In this insightful overview, quattro delves into the Patek Philippe Ref. 1543, a vintage model often overlooked due to its distinctive 'Mickey Mouse' lugs. Emmanuel's meticulous research uncovers the reference's historical significance, including its surprising production longevity and ownership by legendary collector Henry Graves Jr., making a compelling case for re-evaluating this 'hidden treasure' in Patek Philippe's storied past.
Because of its oversized flared lugs, which have been referred to as βMickey Mouse lugsβ, the Patek Philippe Ref. 1543 is not very popular nowadays.
It was nevertheless popular at some point since, introduced in 1942, it was in production until the early 1950s, making it one of the longest-produced models.
An example of this reference was also owned by none other than one of the most eminent Patek Philippe collector: Henry Graves Jr. (see end of the post).
Here's an overview of the different variants I've been able to identify.
A/ RAISED ENAMEL NUMERALS (WITH HORIZONTAL 3 & 9) AND APPLIED DOT HOUR INDICES
1/ CUT NUMBER 6
This cut 6 is quite surprising and a bit odd.
It might not be my favorite variant, but it's with this dial configuration that I discovered the reference, so I decided to start with it.
credit: Maunder WatchesNow look at this
gorgeous example with a
dial signed by retailer
Serpico y Laino Caracas: the cut 6 is there, but I love this example and would buy it instantly.
credit: bada.orgCould this one be the
same example with a
bracelet instead of the leather strap?
credit: @dr.andrew_hildreth
This one is signed by Tiffany & Co. but the dial is in bad condition and this signature appeals to me less.
credit: AntiquorumThe example below has
leaf hands instead of needle hands: are they
original? I couldn't tell.
credit: BonhamsHere, it's the
seconds hand, which looks
problematic...
credit: Bonhams
One last photo with this dial configuration: the ref. 1543 (lot 137 - with a leaf hour hand...) is with a ref. 2482 (lot 135) and a ref. 1503/1 (lot 136)
credit: Christie's
2/ NO NUMBER 6 I
personally think the dial
looks better without the cut 6.
And this
pink on pink example is quite nice.
credit: @matt.watchesAnother
pink on pink...

credit: @onbehalf
Two examples with a
champagne dial which I find quite nice too.

credit: @wwwatches & Sotheby'sAnd
three examples with a more common
silver dial...
credit: Bonhams, Antiquorum & Sotheby'sNow let's have a look at the
variants with
applied numerals or
hour markers.
B/ APPLIED NUMERALS OR HOUR MARKERS 1/ APPLIED 3, 9 & 12 (WITH HORIZONTAL 3 & 9) This example is
gorgeous, but I think I like the raised enamel dial a little more.

This reference is powered by
manual winding caliber 12-120
credit: Lunar Oyster
A
pink dial example...
credit: AntiquorumAnd an example with a
silver dial
signed by
Roman retailer Hausmann & Co.
credit: Menta Watches (1), Wind Vintage (2-5 & 9) & Hodinkee (6-8)
2/ APPLIED VERTICAL EVEN NUMBERS I find this
layout, with
vertical even numerals less attractive: I miss the horizontal 3 and 9.
credit: @29.8watchesmilano3/ APPLIED 12 AND TRIPLE DOTS AT 3 & 9 This variant
doesn't appeal to me and I have a
doubt concerning the
flat recessed crown: is it
original?
credit: Antiquorum4/ APPLIED INDICES WITHOUT NUMERALS Even though this example has a dial
signed by
Uruguayan retailer
Freccero (Montevideo), it
doesn't appeal to me.
credit: @exposingtimeinc
Finally, here are two rather strange examples.
C/TWO STRANGE EXAMPLES
1/ PAINTED NUMERALS AND INDICES
Is this example sold by Sotheby's authentic? The painted dial with a Tiffany & Co signature seems suspicious to me...
credit: Sotheby's
2/ EXAMPLE WHICH BELONGED TO HENRY GRAVES JR. As is stated by Sotheby's:
βThis Ref. 1543 appears to have been modified with lugs that are similar to the Ref. 1590, most likely by the special request of Henry Graves, Jr. β
credit: Sotheby'sHere's a
regular Ref.
1590 for
comparison.
credit: syuukou.com
Do you like this reference too? And do you have a favorite variant?
I personally love the examples with a raised enamel 3, 9, 12 dial and, even if I find the cut 6 a bit odd, I would love to own the Serpico y Laino example...
Thanks for looking.
Best, Emmanuel
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 2482
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 2482, introduced in 1950 and produced until 1957, represents a distinct design within the Calatrava line, characterized by its larger case diameter for the era and its specific lug configuration. This reference is notable for its departure from the more common straight or gently curved lugs found on many other Calatrava models, offering a bolder wrist presence. It was part of a period of design experimentation for the brand, exploring various aesthetic interpretations of the classic dress watch.
This reference typically features a case crafted from precious metals, housing a manual-winding movement. The case diameter, substantial for its time, contributes to its distinctive appearance. The crystal is commonly acrylic, consistent with watches of this period, protecting a dial that often presents in classic silvered or champagne tones. The movement, a testament to Patek Philippe's horological standards, provides reliable timekeeping.
For collectors, the Reference 2482 is appreciated for its unique design elements and its place in the evolution of the Calatrava series. Its production run, while not as extended as some other references, ensures a certain level of rarity. The model appeals to those seeking a Calatrava with a more pronounced and individualistic case profile, distinguishing it from its more understated counterparts.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 27 SC
- Case
- 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, Platinum
- Diameter
- 36mm
- Dial
- Silver, Champagne
- Crystal
- Acrylic