Phillips Geneva Auction: Rare Timepieces Exhibition

The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 is a notable example within the Submariner line, distinguished by its two-line dial and lack of a date complication. Produced for an extended period, it represents a core offering for collectors seeking a straightforward and robust tool watch. Its design emphasizes legibility and functionality, aligning with the original purpose of the Submariner series. This reference is recognized for its consistent aesthetic throughout its production run, with subtle variations in dial text and bezel inserts.

The watch features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, offering durability and water resistance suitable for its intended use. Powering the reference 5513 is the automatic Caliber 1520 movement, known for its reliability. The crystal is acrylic, contributing to the vintage character of the watch. The unidirectional rotating bezel, typically with an aluminum insert, allows for elapsed time measurement.

For collectors, the reference 5513 is a significant model due to its long production history and the various dial iterations, such as gilt and matte dials, which present distinct collecting opportunities. Its appeal lies in its foundational design and its position as a non-date Submariner, making it a desirable piece for those who appreciate the model's original form. The watch is often paired with an Oyster bracelet, completing its functional aesthetic.

The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.

This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.

For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.

The Rolex Submariner reference 5514 is a specialized variant of the Submariner line, produced exclusively for COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises), a French industrial deep-sea diving company. This reference is distinguished by its unique helium escape valve, integrated into the left side of the case, a feature not found on standard Submariner models of its era. It represents a purpose-built tool watch designed for professional saturation divers, setting it apart from other Submariner references intended for broader commercial release. Its limited production and specific client make it a notable piece within the brand's history of professional watches.

The case of the reference 5514 is crafted from stainless steel, typically measuring 40mm in diameter. It houses an automatic movement, likely the Rolex Caliber 1520 or 1530, known for its robustness and reliability. The watch is fitted with a Plexiglas crystal, consistent with Rolex sports models from the mid-20th century, providing durability and ease of maintenance in demanding environments. The helium escape valve is a key technical modification, allowing accumulated helium to escape during decompression without damaging the watch crystal.

This reference appeals to collectors interested in specialized Rolex tool watches and those with a focus on professional diving equipment. Its association with COMEX and the presence of the helium escape valve make it a distinct and highly sought-after model. Variants often include dials with the COMEX logo, further emphasizing its unique provenance. The 5514 occupies a specific niche, representing a period when Rolex collaborated directly with professional organizations to develop watches tailored for extreme conditions.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 16660, often referred to as the "Triple Six," represents a significant transitional model within the Sea-Dweller lineage. It was the first Sea-Dweller to incorporate a sapphire crystal, a crucial upgrade that enhanced its pressure resistance and durability compared to its plexiglass predecessors. This reference also marked the introduction of a larger helium escape valve, further solidifying its professional dive watch credentials and distinguishing it from earlier iterations. It bridges the gap between the vintage four-digit references and the more modern five-digit models.

This reference features a 40 mm stainless steel Oyster case, designed for extreme depths. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 3035, a robust movement known for its reliability and quick-set date function. The watch is equipped with a sapphire crystal, contributing to its impressive water resistance of 1220 meters (4000 feet). The unidirectional rotating bezel allows for precise timing of immersion, and the Oyster bracelet ensures secure wear during demanding activities.

For collectors, the 16660 is notable for its transitional characteristics, offering both vintage appeal with its matte dial variants in early production and the enhanced technical specifications of later models. It appeals to those seeking a robust tool watch with historical significance, representing a key evolutionary step in Rolex's professional dive watch development. The reference is recognized for its engineering advancements and its role in the continuous refinement of the Sea-Dweller series.

The Rolex Submariner reference 16610 is a robust and functional diver's watch, representing a key evolution within the Submariner lineage. It succeeded the reference 168000 and introduced incremental updates while maintaining the core design principles of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its use of 904L stainless steel and a sapphire crystal, enhancing its durability and water resistance for demanding use. It remained a cornerstone of the brand's sports watch offerings for many years.

This reference features a 40mm case crafted from 904L stainless steel, housing the automatic Caliber 3135 movement. This self-winding mechanical movement is known for its reliability and precision, offering a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 300 meters (1,000 feet), secured by a Triplock winding crown. The unidirectional rotating bezel is equipped with an aluminum insert.

The 16610 appeals to collectors seeking a modern classic Submariner that bridges the gap between vintage and contemporary iterations. It represents the last generation of Submariners with an aluminum bezel insert before the introduction of ceramic bezels. Variants primarily involve minor dial changes over its production run, such as lug hole cases versus no lug hole cases, and the transition from tritium to Luminova luminescence. Its long production period makes it a widely recognized and accessible reference.