Cazalea offers a comprehensive overview of the Seiko Presage series, focusing on its diverse models and underlying technologies. This article serves as an excellent guide for collectors navigating the brand's accessible yet sophisticated mechanical offerings.
With all the flurry of buying, gnashing of teeth during the wait for delivery, despair over missing out on limited editions ... I decided it might be worth a short review of the new Presage line-up. Contrary to popular opinion, there are a few non-limited choices that we can indulge in. Notice that there are two lines, the Prestige and the Basic (and there are more models than the 8 shown here). There are men's and women's watches, with case sizes from 34 - 42mm on strap or bracelets. List prices range from $500-2500.
MOVEMENTS
Depending on the level, you can choose from a variety of movements. They are all automatic, mechanical movements (so far).
- 4R35 date window
- 4R36 day/date windows
- 4R38 no date
- 4R39 date, GMT
- 4R57 date hand, power reserve
- 6R15 date window
- 6R27 date hand, power reserve
- 8R48 column wheel chrono with date window
(see my follow-up article Part 2 for more details on these movements)
Seiko describes a set of technologies that are fundamental to the Presage line:
MAGIC LEVER
Invented in 1959, this greatly increases winding efficiency, and reduces time required to wind the main spring. The V-shaped lever allows energy generated by the oscillating weight to be transferred to the main spring. The Magic Lever system has now been adopted by leading watchmakers throughout the world. [Is this really the best they can do to differentiate Presage in their line-up? The Magic Lever? Ed.]
SPRON
Spron mainspring and hairspring alloys were developed jointly by Seiko and the Metal Materials Laboratory of Tohoku University and used exclusively in Seiko watches (and some other non-watch applications). Spron features superior elasticity, strength, and corrosion and heat resistance.
SAPPHIRE
Presage watches feature sapphire crystals with a Seiko proprietary anti-reflective coating, on both the front and back, preventing 99% of light reflection and ensures that beautiful dials are easily legible, even in bright light.
LEATHER
Most Presage watches have a leather strap that is treated to be comfortable and attractive from the first wearing.
Getting away from technology and timekeeping, let's move on to what really counts with these watches -- from a style point of view we must admit that the Enamel (and Urushi) dials draw our attention immediately. The hands vary in shape and are nice enough (if nowhere near the Grand Seiko level of finish). But the dials!
DIAL
How Seiko can create their incredible dial designs within the cost parameters of the Presage line is a mystery to me (and other manufacturers, no doubt!). We can say without any fear of contradiction [I can't believe I typed that hackneyed phrase, but it's true!] that Seiko dials are wonderful.
As shown in this photo by Benlee338 and dozens of others on this site.
Here are some images from Seiko's press archives, illustrating steps in the enameling process:
Maybe high-tech equipment ISN'T the only way to production in the 21st century? So please don't complain if your watch is two weeks late, it's a craftsman's choice (or fault).
FEATURES
Of course there are other features, such as Seiko reliability, affordable price and some fascinating complications (center-mounted power reserve hand?)
Let's be thankful we have all these choices!
And let's not forget Mr. Blue Dial:
Seiko Promo Video
I encourage you to visit the Seiko site for more details and the full, baffling array of watches on offer. And sorry, No, I do not get a commission on sales of Seikos.
Cazalea
