retained their polished finish, and the luminous windows share the same warm patina as the hour markers.
The long and slender sweep counting the seconds reaches well into the subtle minute hashes framing the dial. The case is unpolished with sharp corners and bevels. It’s completely original other than a replacement crystal and CNS “Tropic Sport” black composite strap.
About the Cartier Calatrava Ref. 6119
The Calatrava reference 6119G-001 represents a contemporary interpretation of a classic dress watch, distinguished by its hobnail bezel. This particular reference, launched in 2021, updates the design language of previous Calatrava models while retaining core aesthetic principles. It is positioned as a refined option for collectors seeking a modern dress watch with traditional finishing.
This reference features a white gold case, measuring 39mm in diameter and 8.43mm in thickness. It houses the manual-wind caliber 30-255 PS, which provides a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers water resistance up to 30 meters. The dial is charcoal gray with a subtle grained texture.
Appealing to collectors who appreciate understated design and mechanical precision, the 6119G-001 offers a blend of traditional watchmaking and contemporary sizing. Its hobnail bezel is a signature element, linking it to historical models while presenting a fresh appearance within the current Calatrava collection. It is available in both white gold and rose gold variants.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 30-255 PS
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 39mm
- Dial
- Charcoal gray
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
