Quattro's comprehensive overview of the Grand Seiko First and its numerous recreations since 2001 is an essential resource for understanding a pivotal piece of Japanese horological history. This detailed comparison highlights the subtle yet significant differences across various limited editions, offering collectors and enthusiasts a valuable guide to these historically important timepieces.
The Grand Seiko First, released in 1960, can probably be considered one of the most significant watches in the history of Japanese horology.
It marks the moment when Japan decided to compete directly with Switzerland in the realms of high precision and high finishing.
Since 2001, Grand Seiko has recreated this historic watch many times.
So, here's a complete overview of the recreations made since then: they tend to look alike, but you have to pay attention to the details and, with a bit of luck, you'll make some discoveries.
1960 - GRAND SEIKO "FIRST" REF. J14070
35 Γ 10.5 mm case - Hand-wound caliber 3180
The dial features:
- "Chronometer" under the Grand Seiko logo
- The Special Dial logo (the octagonal sun shaped star) underneath the Diashock text: this symbol indicates that the indices are made from solid precious metal, and not just plated
a/ 14k gold filled variant 
credit: Arbitro
b/ Platinum variant 
credit: Christieβs
2001 - REF. SBGW004
120th Anniversary of Seiko (1881-2001) - Limited edition of
300 pieces The word β
Chronometerβ is
missing from the dial under the Grand Seiko logo
35 mm case & caliber
9S54
Pin buckles: Ref.J14070 (left) & Ref. SBGW004 (right)
credit: @classyman_watches, @seiko.addict, kyotoya78 & antiwatchman
2011 - 130th ANNIVERSARY OF SEIKO
All three references: 35.8 mm case and caliber 9S64
The word βChronometerβ is missing from the dial under the Grand Seiko logo
1/ STEEL REF. SBGW033
Limited to
1300 piecesNo Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
credit: Hodinkee
2/ PLATINUM REF. SBGW039
Limited to
130 piecesNo Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text: as the indices of this platinum version were probably made out of precious metal, the absence of the SD mark could be a design decision, in order to keep a consistent dial design across the three models released that year
credit: Phillips & Arizona Fine Time (2)
2/ YELLOW GOLD REF. SBGW040
Limited to
130 piecesAgain,
no Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
credit: @tedsustraps & Grand Seiko
2017 - GRAND SEIKO SEPARATES FROM ITS PARENT COMPANY
All three references: 38 mm case & caliber 9S64
No word βChronometerβ under the Grand Seiko logo, but the platinum and yellow gold variants feature the Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
Platinum ref. SBGW251 (left) - Yellow gold ref. SBGW252 (centre) - Steel ref. SBGW253 (right)
credit: Sjx
1/ Ref. SBGW251 platinum
Limited to
136 pcs as
2017 was the
136th Anniversary of
Seiko
2/ Ref. SBGW252 yellow gold
Limited to
353 pcs as the
Grand Seiko First was
launched on the
353rd day of
1960:
December 18th
3/ Ref. SBGW253 steel
Limited to
1960 pcs as the
Grand Seiko First was
launched in
1960
credit: Sjx (platinum), Monochrom (yellow gold) & Special dial (steel)
2020 - 60th ANNIVERSARY OF GRAND SEIKO
All three references: 38 mm case & caliber 9S64
Introduction of the display case back
1/ PLATINUM REF. SBGW257
Carved Grand Seiko
logoNo word β
Chronometerβ under the Grand Seiko logo, but
Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
credit: Monochrome
2/ YELLOW GOLD REF. SBGW258
No word βChronometerβ under the Grand Seiko logo, but Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
credit: Fratello
3/ BRILLIANT HARD TITANIUM & DEEP BLUE DIAL REF. SBGW259
No word βChronometerβ under the Grand Seiko logo and no Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
Platinum SBGW257 (left) & titanium SBGW259 (right)
credit: Monochrome
2021 - SEIKO'S 140th ANNIVERSARY
All three references: 38 mm case & 9S64 caliber with additional gold plate featuring the Seikosha βSβ trademark
No word βChronometerβ under the Grand Seiko logo, but Special Dial logo (octagonal star)
1/ PINK GOLD REF. SBGW260
First recreation in pink gold
2/ PLATINUM REF. SBGW271
Limited to only
12 pieces
Additional strap coming with the watch
credit: @plus9time
3/ PLATINUM REF. SBGZ005
37.5 mm case
9R02 manually wound Spring Drive caliber (reason why there is no "Diashock" text on the dial at 6 o'clock)
Limited to 50 pieces commemorating the 160th anniversary of the birth of Seikoβs founder, Kintaro Hattori
I have also previously included this piece in the following thread:
Five Micro Artist Studio Masterpieces
credit: @watchbonsai
2023 - 110th ANNIVERSARY OF THE "LAUREL", THE VERY FIRST SEIKO WRISTWATCH
38 mm
brilliant hard titanium case &
9S64 caliber
Black urushi lacquer dial, with hand painted 24-carat gold powder maki-e hour indices and lettering
No word βChronometerβ under the Grand Seiko logo and no Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
2024 - SINGAPORE LIMITED EDITION, REF. SBGW315
38 mm titanium case & caliber 9S64
Patterned, powder blue dial
No word βChronometerβ under the Grand Seiko logo and no Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
Limited to 88 pieces for the opening of Grand Seiko's first Boutique in Singapore
Additional strap coming with the watch
credit: Belmont Watches, @luxuria_cockaigne & @tokei.dokei
Is there a particular model you like?
Best, Emmanuel
About the Cartier Ref. SBGW253
The Cartier Ballon Bleu is a distinctive model known for its rounded case and integrated crown protector, which houses a cabochon sapphire. This design element gives the watch a smooth, pebble-like appearance, differentiating it from other Cartier collections. The Ballon Bleu line is offered in a wide range of sizes and materials, making it a versatile choice within the brand's catalog. Its design emphasizes fluidity and comfort, contributing to its broad appeal.
The 42mm Ballon Bleu features a stainless steel case, providing a robust yet refined presence on the wrist. The watch is typically fitted with an automatic movement, ensuring reliable timekeeping. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, offering scratch resistance and clear legibility. The design prioritizes wearability, with its curved profile allowing it to sit comfortably on various wrist sizes.
This model appeals to collectors seeking a contemporary Cartier design that balances traditional watchmaking with a unique aesthetic. The Ballon Bleu's distinctive form factor and various configurations, including different dial treatments and strap options, offer collectors a range of choices. Its consistent presence in the Cartier collection underscores its enduring appeal as a modern classic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 9S64
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 42mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
