Independents
Dje shares his deep impressions of Ressence watches, a brand that captivated him at Baselworld 2010 and later at the Paris salon Belles Montres. His article highlights the unique design philosophy of founder Benoît Mintiens, emphasizing the brand's distinct approach to time display and independent watchmaking.
Watch shows don't always let much time to have an extensive look an all things exposed and I saw a watch at Baselworld 2010 that let me a deep impression even if I had seen it only a few seconds, but some regrets not having seen it more. So I was very pleased to see Ressence again at the Paris salon Belles Montres last month.
Benoit Mintiens is Belgian, a nationality not often associated with horology. Certainly a somewhat neutral origin allowed him to create a watch with no roots and consequently with a unique personality.
Ressence offers a range of several graphic combinations on the same basis. I will not explain the different versions available, the Ressence web site will do it better than I can.
What I want to emphasize on the contrary is the genius of the concept, the principle of the watch. Have a look below and imagine a minute hands fixed on a rotating dial, taking half of the dial diameter and opposed to a smaller dial based on the same principle with a rotating hour hand.
You then complete the hour and minute hands with a seconds dial and a AM/PM indicator in two small dials (with their own rotating hands) set on both sides of the minute hand.
The principle is quite pleasing, funny to look at, surprisingly readable, innovative, appealing…..
Furthermore I appreciate this original reading, what many independent watchmakers offer today, but here with a total lack of pretention, of show off. This watch doesn't try to look complicated, like too many others seem to try to do. Don't take me wrong. I don't aim to criticize others, I just want to say that I appreciate an originality offered with subtlety.
The watch is based on an efficient ETA base 2824. I've owned several watches with this calibre and if it is not a high horology calibre, it is definitely a well conceived and made calibre, efficient, reliable, and for the future certainly easy to get serviced. As you don't get to see it and as it certainly takes its share in allowing a somewhat affordable price I'm glad it was chosen.
The dial is quite original in its living, the rest of the watch is not deceiving either. The 42mm case is modernly designed and quite appealing too. The strap attachments are thin and elegant and the large crown reduces the impression of largeness of the watch.
The boxed glass takes its share in the beauty of the object and perfectly fits with the case. It also helps the great visibility of the dial.
Due to the principles of the watch running, hands are never superposed and this facilitates the readability. I'm sure it contributes a lot to the serenity brought by the timepiece too. The hands move in perfect harmony and never reach the others.
The straps are nicely made and are offered in a large range of materials and colours. To some extent Ressence is opened to personalization and you may get the combination of your choice between the several materials and finish of the case, the different materials of the dial which is part of the module added by Ressence to the calibre 2824, and the straps.
The watch is quite modern and at the same time possibly formal or casual as you want to accommodate it. At the same time you easily imagine it an instant classic.
If understatement can be a proof of fine taste you certainly have a nice option here. The watch will probably remain rare too and not seen at every GTG.
I must say that unfortunately I've not been offered a Ressence watch to write all this. It's always like that they create extraordinary watches and let you with an empty and desperate wrist. That's life!
I hope you'll have an opportunity to see this watch someday (and me again too).
Best
Dje
and the unique display is appealing too. It would be a great addition to someone like Graham or myself with wacky watches (regulators, one-handers, backwards dials, etc) but I don't know if it would catch on in general Perhaps with watches, like the qwerty keyboard, we are forever wedded to a standard configuration 3 hands central arbor (with many deviations on the side) Cazalea
my only concern is that the crown looks a bit big to me but the concept, great! Is it possible to buy it yet? I see no dealers or prices on the website. Thanks for the review! Best Andreas
To make understand how the time display works, I shot it at Basel: I have followed Benoît since the first release of the watch. I really like it a lot and was really impressed by the improvements brought in the last version when compared with the previous one, the main important being the absorber between the module and the 2824. Thanks a lot for your post Jérôme! Fr.Xavier This message has been edited by foversta on 2011-12-27 14:45:37
How fantastic! Fell in love with it!!! www.youtube.com One of the "livest" mechanical watches I've ever seen, not to mention the outstanding design.
I just opened a holiday card and small present from the US distributor of Ressence and checked out the same watch and similarly intrigued by it (I just bought a pair of Tourbillon Cufflinks while ago). Thanks for the report. This is indeed an interesting watch and hope to see in person someday next year Ken
It's got a unique time display, which is one of the features I adore in a watch. Also, I think the use of the tried and true ETA 2824 is smart. Like you wrote, nobody will see the movement and it will easily be serviced years from now. This mitigates much of the risk in buying independent. I look forward to seeing future watches from Ressence. Thanks for the review, Dje! Cheers, Daos
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